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What's wrong with the clutch? LUCKY I WASN'T ON THE FWY!

7K views 30 replies 5 participants last post by  GROOVY2 
#1 ·
I had to take it back to the dealership to fix a few things from last time.

The input shaft for the clutch doesn't spring back. LUCKY I WASN'T ON THE FWY! I was on a small street so I was lucky there was only one car behind me going slow. The adjustment screw at the handle bar also has been backing in on it's own from vibration. New part. I think this was installed when I got my clutch adjustment or a new cable. I think it is the wrong size threads?:hmmm: It did this before but not even close as often as it was in just one day!

It seems like the clutch cable stretched to???? I put the adjustment screw all the way out and it still wouldn't move the input shaft much.. Very strange..


Is this a clutch plate and spring problem (for the input shaft not springing back? The dealership guy said it could use those to get it into N when stopped but I could get in N rolling to a stop.

The clutch plate spring thing was like $300! :rant:
Wondering why the clutch input shaft is not springing back?

 
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#2 ·
the returning lever to me sounds like springs, or maybe the lever itself. The clutch springs have plenty of force to spring the lever back. also the bolt holding your lever isnt flush with the lever surface. Is it crossthreaded? maybe its causing the issue.

your clutch adjustment should have a lock ring on it. If you have an oem clutch cable the lock ring should thread and tighten down on your clutch perch and nothing should move.

do you have pictures of it?
 
#3 ·
I put the electric tape inbetween to prevent it from walking into the throttle lever. It is not enough to stop it from moving, it needs a piece of copper pipe or something. I feel it is not the right piece because it didn't move that much before..
I got a new clutch cable installed with the throttle cable.
Maybe they bent the bolt on clutch input shaft piece because it was flush before.

I also had to bring my bike back after getting the new tires installed on SAT. It felt like something was loose in the front. There are two allen bolts that hold the front axle thing on to the forks on each side. I looked at the gap and one was slightly wider. They fixed it and it felt solid after that..

Now the clutch shaft piece is the issue, doesn't spring back.. And the clutch adjustment screw moving into the lever piece extremely fast (threading is too thin I think).

 
#4 ·
+1 on what dpelt73 said -


check to make sure clutch Arm has not rotated on shaft -

bolt looks all f uped --
 
#5 · (Edited)
Its a pinch style clamp so the diameter is going to change as its tightened and make the bolt head appear crooked but it doesn't look cross threaded. More like the splines are gone causing it so pinch further also explaining the movement on the arm and loss of clutch actuation and cable movement. Check the arm and the shaft for the clutch arm. If its fine, when you put it back on rotate the slack out of the cable with the adjuster on the lever midway or closer to fully in. Or do the same with a new one.
 
#6 ·
Clutch arm is not rotating on the input shaft on the case.
I adjusted the adjustment screw on the lever and it pulls the clutch arm correctly.
It is just that adjustment screw "walking" extremely fast and the input shaft not returning to it's original position. :hmmm:

I hate it when my bike has issues like this. I'm still waiting on my trucks engine swap- should be done in two weeks. It's been like 8 months! :lol:
When the bike is in the shop, I'm literally on a bike. Luckily, I live close to everything, lots of restaurants, and grocery stores.
 
#7 ·
The arm needs to be adjusted on the shaft. Thats why Its not returning and the cable is loose. Sure looks like that form the pictures.
 
#8 ·
when you take off the clutch arm on the shaft at the motor. turn the shaft as counterclockwise as you can. then when you put the arm back on, have the cable in it, and try to put it on the shaft as clockwise as possible to take out all the slack in the clutch actuator.

is your adjuster at the clutch perch turning in on its own quickly. or actually skipping threads? the first means your lock nut is not tight. the second means a new clutch perch and/or adjusting bolt and locknut.

i wouldnt go back to that shop you went to again. If they can't get a front axle pinchbolt right, I wouldnt trust them with anything else.
 
#9 · (Edited)
I have it at the shop. Need my truck back, then I would feel better taking it apart myself.
I noticed paint missing right on the edge of the case where the clutch arm is before I brought it in. Forgot to mention it not that big of a deal.
It is a BMW/Honda dealership they service lots of S1000RR and GS1200 but I don't see many of these bikes just saw one xchallenge once there. I think the guy that worked on it didn't have much experience on these bikes. The cable placement being angled forward, if I had handguards they would have probably gotten in the way.

The guy told me the threads were stripped on the input shaft for the clutch. I'll take a pic of it when I see it. So I need a new one and bearings.. About $270 + $110 labor.. :headshake
Seriously though, a motorcycle mechanic is a very important job much like a aircraft mechanic. For this critical part I feel better taking it to the dealership hope they do a good job and have a few mechanics check off on the work.
 
#10 ·
He should've really noticed that while replacing the cable. But I agree with you that our bikes don't come through shops very often. I've been at haps cycles for almost a month now and we haven't had any singles in. We had one 650 twin, a few s1000's, and lots of 1200gs's rt's cl's and k75's. one of the Honda guys who's been working here for like 8 years has never seen my bike.
 
#11 ·
The service guy said there was only 7 clutch disks in there and there is supposed to be 8.
I got the bike with 5K on it. I'm at 20K mi.
I've only taken it to the dealer and the only other place was at a shop to do the chain and sprocket, same place I got the Rizoma grips installed since they're a distributor for them.
Anyhow, with the input shaft and clutch plates and installation- $700.:headshake
Will take a pic of the gear on the input shaft.
 
#16 ·
Seriously time to buy some tools and a manual and stay the hell away from whatever shop youre going to.
 
#17 ·
Clutch arm is not in correct position on rod -
reasons could be stripped or in wrong position for some other reason -- stupidity usually --
Bent Clutch push rod -- maybe -- check rod for straightness - Any bend it needs to be replaced --

( i dont think a MC would even Move at All with one plate missing )
 
#22 · (Edited)
F where have you been. I need to download some programs I can't even open up word right now. I need to use notebook.


Well this shop is Hollywood Honda closest BMW dealership near me. More convenient.

The Alhambra one is BMW only and sell cars to but they're pretty far. They actually referred me to the Hollywood place because I needed a place closer. Maybe I should go there again.

It did sound pretty strange disks missing. Usually when things are missing they don't work. I wonder if they even changed the clutch disk. They have a note on the work order to save the old parts. Will take a few pics for you guys.
Just called, said I went over the bike with mechanics and there is 7 instead of 8 disks. Service rep said they were warped are in the process of install. I was gonna cancel that install.

If the disk is not warped, then a good shop would call back and say there is only 7 you don't need them.
Course they could always heat them outside of the engine to make them look warped. The only reason I said ok was because he said there are a set of disks missing. Would have also if he would have said they were warped.



COST:

$271 clutch disk set + $110 labor (oil change included).
$271 clutch operating shaft, release bearing, release fork + $110 labor.
Gave me a discount.
((Maybe a new gasket as well for the clutch housing..))
$700 total.

At what mileage do the wet clutch disks usually get replaced?
 
#23 ·
depends on how you ride. I had a cbr600rr that I never wheelied or slipped the clutch and never even thought of replacing it. sold it with 13000 miles on stock clutch.

I slip the clutch on my moto all the time. especially doing tight trails. 1st gear is too tall for slow riding so i slip it a lot when in slow trails. almost 9000 miles and clutch is still ok. If you dont slip your clutch i think 20,000 miles should still be ok. The guy's bike i'm working on with 50,000 miles looks like he has some sealant around his clutch cover. friction plates were probably replaced already.
 
#26 ·
i havent had to touch the clutch cover gasket yet. the alternator gasket is a regular honda cover style gasket and is pretty heavy duty. some of the bigger K-bikes have metal cover gaskets now. I'll remember the silicone for when I do see a crappy little gasket, in fact honda has some really good gasket maker.
 
#28 ·
Got the bike back a few days ago.
I'm able to put it in N at a stop. The clutch lever springs back and it is very light now.

The dealership could not show me the clutch input shaft and gear because it was "lost or swept away a few days ago". I called twice and on work order asked them to save all parts..


They said the friction plates were warped. Slight gap makes a big difference. Bearing heat, slight friction. Blue on one side.
Here are the pics of what they saved. The clutch has 80-90% left is what the mechanic said but they only sell it as a set and not individual pieces.





Here's a pic of the intercooler design that's finished.
 
#29 ·
glad you got everything sorted out. you might be able to get some money back. you specifically asked for your old parts back. shops have to keep all old parts on hand for a certain period of time wether you asked for them back or not. It's against the law not to give you your parts when you asked for them. Who knows, they might have messed up your clutch the first time and had you pay to have it fixed again.
 
#30 ·
Thanks for letting me know about them having to save the parts. I lost faith in the shop after that.
I will just take it to another BMW dealer when it needs something else done or I'll do it myself if it's simple.:thumbup:
 
#31 ·
I was a MC mechanic for 12 years and I Always saved the old parts for Every bike--
parts were put in a plastic bag and attached to bike --

I never cheated anyone and built up a reputation as a Good Honest mechanic and it payed off -
customers would ask for me by name to work on there bikes --

Threw the years I did work for a couple of shops that were not upfront with there customers-
as soon as I figured out that the shop was shady -I would move on --

There is Plenty of work out there for a Good Honest mechanic in any field --
 
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