2012 KTM 450 SXF/SMR build
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Thread: 2012 KTM 450 SXF/SMR build

  1. #1
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    Default 2012 KTM 450 SXF/SMR build

    I hate calling this a build since I'm not building anything like other projects i've done, but I am "building" a bike. It's still a work in progress but I hope to race the bike this year at least a few times.

    After my first full year on a 450mx bike converted to an SM( and really only about 14months on a supermoto) i decided to make the jump. i wasn't happy with how my rmz was handling but i really didnt know better until I rode Gerrys 250sxf and it was night and day. I didn't push his bike hard but it handled so good I knew I needed something else. So out with the old(not really out just aside really for dirty duty).



    I bought it last December from a dealer in NC site unseen(other than 2 pictures). Hours Unknown and really condition unknown but they made me a great deal on it and much better than i was finding. I got it for a little over 5k delivered. I really wanted a ktm or the new 2013 crf. None of the honda dealers wanted my business or to sell me a crated bike so this was it. Having a new clean bike in known condition would have been great but this one turned out to be pretty good.... It looks like its been well ridden and had a number on the front plate so may have been raced as well. Suspension shop stickers, settings written on the shock res etc.

    Right after the dealer delivered it to me 3hrs away





    As soon as it showed up I started taking it apart(rode it for 10mins to make sure it ran). Cleaned everything, rejetted the carb, did some investigating on the rest of the bike to check for hours/condition. Im guessing it has between 30-60hrs on it. Peeking into the motor and the dirt inside the carb makes me think closer to the 40mark but again no idea. i found the right radiator looks like it had an impact, dirt caked in all the places someone who doesnt tear their bike down all the time but generally pretty clean. it wasnt even a year old so i would hope so.

    I found out(with no manual at the time) how much different KTMs are to take apart. The airbox thing is nuts. Thread forming screws into the tank for plastics, no jam nut on the front end(that one surprised me when i was greasing the stem). I was amazed at some of the stuff though. The header stock is feather weight!



    Not too dirty under the rubber tank issolator



    new plastics
    smr front fender
    Jet kit
    Hour meter
    hand guards
    graphics
    31lb rad cap
    safety wire jig
    Some renthal Fat bars in KTM hi bend
    muffler slider





    to start.







    Then I ordered the serious parts.

    Berringer 6 piston setup.





    Alpina/kite tubeless setup. 16.5 front, 5.5 rear



    Right now im trying to decide on the suspension. Ohlins ttx shock out back for sure, but i can't decide on the front. ttx inserts or full rxf forks. Im not fast enough to know the difference and im leaning towards the ttx inserts. It would be nice to have the stock dirt suspension around but i dont typically sell bikes so when this thing goes back to dirt it will still be around

    Hopefully by the end of march ill have the suspension sorted out, maybe a hinson slipper and get this thing on the track! Still need a lot of little parts, to safety wire everything and slap it together. I plan on keeping the motor stock for now. It pulls really hard and more power wont help me at the track if the bike doesn't handle well so thats my focus.
    Matt
    11 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    12 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    www.fastbikeindustries.com

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  3. #2
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    very nice where did the sweet parts come from?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Old View Post
    very nice where did the sweet parts come from?
    Dave at FBI(see my sig). Thats where the ohlins will come from as well. Best suspension guy around and just a great guy in general to work with. Alpinas took awhile cause i wanted black spokes but money is the hold up not parts
    Matt
    11 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    12 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
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    Been awhile but i finally am getting around to working on this bike.... I found a few more things i need to get/sort out and any input is appreciated.

    First Issue. I had originally planned to run ohlins rxf forks but my priorities changed a bit and decided to run this bike on the wp stuff for a bit. What are you guys doing about the fork guards? I dont like the wrap around ones(even though i got new ones). Are you guys just cutting them for clearance or getting ones from an SMR or what?





    Next issue. Mounting the 5.5 rear rim was a pain. I had to remove the rear rotor bolts and kind of pull the rotor off to the side to get the caliper in. is there another caliper to use, mod the swing arm casting where the caliper slide is, anything? I can do it but it would be nice every time i need to swap tires or rims if i run a set of rains that i dont have to pull the chain guide and rotor off, slide the rim forward, remove the caliper etc etc. if i have to i have to.





    On the other hand, the front caliper was easy to install even on the 16.5 rim. The oem rotor bolts were too long though and hit the rotor buttons. It would have been nice if berringer sent hardware with the parts but oh well.
    Matt
    11 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    12 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
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    Looks awesome so far! I am very interested in what you're doing as I want to do a similar build in the near future. I want to start with the MX bike so it can pull double duty.

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    Nice bike, although it´s a KTM

    Look at getting SMR triple clamps. They should be a bit wider (Husky SMR triples are 195mm spacing. It gives you more room for the front wheel. You´ll need a new wheel spacer then.

    What I don´t understand is: you want a sweet handling bike for Supermoto, but you haven´t done your homework on the chassis side. Are the SMR triple clamps the same offset as the SX ones? Why would you run a long swingarm on a Supermoto bike? Why a 5,5" rear wheel when almost everyone is running a 5" with a 160 tyre?

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    Actually I did do my research. 2012 sxf and smr have the same chassis and swing arm. Only difference is the triple clamp offset. 22mm on mine and 14-16 on the smr. I looked for factory smr bikes but this one was about half the price and only 3 used ones were in the states that i could find. Everyone said i could build a better bike with an sxf since there was no more custom smr chassis. I found out the factory smr uses the pre 07 non wrap around fork guards so i have those on order. i plan on running ohlins forks and shock so the only thing a factory smr would have done for me was wheels. No need to pay an extra 5k for a bike when all it gives me is 1k wheels in a size i didnt want.

    On the wheel issue i have now seen some images of machined/slotted rear caliper brackets so i might try that when i need to do a wheel swap next time. these werent on 11-12 non pds arms so i have to do some figuring to make sure it will give me enough. When i do that I will take pictures. Basically it allows you to drop the caliper in from the top rather than having to slide the wheel all the way forward with no axle to get the caliper in place, then bolt the rotor up.

    Also everyone was talking about how the 5.5 was the way to go for traction. All the ktm guys that were saying that stepped up from a 5" and talked about the improvement. Im running a 160-170 rear on the 5.5(depending on what tires, right now i have dunlops on the bike). I havent seen anyone suggest running a 5" bike if you can fit wider because it gives you a better rear profile and more grip. I ran a 5" on my rmz because that barely fit. Nothing wider without modding the arm or putting an sxv arm on it.

    The reason i havent done anything with triple clamps is because a few people said with the 16.5 front and the factory wheelbase that the sxf clamp feels pretty good(i dont know yet). If you run a shorter arm everyone goes with a lower offset. Until i can put an arm or even see if i need one(im no pro) then why spend the 2k on an arm and another almost grand on triple clamps. I dont mind spending the money and getting the good parts, but no reason to waste money on parts until I know how it handles and what has to change. I likely wont get triple clamps until i get ohlins on this bike.


    I was originally going to try and use this bike for dual duty but i think ill just keep my rmz in dirt trim or get another dirt only bike. Depending on the intention it could be done, but swapping all the bits over its just easier to run 2 bikes if you can
    Matt
    11 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    12 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
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    Another major difference between the SMR and SXF is the gearbox. The SMR has a mega tall 1st gear (not sure about the comparison of the other gears) to make it great for race starts and for riding tight and technical dirt sections.

    I think you will find you are going to need a set of supermoto triple clamps if you start to push the bike hard on the track. If you're going to all the trouble of getting the suspension sorted, you may find your front end still wanting to push and chatter without the triples. the '13 SMR's only came with 16mm fixed offset clamps instead of the normal 14-16mm ktm smr clamps. Mine was awful at 16mm but I have a shorter wheelbase than stock.. My husaberg was ride-able with 16mm (same wheelbase as your SXF) but it was night and day difference once I changed it to 14mm. Im now running 11mm on my SMR, and I know of a guy having faster laptimes from running 8mm. I cant imagine how sketchy the SXF 22mm clamps would be... eeek.

    If price is any issue, jump onto the german ebay site. There are cheap smr clamps popping up on there all the time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wierus View Post
    Another major difference between the SMR and SXF is the gearbox. The SMR has a mega tall 1st gear (not sure about the comparison of the other gears) to make it great for race starts and for riding tight and technical dirt sections.

    I think you will find you are going to need a set of supermoto triple clamps if you start to push the bike hard on the track. If you're going to all the trouble of getting the suspension sorted, you may find your front end still wanting to push and chatter without the triples. the '13 SMR's only came with 16mm fixed offset clamps instead of the normal 14-16mm ktm smr clamps. Mine was awful at 16mm but I have a shorter wheelbase than stock.. My husaberg was ride-able with 16mm (same wheelbase as your SXF) but it was night and day difference once I changed it to 14mm. Im now running 11mm on my SMR, and I know of a guy having faster laptimes from running 8mm. I cant imagine how sketchy the SXF 22mm clamps would be... eeek.

    If price is any issue, jump onto the german ebay site. There are cheap smr clamps popping up on there all the time.
    The factory SMR clamps(14-16) are only around $400 from ktm. If they are anything like the other smr parts i tried to order they will have to come from austria. Xtrigs a bit more but it will all depend on what i feel i need after riding the thing. The lack of front end feel cant be any worse than my rmz with its 22mm offset

    As far as tranny ratios go this is from my service manual for what its worth. I plan to gear it so i use 2-5th so i dont have to shift through N. My rmz is a 4 speed and there were several times i grabbed N going 1st to 2nd. Mainly cause of my stiff boots and the fact that i wear a 13...

    2012 SMR450
    1st 18:31 1.72
    2nd 20:29 1.45
    3rd 22:27 1.23
    4th 24:25 1.04
    5th 26:23 .88

    2012 SXF450

    1st 16:34 2.125
    2nd 19:31 1.63
    3rd 20:26 1.3
    4th 23:25 1.09
    5th 26:24 .92
    Matt
    11 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    12 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
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    Quote Originally Posted by shift1313 View Post
    The factory SMR clamps(14-16) are only around $400 from ktm. If they are anything like the other smr parts i tried to order they will have to come from austria. Xtrigs a bit more but it will all depend on what i feel i need after riding the thing. The lack of front end feel cant be any worse than my rmz with its 22mm offset

    As far as tranny ratios go this is from my service manual for what its worth. I plan to gear it so i use 2-5th so i dont have to shift through N. My rmz is a 4 speed and there were several times i grabbed N going 1st to 2nd. Mainly cause of my stiff boots and the fact that i wear a 13...

    2012 SMR450
    1st 18:31 1.72
    2nd 20:29 1.45
    3rd 22:27 1.23
    4th 24:25 1.04
    5th 26:23 .88

    2012 SXF450

    1st 16:34 2.125
    2nd 19:31 1.63
    3rd 20:26 1.3
    4th 23:25 1.09
    5th 26:24 .92
    Nice find on the ratios. I have hit neutral a few times mid race... not fun thats for sure.
    The xtrigs you can get for about $500, but then you also need a longer axle, a new wheel spacer and a disc spacer because the clamps are wider... so the price gets upto $800-$900 pretty damn quickly. At that price, the xtrigs are comparable to the Nuova Faor adjustable rake clamps (around $1000)

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wierus View Post
    Nice find on the ratios. I have hit neutral a few times mid race... not fun thats for sure.
    The xtrigs you can get for about $500, but then you also need a longer axle, a new wheel spacer and a disc spacer because the clamps are wider... so the price gets upto $800-$900 pretty damn quickly. At that price, the xtrigs are comparable to the Nuova Faor adjustable rake clamps (around $1000)
    Thanks for the info. I have looked at both clamps in the past. If i end up with 14-16 ill go with the factory ktm ones probably. I have seen the Nuova Faor ones and they look trick!

    As far as the ratios on the tranny go. I checked back to 08-09-10 smr and they all had the same ratio as the 12. My manual stops there so i dont know about the 13 since it was a new motor of sorts. I think the SXF 2nd-5th gear ratios look good to me. 1st is a bit tall but once geared for the track i can launch in 2nd If i find it to be a problem i can always swap gears out when i build the motor next year. Hours are unknown unfortunately...
    Matt
    11 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    12 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
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    The shorter the swingarm the more weight you are taking off the front, hess the need to go into the single digits when going with a swingarm that shortens the wheels base as much as 25mm to put weight back over the front.

    This seems to happen a lot with set up of supermoto bikes. You get more rear grip(shorter swing arm) but lose front end feel. So you have to put lower offset clamps.

    If I were you I would run the axle as far forward in the drop outs as you can, this took me a couple hours of changing sprockets/chain lengths and changing the jam nut to something without a shoulder. Then get clamps in the lowest offset you can find for the best price.


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    Quote Originally Posted by motobum View Post
    The shorter the swingarm the more weight you are taking off the front, hess the need to go into the single digits when going with a swingarm that shortens the wheels base as much as 25mm to put weight back over the front.

    This seems to happen a lot with set up of supermoto bikes. You get more rear grip(shorter swing arm) but lose front end feel. So you have to put lower offset clamps.

    If I were you I would run the axle as far forward in the drop outs as you can, this took me a couple hours of changing sprockets/chain lengths and changing the jam nut to something without a shoulder. Then get clamps in the lowest offset you can find for the best price.


    Thats the plan Im going to cut my chain this weekend and see how far forward I can get it for the upcoming event and go from there.
    Matt
    11 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
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    You should be able to move the wheel in and out without any hassle, there is a bit of a trick to it but fussing with it a couple times you will see..I have a shortened SMR swinger....which is just over 50 mm shorter than the sxf version, If I remember correctly....when I first ran with the shortened swinger I felt the front so much more I thought I was on a new bike....I run 12 mm offsets, my friend runs 8 mm offsets ... hard to tell the difference.....I also have another friend who runs 18 mm so I can compare easily (also shortened) I have run Dunny 170 all the way forward the bike is so stable and flickable its insane...sooooo no more Dunny 170 ! so I have just recently gone with a Michy 163, wider tire.... had to add a master link.. no matter what I did I couldn't get it to stop rubbing on something but now it feels like it requires some effort to turn in... mid corner stable as a rock...and to be honest no matter what I do when that big michy lets go its lets go... the dunny slid earlier but way more predictable...so back to Dunny's with the 165 which is a fraction narrower than the 170..... both wheels sets are 16.5 and 5.5 .....the 5.5 rear wheel allows you to get on the gas so much sooner as well when you have serious HP at the tire it helps it hook up...so in slippery conditions I will soften the rear compression so it will squat more taking the hit out of the tire...tips on the rear? take the alloy frame off the chain guide, cut it in half to its not covering the sprocket...take a round headed machine screw with the head on the inside with the nuts on the outside, grind down the edge of the bracket more to allow the sprocket to roll closer... ( this might be the difference between the years ) I have picts in the SMR section... My marchi's were a bitch to get right.. the excell lites (tubeless) with spokes were easier with spoke offsets..If you want close up pictures let me kn ow with your email and I can fire them off to you... that beringer break set up with the super aggressive pads are insane.. love that set up with the 12 mm master good luck ! you did your bike right.. some fine tuning and you will be passing guys at will....
    Last edited by brian; 06-28-2013 at 10:37 AM.
    Brian # 30


    KTM 450 SMR

    "Everyday is a good day" Just some days are better than others

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    Quote Originally Posted by brian View Post
    You should be able to move the wheel in and out without any hassle, there is a bit of a trick to it but fussing with it a couple times you will see..I have a shortened SMR swinger....which is just over 50 mm shorter than the sxf version, If I remember correctly....when I first ran with the shortened swinger I felt the front so much more I thought I was on a new bike....I run 12 mm offsets, my friend runs 8 mm offsets ... hard to tell the difference.....I also have another friend who runs 18 mm so I can compare easily (also shortened) I have run Dunny 170 all the way forward the bike is so stable and flickable its insane...sooooo no more Dunny 170 ! so I have just recently gone with a Michy 163, wider tire.... had to add a master link.. no matter what I did I couldn't get it to stop rubbing on something but now it feels like it requires some effort to turn in... mid corner stable as a rock...and to be honest no matter what I do when that big michy lets go its lets go... the dunny slid earlier but way more predictable...so back to Dunny's with the 165 which is a fraction narrower than the 170..... both wheels sets are 16.5 and 5.5 .....the 5.5 rear wheel allows you to get on the gas so much sooner as well when you have serious HP at the tire it helps it hook up...so in slippery conditions I will soften the rear compression so it will squat more taking the hit out of the tire...tips on the rear? take the alloy frame off the chain guide, cut it in half to its not covering the sprocket...take a round headed machine screw with the head on the inside with the nuts on the outside, grind down the edge of the bracket more to allow the sprocket to roll closer... ( this might be the difference between the years ) I have picts in the SMR section... My marchi's were a bitch to get right.. the excell lites (tubeless) with spokes were easier with spoke offsets..If you want close up pictures let me kn ow with your email and I can fire them off to you... that beringer break set up with the super aggressive pads are insane.. love that set up with the 12 mm master good luck ! you did your bike right.. some fine tuning and you will be passing guys at will....

    great info brian! BUT the non pds arm on the 11 and 12 is a bit different. The chain guide has no metal frame. There are threaded rivets on the arm and no nuts. just 2 screws that thread in through the all plastic guide. Also there was absolutely no way the wheel would go in the arm without the caliper off and the chain guide off. My hope with modding the mounting bracket is that I dont have to pull the rotor off every time in order to get enough room to remount the caliper. If i had a fixed caliper that bolted on rather than on the sliders it would be much quicker! I can take more pics when i work on the bike this weekend if you want.

    The dunlops i have on there are the sv/250gp tires they sell. no idea how they will work.
    Matt
    11 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    12 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    www.fastbikeindustries.com

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    You said theres no way you can get the wheel in without taking the caliper bracket off...have a go at putting the wheel in at an angle from the left hand side of the bike. Get the majority of tyre in first, then lever the back part in and the disc should slot into the caliper. This is how I do wheel changes on my ktms and its super quick, super easy and goes on without anyone helping. Give it a go, it might work...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wierus View Post
    You said theres no way you can get the wheel in without taking the caliper bracket off...have a go at putting the wheel in at an angle from the left hand side of the bike. Get the majority of tyre in first, then lever the back part in and the disc should slot into the caliper. This is how I do wheel changes on my ktms and its super quick, super easy and goes on without anyone helping. Give it a go, it might work...
    I will certainly try that. I tried every angle i could think of, top, bottom, left, right etc. On other bikes i have to remove the caliper as well but they mostly slide in from the back so its not so bad. the ktm has to slide in from the front which is where the pita is.


    Wierus, did you do this on the stock arm with a 5.5 or just on the shorter arm?
    Matt
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    Brian, here is the factory chain guide for the 11-12 bikes as far as i know. There are 2 holes on the back mount that i am assuming are for adjustment based on sprocket size.



    This pic really doesnt show anything since the rim is on but here is the caliper



    and chain clearance with the 5.5 and a dunlop 165 lightweight gp tire.

    Matt
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    Haven't done it with a 5.5 only a 5.0, was just a suggestion
    Your tyre clearance is better than my 5.0 with 165 metzeler and MTR swingarm :p

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    Quote Originally Posted by Wierus View Post
    You said theres no way you can get the wheel in without taking the caliper bracket off...have a go at putting the wheel in at an angle from the left hand side of the bike. Get the majority of tyre in first, then lever the back part in and the disc should slot into the caliper. This is how I do wheel changes on my ktms and its super quick, super easy and goes on without anyone helping. Give it a go, it might work...


    exactly great wording
    Brian # 30


    KTM 450 SMR

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    Holy feck you got tons of room looks like you have a mile to go my point is the same.....time to butcher
    the chain guide ill send you Picts to get an idea looks great though !




    QUOTE=shift1313;1588441]Brian, here is the factory chain guide for the 11-12 bikes as far as i know. There are 2 holes on the back mount that i am assuming are for adjustment based on sprocket size.



    This pic really doesnt show anything since the rim is on but here is the caliper



    and chain clearance with the 5.5 and a dunlop 165 lightweight gp tire.

    [/QUOTE]
    Brian # 30


    KTM 450 SMR

    "Everyday is a good day" Just some days are better than others

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    Nice build!

    Do you happen to have a few more pics of the RMZ as well?

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    Quote Originally Posted by studbag View Post
    Nice build!

    Do you happen to have a few more pics of the RMZ as well?
    of course i do











    I listed it for sale on TT but got no bites. I might list it here or just sell off the SM parts.


    Brian. Im not sure if it will give me more room to get the wheel in and out but im going to look at it again this weekend. There are no clearance issues once the wheel is in, just getting past the caliper that isnt working so well but id love to see pictures of yours and other setups. I have seen 1 where the inner chain guide mount was cut off but with the caliper in place that still doesnt do it for me as far as i can tell. maybe im missing something
    Last edited by shift1313; 06-29-2013 at 05:49 AM.
    Matt
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    Your RMZ just gave me a tenter......
    2005 KTM 525SXM - stolen
    2004 KTM 450/525SX Project.............

    Riding Game: 5 complete
    We're not here for a long time. We're here for a good time.

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    Ran into a few more headaches yesterday working on the bike I got the chain cut and moved the wheel all the way forward(with a little adjustment left) no problems there. Pulled the forks to get the wrap around guards off waiting for my old style guards to show. Installed my cycra pro bend guards..... Where the guards should be, the adjuster on the berringer lever hits when i pull the lever in. Bummer. I rotated the guards down a bit, the inner mount is already right against the bar mount and now with the forks all the way up the hand adjuster on top hits hand guard mount.... I found a spot where it all worked, barely. I also found out the end cap on the front axle has to be drilled for the ktm sliders. I popped it out thinking the sliders would work, nope. You have to have that cap on the axle but drilled for shaft. Not really big deals but they set back my limited time to work on the bike unfortunately.
    Matt
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  28. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by shift1313 View Post
    Where the guards should be, the adjuster on the berringer lever hits when i pull the lever in.
    Would adding a spacer between the guard and mount give you enough room for the lever?

  29. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by pineapplebrah View Post
    Would adding a spacer between the guard and mount give you enough room for the lever?
    Unfortunately no because the lever is much closer to the bar end side which won't move much.. and my lever wasn't adjuster all the way out either. Good thought though!
    Matt
    11 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
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    Quote Originally Posted by Wierus View Post
    You said theres no way you can get the wheel in without taking the caliper bracket off...have a go at putting the wheel in at an angle from the left hand side of the bike. Get the majority of tyre in first, then lever the back part in and the disc should slot into the caliper. This is how I do wheel changes on my ktms and its super quick, super easy and goes on without anyone helping. Give it a go, it might work...
    Quote Originally Posted by brian View Post
    exactly great wording
    It works.

    Its an up, cock the front of the wheel to the riders left so the rim clears the caliper, and lift out. Works fine on my ktm and I have the TM Designs guide which is thicker then the stock one. I did have to shave it down a little to clear the tire while its on the bike but its still thicker then the stock one.

  31. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by union View Post
    It works.

    Its an up, cock the front of the wheel to the riders left so the rim clears the caliper, and lift out. Works fine on my ktm and I have the TM Designs guide which is thicker then the stock one. I did have to shave it down a little to clear the tire while its on the bike but its still thicker then the stock one.
    What rear rim are you running? I looked at your thread but didn't see a size. The marchs have more spoke clearance.
    Matt
    11 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
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  32. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by shift1313 View Post
    What rear rim are you running? I looked at your thread but didn't see a size. The marchs have more spoke clearance.
    When I stop by the shop Ill try to remember to see what the width is on the rim with spokes.

  33. #31
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    I got a few more parts in and snapped a few more pics. I got the new fork guards in and on. I was pleasantly surprised that they were already notched for tire clearance and rotor bolt clearance. Only thing i have to do is make some more room for the brake line.

    Here are the hand guards and the clearance issues. Everything is adjustable and free, but close!





    Unfortunatelyl my black bars were on backorder for ever so i canceled them and im going to run with these stock bars for now. When i do get new bars after I ride it I will make sure i get something a little wider in the bar clamp area. Since these bend right after the clamps it puts things in a bind.







    Once im 100% happy with the brake line routing and setup ill bleed the front brakes.

    i still have to mount the hr meter, mount the catch can. work out the chain guard and safetywire. then hit the track! I can't wait to ride this thing and see where else i need to dump money into it!
    Matt
    11 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    12 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
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  35. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by motobum View Post
    you need the low profile shields immediately..
    ? you talking about the hand guards? they are coming back off and just the bar and the skids are staying on. they are too big and not needed for the track. But i wanted to bolt them on to see for sure
    Matt
    11 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
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  36. #34
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    I got rid of those white fork guards pretty quick. First white on any race bike is a no no for me. Gets dirty too easy. Especially on a bike that is going to see some dirt. Second they are pretty flimsy. I bought a set of acerbis fork guards in black. They are much more ridged. I felt more comfortable with the brake line staying in the place I wanted it to with them. The bitch of them is you need to cut your own notch for tire and wheel clearance (sharp utility knife) and you have to remove the forks to get them on.

    I think I might have to get a set of wheels in orange now

  37. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by union View Post
    I got rid of those white fork guards pretty quick. First white on any race bike is a no no for me. Gets dirty too easy. Especially on a bike that is going to see some dirt. Second they are pretty flimsy. I bought a set of acerbis fork guards in black. They are much more ridged. I felt more comfortable with the brake line staying in the place I wanted it to with them. The bitch of them is you need to cut your own notch for tire and wheel clearance (sharp utility knife) and you have to remove the forks to get them on.

    I think I might have to get a set of wheels in orange now
    The white on my last bike were fine. As far as flimsy I don't know yet but ill keep that in mind. I have 2 sets of the factory wrap around style and I don't want to run those. Is that what you are getting aftermarket?

    Did you check your rim size?
    Last edited by shift1313; 07-06-2013 at 04:46 AM.
    Matt
    11 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
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  38. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by shift1313 View Post
    ? you talking about the hand guards? they are coming back off and just the bar and the skids are staying on. they are too big and not needed for the track. But i wanted to bolt them on to see for sure
    ya take off those huge shields off the hand guards and put on the low profile ones that cycra sells.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  39. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by shift1313 View Post
    The white on my last bike were fine. As far as flimsy I don't know yet but ill keep that in mind. I have 2 sets of the factory wrap around style and I don't want to run those. Is that what you are getting aftermarket?

    Did you check your rim size?
    Ya I got a pair of after market ones. I dont have any good photos of them but Im sure you get the picture I just never liked white. When I first started road racing I had a white suit. Its pretty my asphalt grey now. I could never keep white looking good.

    I havent checked the rim yet. I have to go to the shop either later today or tomorrow to do a little work. Ill check then.

  40. #38
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    ran the regular pro bend guards for a while and didn't have any clearance or fitment issues.

    as far as the brake line goes, I run mine on the inside, no rubbing as long as you properly secure it. can wrap some tape around the line to get a tighter fit between the line bracket on the guard, that way it definately won't work it's way loose.

    I've been running the older style fork guards on all my bikes and never have any issues with the brake line or them being flimsy. wouldn't even surprise me if they were actually made by acerbis since that was brought up. genuine KTM plastics are sourced from all over, usually polisport and acerbis. those wrap around things are just a pain in the ass, they're the first thing I get rid of on any new bike.

  41. #39
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    skully, My clearance issue with the guards is that i dont think my line will fit. the holder on the guards has a "pinch" area that i think is too tight for the line that came with my berringer kit because the line is fairly rigid at the point where it needs to be pinched. Im just going to remove some of the pinch so it wont damage the line. I was thinking about routing it inside next to the wheel cause i have seen others like that. This is exactly why i havent bled the brakes yet. Skully what bar/bend do you run? Also do you run the berringer master cylinder?

    motobum, im not going to run any plastic on my hand guards, just the aluminum. I dont really see/have a need for them but i just wanted to see how they looked on the bike. they are too big for sure but i will keep them around for any colder track days i do in oct/nov. there were a few days it was sub 30f when we were on the track and my vented gloves sucked!!!

    Ive never had any issues with white. I have white plastic off road/dirt bikes and they stay pretty clean. I use honda spray polish on the plastics and it makes a waxy film thats easy to clean. plus plastics are cheap
    Matt
    11 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    12 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
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  42. #40
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    Sorry for the delay but work has been crazy last couple of weeks. My rear wheel is a 5" rim.

  43. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by union View Post
    Sorry for the delay but work has been crazy last couple of weeks. My rear wheel is a 5" rim.
    Thanks. So nobody yet with a 5.5 on an unmodified non Pds arm. I haven't pulled mine back off but might this weekend to sort out the chain guard.
    Matt
    11 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    12 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
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  44. #42
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    its been awhile but last weekend was the first time i got to the track with this bike. It had a rocky start. The bike didnt want to idle at first. I knew the carb was good but there was still some old gas/stabil in the tank im sure as i couldnt get it all out. So the first laps were with dirt section and the bike not running right. After a few laps i noticed the gas cap was peeing out gas! I pulled the gas cap apart and inspected everything. No issues there. put it all back together tight and no problems for the rest of the day.

    Bike ran great and handled amazingly. Just for comparison i did a few laps on my rmz. I don't know how i rode that bike. Even without pushing it on the ktm i was faster on it than i could ever manage on the rmz. I didnt seem to have any issues with chatter, or grip(again i wasnt really pushing it hard). So far I am very happy with the bike. I need to work on the suspension for sure. I tried playing with the clickers but didnt get much better. Too much rebound. I was also surprised to see no evidence of chain rub on the tire or rim. I used a 500exc chain guard cut up as a little protection but the chain never hit that either.

    here is some video from the day.

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uP6fS...a47veA7Q6ro6Og

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UiRug...a47veA7Q6ro6Og

    http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JfQJFvbAE3E
    Matt
    11 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    12 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    www.fastbikeindustries.com

  45. #43
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    Bike's looking good. Came across this doing some research for trans. gear ratios.
    '06 CRF 450R street tard / '09 Husky SM450R / CR500AF Sumo - Current
    '04 KLX110 / CR500AF MX / '08 GSXR 1000 / '03 GSXR 1000 - Current
    '06 YZ 250 / OEM CR500 Steely / '15 KTM EXC 500 - Current
    '95 CBR900RR / '99 R1 / '03 R6 / '04 GSXR600 / (2) '02 GSXR1000 / (2) '05 636 -Sold
    '70 SL125 / '85 KX80 / '90 CR125 / '97 RM125 / '01 CR250 / '02 YZ125 / '05 RMZ450 - Sold

  46. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by rrrr1rob View Post
    Bike's looking good. Came across this doing some research for trans. gear ratios.
    Thanks! I haven't been able to ride much but when I do ride I love this bike.



    Matt
    11 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    12 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    www.fastbikeindustries.com

  47. #45
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    came across this thread searching google for something This bike is up for sale in dirt trim fyi if anyone is looking to build one. I just rebuilt my 2011 and the SM parts will be on that one.
    Matt
    11 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    12 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    www.fastbikeindustries.com

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