Hi all husqvarna 610/570 left side kick start models fans!!!
From the beginning excuse me about my English skills they are not in good condition, but hope you will understand me.
Would like to share my free time project with all you husqy fans. At this moment many things are done, some have still to do. Have a lot of pictures of project progress to show you.
In the summer of 2007 I bought 1998 year 610TE supermoto conversation.
Used it for Sunday fun street racing one season. Have to say I am tried many supermoto bikes built for street racing ride, this one is an excellent sample. Sure it has some imperfections.
But - beast power, nice handling and welcome design instead to some imperfections like slipping clutch, problematic cooling and unstable carb was the reason why I decided to rebuild it like wish.
First of all I started with the engine. Striped down existing one put the new spares (con rod, bearings, bushes etc), powder coated case etc. When the engine was close to finish I decided have to go to the oil pumper engine which has biger resource. The prepared old one I sold as spares and bought the hardly used from 2002 race SMR 570. The guy who sold it to me told that it is in “TOP ZUSTAND”??
But anyway I got in one time many good things like racing cooling pump, nox cdi, tc cam, vented right side cover, zupin clutch basket, oil pump crankcase, newer crankshaft and some valve stuffs.
on the gear and the spacer, I do not know how many mm should be on everyone.
I want to change the front sprocket and the rear does not know how much "teeth" I have to put (17-45, 17-44, 16-44-45) for instance, nor what the offset would be appropriate also for the spacer.
the key that fastens the engine must be identical to that of my machine. yours is the "FACOM"?? I'm right:thumbup:
If you will use 160 wide tire then the same sprocket offsets I have. Gearing definetely is up to you. I used 14 - 41. During ride will test three sizes of front 14-15-16. Feelings will tell which one the best at different types of ride, but hope the best will be 16.
On the kickstart shaft, the woodruff key that is held in place by a spring, can this get fatigued and make this key move out of its housing, causing the kickstart to malfunction??
What is wrong with your kick, empty stroke??
Due empty stroke there could be:
- woodruff wear
- damaged inner tooth surface on to the kick shaft sprocket - unlikely
- somehow lost or broken woodruff presure spring (small spring inside woodruff housing) - ????
- damaged woodruff housing (thinn outside wall ) - unlikely
Did you open the left side cover for inspection??
cheers
i have taken the left case off for inspection, and have noticed that the spring for the woodruff key is still there, cog and shaft ok. But i did notice some wear on the woodruff key and the guide plate for the woodruff key
:hmmm: pls explain how your kick can't work properly - whats happen when you start to kick it. Emty stroke, jam when start to kick or somehow else.
pm some picture if possible.
cheers
Now about controls:
Handle bar - leave existing Pro Taper (Easton series) fat-bar
Handle bar pad - Oem + Applied fat bar pad
Throttle - Gunnar Gasser quick throttle
Clutch - Zeta Flight Perch
Front Brake Master - Magura 190 series
Rear Brake Leaver - OEM (thinking about Hammerhead)
Foot Pegs - RocStompa Pro-Stomp Series
Hi all, hi KBA-Pro.
Nicely to see your progress with bike. its awsome.
i have a question about the valves. witch distance i should do in my husky te 610?:headscrat
I could hear 0,25mm and 0,30 but you are better source sory about my english
Hi all, hi KBA-Pro.
Nicely to see your progress with bike. its awsome.
i have a question about the valves. witch distance i should do in my husky te 610?:headscrat
I could hear 0,25mm and 0,30 but you are better source sory about my english
My engine is from 1993 year:rolleyes2: its 610 left kick start so as your with just one difference. My engine is model without oil pomp and filter. I am doing the entire repair on the basis of your photographs thanks for them
Last weekend mainly serviced my dirt CRF rear linkage and made new mor safety rad guards. But in spite of this little time left to play with my sm project as well. Started with the wiring, prepared the main line. Rear part of wiring still open issue.
NOX CDI.
To install NOX CDI in standart position is not posibble cause SMR and NOX frame has a little different angle bracket. Therefore I had to installed it up side down. To do this had to cut of the the middle reinforcement angles
Brake
As you can see before I left the oem brake master and working cylinders excluding front master cylinder. OEM components are powder coated.
In case to use Magura front master cylinder had to order longer brake line, decided to order both lines.
If someone has interest here is the recipe:
Front A-1460mm; L1-002; L2-017
Rear A-900mm; L1-006; L2-000, but can suggest L1-017 will fit much more better than 006, this was my mistake.
Contact Paolo because he sells through internet and also send the parts abroad in very reasonable prices (at least to greece...)
Hope this helps a litle
Last weekend had a little bit time to get little progress. Started with the different type of guards.
First one - installed radiator guards, left and right. To made them took the most time and waste stack of aluminum and cardboard sheets until get right design.
To keep save my hands and leavers from crashing cars mirrors purchased the guards from zeta. Small modification was necessary to adjust them for radial master cylinder.
Skid plate.
Rear master cylinder guard. Design came out with the first time.
For the front sprocket guard need your help guys. Can't choose which one looks better. These two are chosen from more than 10 design models. Can you rate them.
Hi KBA! I have a question, for cam chain replacement on my TE610 Motor (year 2001, with oil pump)
I just changed the cam chain, but do not know how to correctly position the teeth of the crown of the camshaft. With a stick I found the highest point of the piston, but I do not know how to respect the teeth of the crown! Got a reference for me to understand better and avoid mistakes for timing setting? Many thanks mate!!
Saluti!!!
- Cam lobes must see downward
- Free side (engine front) of camchain must be tensioned
- Cam sprocket is marked (punched) with small dot (see the picture) which must be aligned with the top edge of head
And so:
fix the crank in tdc, cam lobes downward, install the the sprocket together with the chain, slightly tighten the free side of chain and check the dot and head edge alignment. If necessarry via chain dropping over teeth (sprocket must be uninstalled) repeat the procedure untill will get the correct alignment. Install the chain tensioner. Few times fully turn the crank and check is the aligmnet still correct or no.
Ciao
Thats all.
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