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1998 Husqvarna 610 rebuilding project

226K views 412 replies 67 participants last post by  flynn_ 
#1 · (Edited)
Hi all husqvarna 610/570 left side kick start models fans!!!

From the beginning excuse me about my English skills they are not in good condition, but hope you will understand me.

Would like to share my free time project with all you husqy fans. At this moment many things are done, some have still to do. Have a lot of pictures of project progress to show you.

In the summer of 2007 I bought 1998 year 610TE supermoto conversation.


Used it for Sunday fun street racing one season. Have to say I am tried many supermoto bikes built for street racing ride, this one is an excellent sample. Sure it has some imperfections.
But - beast power, nice handling and welcome design instead to some imperfections like slipping clutch, problematic cooling and unstable carb was the reason why I decided to rebuild it like wish.

First of all I started with the engine. Striped down existing one put the new spares (con rod, bearings, bushes etc), powder coated case etc. When the engine was close to finish I decided have to go to the oil pumper engine which has biger resource. The prepared old one I sold as spares and bought the hardly used from 2002 race SMR 570. The guy who sold it to me told that it is in “TOP ZUSTAND”??
But anyway I got in one time many good things like racing cooling pump, nox cdi, tc cam, vented right side cover, zupin clutch basket, oil pump crankcase, newer crankshaft and some valve stuffs.





Later more

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#141 ·
Hi Junkies!!!
Sorry for so long quiet, had a lot of works with dirt bikes and at home as well. Also quite long period waiting for smr570 plastics set. Local dealer like usualy promise two weeks and in the end was very close to two month, but never mind now I have all plastics i need.

To install 570 body kit was necessarry replace the rear subframe. Get them used in ebay.co.uk. Significant difference between subs till 1998 and later is the width betveen rear fender fitting beams (outside). The old one has 206 mm and the new one 190 mm. Next one is frame the left side slope beam shape, old one is straight the new one with the hog foreseen for exhaust.







The best exhaust for engine I have - Akarapovič Full Titanimu Racing Line.









From aluminum rectangle made fuel tank subframe.





Fuel catch canister. What do you think about it???

PS:This is the last I made = very meandering work :headshake







 
#142 ·
That catch can is bad ass! :thumbup:

Much like the rest of the build.

We missed the build progress, glad to see you are continuing on. :clap:
 
#143 ·
Next one - Air filtering
I use existing filterbox, only thing I had to do is made hole to route separate air pipe for idle and main jet air circuits











For the new one filter box cover cutted the holes. Long time thinking what kind of screen material have to use where to get it. At the end destroed my old forest sthil helemet eyes visor:).





 
#317 ·
keihin fcr



Hi,i have been following your rebuild,its great,i have also just rebuilt my 570,i have just bought a keihin fcr41,could you recommend a starting point for the jetting and set up for this carb on the 570,as the one i have bought was fitted to a 510,i am running drilled airbox,full akro and 100mm piston@600cc,do you need the extra pipe to the airbox for this carb as you have done?,i cant seem to find any installation instructions,i am going to get a dyno set up but would like to get somewhere near so i can at least start the beast,any help appreciated,ps,love the stroker crank!:thumbup:thanks,kev
 
#144 ·
KBA, It's looking great! Looks like you're about done with the chassis. What do you have planned for the plastics/graphics?

Can you help me out a bit? I'm looking at a 2000 sm610s, what kind of similarities/parts compatibility would this generation (like your bike) with the newer 610's? Would I be able to use the same engine parts for maintenance/rebuilds? How about swapping the 2000 plastics for something off a newer generation 610 or maybe 570? Thanks!
 
#145 ·
Thank's!!
About plastics clear = from 570, got full set.
Grapfics = have no idea :headscrat. From beginning I had a plan to cover my old existing plastics with dinoc carbon film and I did it, but something with design there was not so good. Stupid rear numberplates (like aliens) , cant create design ideas. This was the main reason whay I decided to go to 570 plastics. The dinoc looks good but only if you add it just for details, you can check how it looks if you cover whole bike (check the MTquake husqvarna) :headshake.

About your bike questions will try to answer shortly:
- Yes from a distance both machines looks very similar, but in reality they are different (frame, swingarm, subframe, engine, filter box, seat etc.), excluding plastics.
- To put plastics from 570 or newer 610 will have to change a lot of frame parts
- Engines has some similarities = piston, cylinder head and gasket, friction clutch plates, carbs as you wish.
- I dont know for what kind of purpose you are ready to get it (sm610s 2000), but I am shure for one if this is something else than just a peaceful ride along the way, this is not the bike you need definetely.
 
#156 ·
For Foo

Found crank TDC by use special gauge, if havent can use simply screwdriver or something similar, but it will be dificult.



Put the cam in its place with the lobes downward (because in TDC all valves must be closed)



Install the sprocket together with the chain like in picture and slightly fasten it.
If necessary via chain dropping over teeth (sprocket must be remooved from cam seat place, cose no possible to drop over teeth when sprocket is in its place) repeat the procedure until will get the correct alignment. Then adjust the cam posittion to align the fitting holes and install bolts. Install the chain tensioner. Few times fully turn the crank and check is the alignment still correct or no.



The kee point is to keep crank in TDC durin installation, and paralley check how properly chain seat over the lower sprocket teeth
 
#159 ·
Main things was ready last autumn, but since last season was lost I am not speed up with the finishing. As wel as no one in particulary is not interested and I will not hurry.
As you know usually the small stuff remain and they always takes a long time to finish them. Slowly collecting the pictures of project progress. Hope soon will be able to continiue the threed.
A lot of time takes work under my web page as well.
 
#164 ·
Usually for the most of carbed bikes easy access to fuel mixture adjusting screws is really the problem, cause a lot of bike constructions interfere to do this.
Due to this made the last mods for intake. Created a-la "remote control" :D for fast online proper fuel mixture adjustment.







During last winter of-road sessions tested the mod for main jets, results was really good.

 
#167 ·
Research story with grips:)
Bought a new one pro-grips.



First of all cut the holes in the blind ends allows to install hand guards. To cut the holes used metal broomstick with the sharpened end edge - fit perfectly.



Started to "play=f...k" with the installation.
To degrease the surface of the grip I decided to spray simple brake cleaner on to the grip inner surface. Noticed that the grip rubber becomes slippery. Woow - great. Easy installed one grip for test. Few hours later when brake cleaner evaporate=dried was not possible turned or somehow else moved the grip on the handlebar even with both hands together, it keeps like glued.
Before this I tried a lot of methods (hair spray, wiring, glue, gasoline etc) for grips installation before, each of the methods has advantages and disadvantages as well, but this one is the best from my opinion.

Wonder STP :pimp:






Did you guys knows about that method before?? Sure have no idea will this method suitable for different manufacturers products.
 
#168 ·
Zeta hand guards are good but not so good that without additional guards construction adjustment could be used for fat bar with radial brake master cylinder. Therefore made different sizes and shapes spacers for bar ends and clamps.
Also each fat bar producer made different tapper angle, and it means what fit for one does not fit for others. Clamps inner tapper angle is slightly different from ProTaper. To solve this problem, paste leather inlays.
Now the guards keeps really good and can perform their functions properly.




 
#169 ·
Step by step about the measuring unit dashboard = Trailtech Vapor.

First of all homemade Vapor pad. From the beginning a little exaggerating with the count of the lightening holes, later decrease the count to keep necessary stiffness of construction, pay attention to the pictures will notice the difference.




I use the kit foreseen for Honda XR650R, cause it standard equipment meets requirements I need:
- mountable speed sensor to fork construction I have
- proper size liquid cooling temp sensor

The biggest advantage of this product is that you can use it with the AC and DC as well, without any problems.

Sure it has some lacks like has no oil temp reading possibility, no engine hour counter (accumulated riding time does not mean engine hours) , and no possible to read current engine coolant temp, at least I don’t know how to read it.
All other things are really good including price for sure.


Oh yes, dashboard for signal lightning necessary to order separately.














 
#171 ·
I wired it quite simply, you just have to find the power wire directly from the stator, usually it is yellow wire. If need pictures let me know will prepare for you for better understanding.
Ignition switch is OEM.
Sure if you're willing to pay for vapor mount manufacturing I can make it for you :D
 
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