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Engine complete tear down step by step with pics

33K views 43 replies 14 participants last post by  tls25rs 
#1 ·
Ok well it's time to rebuild my 06 510. It has a tad over 12,000 miles and never let me down. I figured I would give her a complete rebuild including a 530 kit. I took all the pics to use as a reference for assembly but maybe it will help someone here.


Do not pull on the oil line it is held in by the cam holders


Remove the cam holders. Do not mix them up but they are numbered 1-4


Set them aside for now.


Remove the 4 head nuts AND washers. You will need to turn the engine upside down to get the washers out.



Remove the cam chain tensioner
 
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#3 · (Edited)
Remove flywheel nut


Remove the flywheel


Attach all parts together in order



Remove the waterpump this will allow you to pull the gear up slide off the cam chain. Let it drop into the flywheel area.


Remove the two bolts on the left side of the head


Remove the two 13mm nuts on the bottom of the head studs. One fwd and one aft.
 
#5 · (Edited)
Cases split!


VERY IMPORTANT!! This shim must go back in. Pay close attention to it.


This shows the counter ballancer alignment.


Next remove the clutch cover and clutch and basket paying attention to the fat washer on the back


Remove the cover marking the order of the bolts


Cover removed
 
#6 · (Edited)
Pay attention to the orings there are two. One for the oil filter and one sitting in the oil pump


The nut is reverse threads. Right to loosen


Remove this little gear taking notice of the thin washer. Once the gear assembly from the crank is removed reinstall the gear


Remove the gear and spacers and attach together in order


Using a mallet lightly tap the crank out. Your done!!
 
#9 ·
No 530 yet. I'm sending the head off for inspection, the crank to have the counterballancer gear pulled. And installed on my new RR crank. Since they don't have a counterballancer.
And since I'm waiting I'm powdercoating the cases that matte black like my covers.

I'm also rebuilding a 04 450. The lower rod bearing went on that motor blowing the cylinder. So I'm giving my buddy my 510 cylinder and crank. But he is putting a new rod in my old crank.
 
#11 ·
  • Don't forget to put the crank spacer back on the STATOR side!
  • Also wise to inspect the oil pump and the transmission shift drum. They can wear out over time. Especially check the oil pump, it's a vital component to your engine.
  • When pulling out the transmission, start by removing the shift forks and their shafts. you can then CAREFULLY pull out the two trans shaft assemblies together, same time. Be careful not to lose any gears as some of the parts are loose and can slide off. Inspect transmission for unusual wear and damage. If it's good to reuse as-is, then wrap up the two shafts together as one assembly. Use plastic shrink wrap and they'll be assembled, protected and nothing will slide off.
 
#14 ·
Thanks Brian!!

This is the crank spacer. When you split the case it may be stuck to the bearing or may be sitting on the crank by the ballancer like in the second pic. That's a 04 450 that blew. I'm rebuilding that one too.

 
#20 ·
This is awesome! Anyone know if there are any big differences between how this 510 comes apart and how the 610 does?
 
#26 ·
I thought I should ad this as I discovered one missing from my motor yesterday. And at 15 bucks apiece, possible assembly without it, so I thought I would post it up. With the cases split the shafts holding the transmission fork can slid out causing the nub that sits in the shift drum to come out. This is a easy part to loose.
 
#27 ·
Ok to remove the counter ballancer bearing. You will need a pilot bearing puller. I bought this snap one one today. I will need to modify it but I worked ok. You must make sure the tool is centered on the bearing and the feet are even and flat on the case.


 
#28 ·
Just doing some odds and ends until the rest of the bearings show up. Notice the yellow stuff? It's a special type of non drying epoxy primer. I'm using it to prevent any corrosion caused by disimaliar metals. (steel bolt, aluminum case) I like how the fresh powdercoating came out.

 
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