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Huskvarna complete rebuild pic by pic (assembly)

44K views 49 replies 18 participants last post by  cjoecruz003 
#1 ·
First off not sure if I'm "allowed" to spell it huskvarna since that's super old school, but I'm doing it anyway so there!
Second of all... I have been dying to ride my hot rod for months now so I hope you true Huskvarna homies can appreciate the self control I had to slowly put this together and take pics at the same time. Anyway here we go...

First off I do hope if you are rebuilding your engine you replaced all bearings, seals, gaskets ect. So it goes without saying that all of the items were replaced good or bad. Cheap piece if mind. It also goes without saying that All bolts are installed using loctite 243.
I also wanta address a few important things before we start assembly.
The crank spacer. Hopefully you measured you crank before you sent it off for rebuild so they can press it back together to the same dimensions. If not you will need to do some measuring.
Ok these are the main bearing retainer screws. The flush ones are recommended. The raised ones might rub the crank, might not. I'm rebuilding two engines right now. One rubbed one didn't. So I just replaced them all you wil find this out when to install the crank into the right case.


Here are the primary shaft bearing retainer screws. They are very short. If long ones are used you have a good chance of them sticking out the back and causing the starter gears to lock up.

This pic shows what the long screw looks like installed.

 
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#27 ·
You mispelled HUSQVARNA in your thread title! :nutkick: Go fix that, and have Brian make it a sticky.

The steel vs aluminum drum choice: This boils down to performance vs. reliability. Steel drum will last longer, but aluminum drum is lighter and will flick/move a little quicker.

There are also Stainless steel valves in the '09-10 bikes vs. Titanium valves like the '07 and older bikes. If you want reliable street bike, go for Stainless. If you want performance, go for titanium. But go with an aftermarket single piece titanium valve.

a two piece valve means it started as two pieces, the valve head and the stem. Then the two are friction welded together. This makes them cheaper to manufacture (but also weaker) than a one piece valve. I'm not sure, but I assume the Stainless steel valves are two piece.
 
#28 · (Edited)
Jeff that's how the town where Husqvarna was originally spelled. I did that no purpose. It will be made a sticky once complete.

This section was made by DFECKLE on cafe husky and I'm posting it here with his permission.



I finished reinstalling the head yesterday, and I have a couple more observations about assuring the cam timing is correct. It turns out you don't need to mark anything before pulling it all apart--all the marks are there for you already.

There are already some marks on the cam sprocket. The TWO marks on the gear portion of the cam sprocket align with the line on the head to indicate TDC.

Here is the tricky bit I figured out. When at TDC, the OTHER marks on the gear portion of the cam sprocket align with the marks on the cam gears!! The thing is, you can't SEE them aligning at TDC--your vision is obstructed by the head casting. Here's how to use those marks.

1. With the cams out, get the cam sprocket and timing chain reinstalled with the front chain slider and tensioner installed. You probably don't need the tensioner installed for this, but I wanted the maximum accuracy when verifying TDC. With the spark plug out, put something with a long, smooth, thin handle (like an hex wrench) into the spark plug hole so it is resting on the top of the piston. This is your TDC indicator.




Carefully move the engine through a few revolutions to verify the TWO marks align with the mark on the head when the hex wrench stops moving upwards. When you are satisfied that the cam sprocket and timing chain are properly installed, move on to step 2.

2. Use the kickstarter to carefully inch the engine to just before TDC.




When you do this, you will see another mark on the gear portion of the cam sprocket come into view. If the TWO marks are at the 12 o'clock postion, then this mark is at about 2 o'clock. You couldn't see it before since it was obscured by the head casting.

3. Grab the exhaust cam and find the mark on the gear.




While holding the exhaust cam in your hands, mesh the teeth together with the cam sprocket at the marks.



The tooth on one is marked to mesh with the valley on the other.





Now, you can't FULLY mesh the gears at the marks because the cam isn't aligned with its recesses in the head. But, with your hands tilting the cam up a little, you can mesh the edges of the cam teeth. (confused, yet? Good thing I don't write instruction manuals!) When you're sure the marked tooth meshes with the marked valley, "walk" the cam down to its recesses in the head without unmeshing the gears.




You're rolling the cam gear around the gear portion of the cam sprocket until the cam rests in its proper place in the head.




4. Snug down the exhaust cam retaining caps.





5. Carefully turn the engine over with the kickstarter a few times. There should be no interference.

6. Turn the engine over to just AFTER TDC. You should still see the mark on the gear portion of the cam sprocket that aligns with the mark on the intake cam. This mark is at about the 10 o'clock position relative to the two marks.

7. Repeat step 3 with the intake cam.






Snug down the caps.




8. Turn the engine over a few times and put it back to TDC.


9. Remove the left side cam caps so you can reinstall the oil line.




10. Torque the cam caps.


There! Guaranteed cam timing!!
 
#29 ·
Jeff that's how the town where Husqvarna was originally spelled. I did that no purpose. It will be made a sticky once complete.
Ya, but we're talking brand here. Not the origin :D
 
#30 · (Edited)
Im gonna add a tad to that section.
Don't forget the new orings before you install the oil line

The cam cap TQ is 8.7 ft/lbs
Also on the waterpump side of the cam gears there are dots. They should be even with the head surface.
 
#31 ·
Now let's check the valve clearances
INTAKE .004-.006. .10mm-.15mm
Exhaust .006-.008. .15mm-.20mm

My valves were a tad out but if I went up on the shim they were at minimum so I left them. I did take some pics to show how easy it is.

Using a hook snatch the retaining clip out


Slide the rocker over to the side


Using a MAGNET pull out the shim. Easy as pie
 
#33 · (Edited)
Neutral switch spring and pin




Countershaft spacer. Grease it up and make sure the oring is still on the shaft.


New starter oring. This is a straight up bitch to put on.



Drop in the filter, put in the oring, and plug with new washer








Let's not forget the drain plug.
 
#34 ·
Well here it is in all it's glory!! 532cc's of all ANIMAL
I hope this thread can help others. I appreciate all that has helped me. sure hope it starts. Lol should be good for another 15k of straight up acting an ass! I learned alot rebuilding this engine and I'm glad I did it. I wonder how fast I can put another 15k on it..
If I had made any mistakes please feel free to correct them so others don't.



 
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#37 ·
Frank First off Proud of ya bro great job
seckond get that Oring off that big screem
it goes on the cover plate for the screen
there are 2 O rings on the cover plate
That's one bad ass motor
Haha thanks bill! I couldn't remember. I'll fix it today
 
#40 ·
Great write up and pictures --> some day I will have a husky -
2 questions-- what is the black coating on the piston skirt and what camera did you use --
 
#43 ·
getting there ...

I have 99% of the parts needed for rebuild - Thanks to this thread I'm "brave" enough to even attempt doing it on my own.

Lord, did I have a lot of problems taking those two bearings out omg, nothing worked, I ordered the same bearing puller, had to grind the arms a bit for them to fit then they broke off ... so today, very desperate and tired of failing ;) I had my dad weld the bearing puller arms to the bearings and VOILA ! those suckers are out !!! ( I hope I didn't mess up completely because ground cable wasn't secured very well and I cooked the case a little :X ) I'll show ya some pics - maybe I should make my own thread :p


Thanks for those picture by picture steps !


Take care


V
 
#47 ·
alignment marks on the oil pump

I am just beginning my bottom end rebuild on a sm610. I have not split the cases yet. I have a question about the marks on the oil pump and the marks on the counter balance gear. First the oil pump question. Why are there marks on the oil pump and how should they be realigned during assembly. Same for the marks on the counter balance gear do I just align the two marks or do the marks align to a mark on the case.

thanks
Jeff

p.s. congrats on your rebuild, it is a big job
 
#50 ·
Shift fork orientation. The one that goes on the primary side is the short rod and only one fork. The secondary side is the longer rod and two identical looking forks.

The one on the left goes in first. If not, it won't clear the bearing housing where the shift drum sits.

It's easier to leave the rods out until you put the top hot bushings on then the shift drum in. After that you can seat the forks in the shift drum and throw in the rod.

All three forks installed.
 
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