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My New Husky AND My TERRIBLE Luck

83K views 298 replies 45 participants last post by  Op_Engineer 
#1 ·
So after all of your advice and insight I went out made my purchase of a 2008 SMR 510. I drove all the way down to Sacramento (500 miles) to get a bike that looked super clean and had semi-low miles (2,000). :bannana:

Here she is:





So I get back to my house on Sunday and I just had to take this thing out. Fire it up, let it warm up for a couple minutes, cruise through two miles of twisties and then hit a straight section….this is where I decided to open it up and see how fast it would climb through the gears compared to my Dizzer. I got it into 6th and started winding it up….80...85….90…93 BANG!!!! Rear tire locked up at 93 mph. I should have pulled in the clutch but I was white knuckled on the bars trying to control my skid. :headshake

At this point I had travelled a whopping 2.8 miles on my new ride (not counting the 5 mile test ride in California) and have just destroyed the transmission (so I thought). :damn:

I pushed the bike all the way back to my house and immediately drop the oil expecting some large shards of metal and some gear teeth. I didn’t get much of anything on the drain plug. So I ran a magnet through the oil and ended up with a good amount of fine metal particulate but nothing that says “your F’d”. Then I pulled the metal screens and they had a couple larger flakes but still nothing totally conclusive:




So then I got real excited and was hoping it was just a top end thing (crash into valves, etc…) so I pulled the spark plug and it looked perfect:rolleyes2::



As I’m staring at the plug my eyes drift to the bike which is still slowly trickling oil into a drain pan that is about it overflow. I recall these things only take about 1.5 quarts and the pan has at least 3-4 quarts and then THE SITUATION HITS ME IN THE FACE!:boxing:

I am willing to bet my connecting rod snapped off at the wrist pin and drove itself through the cylinder wall allowing all of the coolant to fill my case. I will try to pull the engine tomorrow and verify but in the meantime I NEED YOUR HELP. I have never owned a husky or a KTM or a Husaberg or anything that is not Japanese so any pointers would be fantastic. Last night I was searching the internet to find the cost of a cylinder, or top end kit, or tranny gears, or crank, or connecting rods, etc…….. I CANT FIND ANYTHING!!! Where do you guys buy parts? I was led to believe that parts for Husky’s were not too difficult to find…WTF? :headscrat

Anyway, I’m going to be asking a lot of questions and I hope that you guys can get me back on the streets as soon as possible. Thanks in advance for the support.
 
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#104 ·
I agree as I have not heard of any make complaints of vibration.

Quote from Jeff "I have never heard about vibration problems with the 530, but I have never personally rode one. The 530 in the RR was more based on the TC engine and did not even have a balancer in it."
 
#105 ·
Bearing Press

So the bike shop wanted $70 to press out bearings and then press in the new ones. I wanted a press so I went to the infamous Harbor Freight but couldn't bring myself to buy such a piece of shit press for $130 so I made my own. I picked up all the steel at a scrap yard and grabbed a 20 ton bottle jack for cheap. The springs are from an old trampoline....only cost $107 total and a little elbow grease and viola.....

And it worked like a charm....
 
#113 ·
luck

hard to believe you would go to all the trouble to rebuild and not rebalance. the bigger piston will weight more, thus it should be rebalanced. a different rod will also weight different. if you are going to do it right. and so you guys know, george at uptite has carillo rods for the 450, 510 and 610 in stock.
 
#114 ·
hard to believe you would go to all the trouble to rebuild and not rebalance. the bigger piston will weight more, thus it should be rebalanced. a different rod will also weight different. if you are going to do it right. and so you guys know, george at uptite has carillo rods for the 450, 510 and 610 in stock.
Is that what he rebuilds with? Are they one piece like Falicon and OEM? Who does balancing and what does it cost?
 
#116 ·
Hey i'm new to this forum and to my Husky 450 but reading how these events unfolded for you makes me a little worried. :p I just downloaded one of those repair manuals in the thread and am trying to learn as much as i can from your experience. Thanks for keeping it up to date! Looking forward to seeing how this turns out for you. Hang in there. :clap:
 
#117 ·
luck

my experience w carillo rods was in some seriously modified offshore race engines,. but i have seen the carillo rods in stock at uptite. george orders them in multiples, like dozens at a a time. not sure if you can order them direct from carillo, but wouldn't hurt to ask. balancing, do you want it on the money or just ballpark close ?? if i was spending the money on a new top end, crank rods, head work, valves, the cost and time to balance is small compared to your investment. i would ask george about the suzuki rod in the husky's ?? ; which came first, the 450 italian motors, or the drz 400 ?? I know which way i would go. but i never buy on price point.
 
#119 ·
my experience w carillo rods was in some seriously modified offshore race engines,. but i have seen the carillo rods in stock at uptite. george orders them in multiples, like dozens at a a time. not sure if you can order them direct from carillo, but wouldn't hurt to ask. balancing, do you want it on the money or just ballpark close ?? if i was spending the money on a new top end, crank rods, head work, valves, the cost and time to balance is small compared to your investment. i would ask george about the suzuki rod in the husky's ?? ; which came first, the 450 italian motors, or the drz 400 ?? I know which way i would go. but i never buy on price point.
Wait, what? Suzuki rod in a Husky? Did I miss some posts in this thread?

As far as the Carrillo rods go..yes they make a rod for us. But they don't sell a lower rod bearing. Now you can use a oem husky bearing but they do not sell tgem separate. Now I believe someone figured out that the lower rod bearing is the same on some Jap bike. JR was looking for it. Now I talked to some people that tested the Carrillo, falcon, and oem rods. There was no major difference on a stockish motor. The rod on our bikes is not a problem area.
As far as crank balancing. I was considering it, but after talking to the husky motor guru's the said unless you have a full built race engine its unnessarry. Afterall theses bikes have a crank ballancer already. Which helps. My bike is butter smooth. Interesting that the RR's don't have a ballancer
Link to thread about a KLX lower end bearing. Supposedly a KLX bearing is the same. But I'm waiting to hear back from the guy after he talks to his dealer.
 
#118 ·
As far as the Carrillo rods go..yes they make a rod for us. But they don't sell a lower rod bearing. Now you can use a oem husky bearing but they do not sell tgem separate. Now I believe someone figured out that the lower rod bearing is the same on some Jap bike. JR was looking for it. Now I talked to some people that tested the Carrillo, falcon, and oem rods. There was no major difference on a stockish motor. The rod on our bikes is not a problem area.
As far as crank balancing. I was considering it, but after talking to the husky motor guru's the said unless you have a full built race engine its unnessarry. Afterall theses bikes have a crank ballancer already. Which helps. My bike is butter smooth. Interesting that the RR's don't have a ballancer
 
#121 · (Edited)
Hooray for new parts:bannana:.....still not helping me with my current situation but I will be prepared for summer time.
Whatcha get??

Edit, guess I shoulda waited for you to edit your post with a pic :lol:
 
#122 ·
If anyone is watching this I just wanted to let you know that I haven't given up yet.

Paul @ GP cycles let me know that my crank IS salvageable. He is going to rebuild it once I figure out which route I am going with the 530 Kit.

Here is why I have to wait for him to rebuild it:
1. I am having the crank balanced....not a very small charge by the way (apprx $180)
- He cannot rebuild the crank before it is balanced
- He cannot balance the crank before I choose which 530 kit I am going to use (Husqvarna or GP Cycles) because they have different piston weights
- I am waiting for whichever option becomes available first. Then he will balance and rebuild.

Next, I sent Paul my Intake Cam and he is exchanging it for a "slightly" used one.

And finally...I got another new part in the mail. I haven't read one bad thing about it yet so I figured it would shave a few seconds:rofl:

 
#125 ·
No haha I should clairfy that if you put it on with the slave not bolted to the engine. That it will push the piston against the clip that holds it and crack your housing. I know your motor is out and like all of us are anxious to put new parts on and try it. Put it on. Best lever ever, just don't use it until the slave is bolted back up to the motor. Sorry for the confusion
 
#126 ·
Damn smart ass:rant:

Thanks for clarifying. Actually, I'm stock piling parts until I get the bike fixed. I'll probably even ride it a bit without certain performance parts so that I can tell the difference....however I'll only have about 7 miles worth of real 510 experience so maybe I should just start installing:lol:

Where you gettin the 530 kit for your rebuild? I need one now!
 
#132 · (Edited)
I had a set of '06 white tank shrouds ordered through Hall's from Motoplastics. I waited for I think a week or two and ended up having Hall's cancel the order cuz Motoplastics never got back with a response to the order.. :hmmm:

I like my Cycra Por-bend's but have been curious about the plastic/composite style. I've seen some other guys take spills on them and they hold up well, seeming to take the force from a hit and rebound back to original shape instead of bending like the aluminum ones sometimes (Not very often) do. Cycra makes some composite sets, and there are others as well. Not sure which ones I saw in action but they seemed to hold up
 
#133 ·
I had a set of '06 white tank shrouds ordered through Hall's from Motoplastics. I waited for I think a week or two and ended up having Hall's cancel the order cuz Motoplastics never got back with a response to the order.. :hmmm:
I'm not too surprised. I placed the order, paid through PayPal, never got a confirmation, about 3 days later I get a tracking number (not shipped but they started the process), it stayed that way for 4 days and then shipped. Big lack of communication but I can't really complain about the price
 
#135 ·
Back in Action

Not quite in action on the streets but I have finally recieved my parts. Thank you Juicehall for putting together my large order of random parts! All neatly packaged with part numbers:thumbup:

Also got my crank back from GP cycles. As well as a "new to me" intake cam with properly aligned sprocket.

And i have also recieved my 530 kit from Hall's Cycles. Thanks Jeff!




Today I got all the transmission/main bearings pressed in place without any troubles.

 
#136 ·
Has anyone ever pressed the timing gear onto the counter balancer? It is a pressed fit along with a locating pin. I'll probably heat the sprocket to about 225 and throw the counterbalancer in the fridge but any pointers would be helpful at this point.

 
#137 · (Edited)
:bannana::bannana::bannana:

And the rebuild commences!

You sound like you have the counterbalancer figured out. Use assembly lube to help it press on smoothly so the metal doesn't gall up on the mating surfaces. Make sure the hear is pressed on square to the shaft. If you want to double check, use V blocks or something similar to spin the balancer on and watch the gear for runout. But you shouldn't have any issues because you have a flange to press the gear against.

Double check the matching gear on the crank. It too is located with a pin, but the pin is only used for assembly and doesn't stay in the assembly. Just double check that the gear was pressed on in the right orientation and the alignment holes are aligned :thumbup:
 
#138 ·
looks a lot like my apartment with the new parts everywhere. did you have a factory rod put in the crank? I'm getting my crank from falicon this week. how tough were the bearings to do. will i need to use a press or can i use a bearing installer and hammer?
 
#139 ·
Yes, I went with the factory rod. You'll have to let us know how the falicon works out. The bearings were not too difficult at all. I heated the cases and some of the bearings just fell in place. The mains did take some good pressure from bearing press. I think that you will HAVE to heat the cases to get the mains in with a hammer/bearing installer. Maybe not but that was my experience.
 
#140 ·
Hey JR,

Good to know someone is keeping on eye on me here:D

What locating holes are you speaking about for the gear on the crank. I would hope that GP cycles would have checked that but I wasn't exactly impressed with my experience. Here is a photo if you can tell anything from this. I'm going to hold off on installing it until I can confirm that it is in the right location. Thanks for the help

 
#143 · (Edited)
I just looked closer at the pic, I can see the small locating hole on crank through one of the larger holes on the gear, 2 holes up from the small locating hole. In other words the holes aren't lined up..

I don't think there are any special exceptions where those holes wouldn't line up, but there may be something I don't know.. In reality, as long as the teeth are in the right position so that the counterbalancer can be in the right position, in reference to the crank. But the repair manual says to line up the dots on the counterbalancer and crank gears, but you can't if the crank gear isn't in the right position...:headscrat

Have you called GP?


Here is a 510 crank I had rebuilt, the gear was aligned with the crank by using a pin in the hole. I also had it welded for sake of mind because the gear had either been installed incorrectly during the first rebuild, or it slipped somehow. I don't think it was the latter because it was still a tight press fit. But comparing your pic to mine: the gear looks like it's in the correct position on your crank, I used the two teeth over the lower end pin to compare both pics. So you just won't be able to use the dots on the gears to line up your balancer when assembling.
 
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