Stubbz Dream Sumo Build 13 WR450F :)
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Thread: Stubbz Dream Sumo Build 13 WR450F :)

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    Default Stubbz Dream Sumo Build 13 WR450F :)

    Here it is guys, after having 2 X's fully built to the roof it was time to make the step up to the big boys. found this gem i picked up yesterday, already has the FMF pipe and the GYTR Competition ECU on it. They did the titleing threw South Dakota so he just has to payoff his thing and he'll get the NY title for me so the hard part is done. Came with spare 42 rear sprocket and a front one, brand new in package Tusk wiring kits to add the switches to it and brake light etc. I just run everything and wire it up but sure that wont be bad. 288 Miles still has the throttle stop screw on it, i'll be cutting that short very soon!






    Wheres cheapest but best fastest turn around for ordering wheels lol.
    Last edited by Stubbz; 10-06-2014 at 05:45 AM.

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    Yup, subbed for this one.
    2008 wr250x (sold)
    Saving for a 2012+ wr450

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    This ones gonna be a fun build, i can already see a few things that will be very tricky for how i wanna set it up with rear stunt pegs and a foot loop etc, not sure how im gonna swing that one without a custom subframe but this one will see far more dirt also so i dont want it all open. Stay tuned, trying to figure out where best place to order wheels from is and what differences in all the front brake adapters i see. Anybody got thoughts on that stuff?

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    motoXindustries treated me right! I purchased through their Ebay store to insure quick shipping. I'm jealous, thats a nice bike!

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    I thought there was a set on here for cheap,with cush .

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    i saw those actually, gotta figure out what all companies do them to price check i guess. those ones werent really my color, think i want black spokes, blue hubs, and white rims.

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    any thoughts on where best place to order wheelsets would be, not to concerned on cheapest but would like them quickly. i want to stay with the 4.75 rear for a 150 so it balloons out a bit vs being flatter on the 5", more for circles and such so it dips in easier, hated the 150 on my wr250x with smaller rim because of that.

    Whats the difference with the cush drive vs others. is that something you would want for a streetbike or does it matter.

    know whats difference in the brake bracket pieces ya need for 320 rotor and which rotors may be ones to steer clear of? Are all the brackets the same, i see rotors are a bit different in prices dependin on what ya want. any brands to stay away from?

    once i can answer these questions i can order away and the rest will come easy i think lol. First objective, remove that damn screw if i can find the tool to do it. got gytr ecu so i should have the screw, seller thinks he knows where its at to send me tho so i dont have to guess at choppin.

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    There's a built in throttle stop in the throttle body. The shorter screw is just to plug the hole and keep it clean.

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    Way ahead of ya, he had the ecu kit that came with the bolt to put in but i gotta see if its in my box at home or if he has it but ill probly tackle that tonight

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    Ah found your thread! Subbed. Great base to build on. I wonder why he installed the GYTR comp ECU but not the included throttle screw?

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    Quote Originally Posted by erode View Post
    Ah found your thread! Subbed. Great base to build on. I wonder why he installed the GYTR comp ECU but not the included throttle screw?
    He wanted to wait until the first oil change at 600 miles to do it.

    Shaved my seat down last night, spent a bit of time doing it. did most of it with a 4.5" hand grinder with an 80 grit flap wheel. Was quite sketchy not to take off to much at once if it caught but it looks factory now i just need to cover it and i should have some material at home to do so. Not much foam under me now but i can actually ride it comfortably and the seat is like a 2x4 anyhow so lil less foam wont bother me, its probly more comfortable now the way that i rounded it all.
    Last edited by Stubbz; 09-17-2014 at 05:41 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stubbz View Post
    He wanted to wait until the first oil change at 600 miles to do it.

    Shaved my seat down last night, spent a bit of time doing it. did most of it with a 4.5" hand grinder with an 80 grit flap wheel. Was quite sketchy not to take off to much at once if it caught but it looks factory now i just need to cover it and i should have some material at home to do so. Not much foam under me now but i can actually ride it comfortably and the seat is like a 2x4 anyhow so lil less foam wont bother me, its probly more comfortable now the way that i rounded it all.
    I used a long skinny belt sander to shave my seat, it was kind of like carving a sculpture except that foam gets everywhere. In hindsight I wish I took more off of the front. To be perfectly frank, it hurts my balls. Do you have any pictures of your seat after the shaving? I might just buy a Seat Concepts "low" seat though.


    Oh, and +1 to MotoXIndustries. I went on their eBay store and found the set that made sense for me and bought a set. I paid a little extra for fast shipping and it showed up in 2 business days. A shitload better than the horror stories I've heard about 4-6 week wait times through Motostrano, because they [apparently] don't stock anything.
    '14 WR450F
    Warp 9s, YamaLink, 2Bros slip-on, GYTR Comp ECU, TT Vapor stealth

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    Quote Originally Posted by erode View Post
    I used a long skinny belt sander to shave my seat, it was kind of like carving a sculpture except that foam gets everywhere. In hindsight I wish I took more off of the front. To be perfectly frank, it hurts my balls. Do you have any pictures of your seat after the shaving? I might just buy a Seat Concepts "low" seat though.


    Oh, and +1 to MotoXIndustries. I went on their eBay store and found the set that made sense for me and bought a set. I paid a little extra for fast shipping and it showed up in 2 business days. A shitload better than the horror stories I've heard about 4-6 week wait times through Motostrano, because they [apparently] don't stock anything.
    I will post pictures tomorrow of the seat, forgot to snap some last night but i think its awesome now, it looks odd being so low but my 250x had the step seat so im used to sitting down into the bike a bit more and im a short guy so i dont feel all that cramped. I just ordered a nice 5/8" thick gel pad to put on my seat when i do recover it so it should be a bit more comfortable probly even more so than stock cuz that was hard as a rock.

    I wanted to go with the cush drive but im not paying another 500 for that, 1500 without tires and tubes is just fuckin rediculous in my opinion. Shit id rather just buy marchesinis at that point. t5hink ill stick with the $1100 warp 9's

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    Sub'd.
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    Well i got the stupid throttle stop screw out and cut it to proper length, took the bike for a ride around and its just awesome, so much power its incredible, completely know why ive wanted one of these bikes for so long!!

    Well my main issue with this 450 is im a smaller guy short legged and especially with dirt wheels it's a massive bike to try to stand over, so my first objective was to cut the seat foam down to where it would be more comfortable to me and at same time make it feel more like my wr250x with the step seat so heres what i have done.

    Spent a couple hours friday night shaving my seat way down and rounding it and smoothing it out.



    Nice step and all smoothed out, spend hours making sure i did this all right. Did it with a 4.5" hand grinder with an 80 grit flap wheel on it, was lil sketchy cuz it would take off a lot if you let it. Got most of that done then smoothed it out more with my die grinder with a smaller sanding scuff wheel on it.
    Last edited by Stubbz; 10-06-2014 at 05:40 AM.

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    it helped a lot with how low i did it but it felt really hard cuz there was only half inch or so of foam left, so i decided to order this awesome 5/8" thick gel pad from a company on ebay, i'll post the link also as its a great add on for any street use supermoto.

    Here is the gel pad sitting on top of what i already shaped.





    It seemed like it was going to defeat the purpose of cutting it low so i decided to chop out more of the foam to set the gel pad down into it farther, thats why you can see the black marker line just under the pad.

    I ended up cutting out most of the entire foam and left some of the trimmings around the edges to help level it out.

    Started to cut lower foam out


    Bit more lower foam out, basically all of it, was left with only a couple high spots of the plastic i needed to take a little gel out so they sat flush, using a lighter and an exacto blade this worked great for cutting the gel.
    Last edited by Stubbz; 10-06-2014 at 05:42 AM.

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    After i had all of the foam out it almost seemed like the gel pad sat down in to far lol. I had some soft thick foam in the garage so i cut half inch strips of it and lined it under the entire gel pad, this worked perfect. I had to figure out a way to make the gel and padding stay in as i flipped it over to staple it all in so i took a thin layer of packing foam almost like bubble wrap but flat and used it to super glue it to seat foam around the gel. Worked great.

    They send a layer of 1/4" foam with the gel thats used as a smoothing foam so you dont see the lines afterward, thats what this pic is, i tacked it to the seat and removed tacks as i started to staple it all in.



    And here is the finished product. Overall i'm damn proud of what i've done here. i've covered seats before but never done anything this extesive. Riding it now it feels just like my wr250x on steroids and cocaine lol. it's not to soft but deff not to hard like stock, 10,000 times better. i ended up overall at 2" exactly taller than my X but thats also with the dirt wheels so once the 17's are on i'll be perfectly fine im figuring.

    Last edited by Stubbz; 10-06-2014 at 05:44 AM.

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    Here is a link on the gel padding i used in case anyone is interested in doing something similar. When i first set the gel down on the seat and sat on a thin layer of foam over it, it felt like it would move very easily like be to soft for this type of bike but after the smoothing foam and cover it just feels great every which way.

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/220642739363...84.m1423.l2649

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    Spent a bit of sunday starting to wire in my Tusk Enduro harness for all the lights and everything, the seller had all this stuff brand new in package. Blinkers should be here today so i can get them all setup and just waiting on the flasher relay i ordered today. Hoping to get my wheels ordered today also if the guy from Warp 9 will get back to me. Thanks to Jeff and Matt for helping me out a bit on FB. Gotta read Jeff's thread a bit on how to do the key switch.

    Hoping i can find a thread on what Trailtech to order and how to set that up. I'm thinking the Vapor Stealth would be the best option from the looks of it, just not sure how plug and play they are.

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    Have you had a good amount of time on that seat yet? My YZ seat is horrible and want to find something that works better.
    2006 YZ450f 50th Anniversary Edition Street legal, Semi WR converted, DNA wheels, Conti attach SM tires, ProCycle.US wiring harness, 12'O Clock Ind tail light, FMF exhaust, KTM style head light, blue billet pegs, ASV levers, Hammerhead pedals and ProMotoBillet kick stand.
    2013 F150 Ecoboost that is part Ford Raptor.

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    Quote Originally Posted by YZ450Scott View Post
    Have you had a good amount of time on that seat yet? My YZ seat is horrible and want to find something that works better.
    I havent yet but it instantly feels a lot better than even the stock one did. it was a bit of work but it feels great, i wont get real road riding time in with it till spring im sure but i dont ride for hours on end anyhow but it shouldnt be a problem now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stubbz View Post
    I wanted to go with the cush drive but im not paying another 500 for that, 1500 without tires and tubes is just fuckin rediculous in my opinion. Shit id rather just buy marchesinis at that point. t5hink ill stick with the $1100 warp 9's
    There is this budget minded option but I haven't read of anyone that has gone this route.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/YAMAHA-CUSH-...item2c8b39851d

    Seems like it's warrantied for a year but I wouldn't count on it.


    Good job on the lowered seat!


    2013 WR four fiddy


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    Thanks on the seat!

    Yeah i saw those but dont trust them. Im sure the cush drive does make it a bit smoother but it shouldnt really be needed on these bikes anyhow. Here is a response i got back from Warp 9 when i questioned them on the cush drive. Not sure how accurate it is on the clutch deal as i havent researched but if so then it makes sense. I just dont get how they are another 500+ just for the cush. If it were 2-300 i could see it.

    Usually you need it on bikes of 650cc or bigger because of the torque.

    KTM factory SM bikes and Yamaha WR250?s don?t run Cush drive. The difference with mx bikes vs dual sport bikes is in MX bikes the clutches have Cush drive springs built into the back of the clutch stack. People just don?t see it unless they pull the motor apart, dual sport bikes like DR650, KLR650 etc. do not have the recoil/Cush drive springs built-in the clutches.

    Even knowing this we had a customer buy direct drive wheels for his DR650 and ride it to Tierra del fuego, the bottom of south America and back with now issues.

    As for the speedo people don?t realize even if they get it to work on their SM wheels unless you can program your speedo to 17? wheels it?s still off by more than 18 to 20 percent which is huge.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stubbz View Post
    Thanks on the seat!

    Yeah i saw those but dont trust them. Im sure the cush drive does make it a bit smoother but it shouldnt really be needed on these bikes anyhow. Here is a response i got back from Warp 9 when i questioned them on the cush drive. Not sure how accurate it is on the clutch deal as i havent researched but if so then it makes sense. I just dont get how they are another 500+ just for the cush. If it were 2-300 i could see it.

    Usually you need it on bikes of 650cc or bigger because of the torque.

    KTM factory SM bikes and Yamaha WR250?s don?t run Cush drive. The difference with mx bikes vs dual sport bikes is in MX bikes the clutches have Cush drive springs built into the back of the clutch stack. People just don?t see it unless they pull the motor apart, dual sport bikes like DR650, KLR650 etc. do not have the recoil/Cush drive springs built-in the clutches.

    Even knowing this we had a customer buy direct drive wheels for his DR650 and ride it to Tierra del fuego, the bottom of south America and back with now issues.

    As for the speedo people don?t realize even if they get it to work on their SM wheels unless you can program your speedo to 17? wheels it?s still off by more than 18 to 20 percent which is huge.

    I read you can reprogram a USDM or CDM speedo to get rid of that phantom speed when going from a 21" to 17" front... but you'd still need the speedo drive unit on the motard hub.


    2013 WR four fiddy


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    I read somewhere that the YFZ quad has a sprung clutch that will interchange but it's solid on the bikes.
    edit: seems the ones with the springs only work on the steel frame bikes with the different primary ratio. I guess there's aftermarket clutch baskets with rubber cushions though.
    Last edited by phunt; 09-22-2014 at 01:06 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by mudmojo View Post
    I read you can reprogram a USDM or CDM speedo to get rid of that phantom speed when going from a 21" to 17" front... but you'd still need the speedo drive unit on the motard hub.
    Yeah i thought that might be the case otherwise it would be pointless.

    Quote Originally Posted by phunt View Post
    I read somewhere that the YFZ quad has a sprung clutch that will interchange but it's solid on the bikes.
    i looked at a breakdown and didnt see anything for spinrgs on the wrf. That probly be a good thing to have but dont think it'll be any issue for me anyhow really, im sure its a lot smoother on streets with cuh but i just cant convince myself to go for it, absurd prices IMO.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stubbz View Post
    Spent a bit of sunday starting to wire in my Tusk Enduro harness for all the lights and everything, the seller had all this stuff brand new in package. Blinkers should be here today so i can get them all setup and just waiting on the flasher relay i ordered today. Hoping to get my wheels ordered today also if the guy from Warp 9 will get back to me. Thanks to Jeff and Matt for helping me out a bit on FB. Gotta read Jeff's thread a bit on how to do the key switch.

    Hoping i can find a thread on what Trailtech to order and how to set that up. I'm thinking the Vapor Stealth would be the best option from the looks of it, just not sure how plug and play they are.
    I don't have the Tusk Enduro kit but I can say that installing the Vapor was easy. I got the 752-300. I haven't drilled any holes to mount in the stock area (yet) but it's simple enough.

    Speedo
    Speedo sensor as attached to the front Warp9 bracket (it is the only bracket you get/need). This is by far the best installation point I have seen, unless someone's hiding their great ideas.


    Opposite side



    Power
    Powering it from the battery is easy. Get some ring terminals and connect it to the battery posts. In "front" of the battery is a hole to lead the wires through. If you're doing your Tusk kit, it probably requires you to route cables to the front of the bike for the rear lights, so do these at the same time. It's a tight fit, but it can be done. Snake it along the factory wires, securing it with electrical tape. Take the gas tank off, to get it past the engine and through the radiator area. Pretty easy, actually. Make sure you've got slack for when you turn the forks.

    Tachometer
    Also requires the tank to be off. You can bring that wire down through that same area as mentioned above and just wrap it around the plug coil. It is an 'external' coil so it will sense the pulse through the plug wire. Done.

    The only thing I haven't hooked it up is the temperature sensor. Haven't quite convinced myself I need to do that.
    Last edited by erode; 09-22-2014 at 01:23 PM.
    '14 WR450F
    Warp 9s, YamaLink, 2Bros slip-on, GYTR Comp ECU, TT Vapor stealth

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    Thanks for that info man, great help. I found the Vapor stealth for $95 shipped, the mounts to protect them are like $55 seperately. I like the looks of the 22PDA or whatever it was with the neutral and blinker lights and so on and also includes the basic mount for $145, will I be able to hook up those lights if i go with the better kit and mount and all? Just seems like the best overall way to go about it vs upgrading the mount later on. Not sure if that basic mount that looks like it mounts into the front of the triple would even work or not.

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    Well i went ahead and ordered up the Stealth Vapor from a company on ebay $95 shipped, i'll see how it mounts and if stock location will work, i have access to any metal and fab stuff i need so i can figure it out im sure, or worst case i'll buy the protector kit for it i just wanna keep it tucked in and out of harms way.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stubbz View Post
    Well i went ahead and ordered up the Stealth Vapor from a company on ebay $95 shipped, i'll see how it mounts and if stock location will work, i have access to any metal and fab stuff i need so i can figure it out im sure, or worst case i'll buy the protector kit for it i just wanna keep it tucked in and out of harms way.
    Hey Stubbs, awesome thread. I have the 2013 wr250f, definitely jealous of you, not going to lie. I do have it all modded though and asked a ton of questions from Trail Tech.

    As far as the setup goes, maybe I can post some pictures but apparently the speedo is best on the fork guard, no matter what wheels/setup you have, you can just swap the magnet (I have the warp 9 setup with Michelin Radials- 17"). Also, everything else was really easy, but the tachometer wired right into the power wire of the spark plug connector. It was easy and really accurate.

    If you need anymore info, let me know. I research things to death and always do what I/others find to be the best or most accurate.
    2013 Yamaha WR250F SMC, 2003 DRZ400SM

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    Quote Originally Posted by Medic5916 View Post
    Hey Stubbs, awesome thread. I have the 2013 wr250f, definitely jealous of you, not going to lie. I do have it all modded though and asked a ton of questions from Trail Tech.

    As far as the setup goes, maybe I can post some pictures but apparently the speedo is best on the fork guard, no matter what wheels/setup you have, you can just swap the magnet (I have the warp 9 setup with Michelin Radials- 17"). Also, everything else was really easy, but the tachometer wired right into the power wire of the spark plug connector. It was easy and really accurate.

    If you need anymore info, let me know. I research things to death and always do what I/others find to be the best or most accurate.
    Thanx man I bet that 250f is an awesome bike! I don't know if I can wire it into the coil but don't need to according to what was mentioned above with same bike. I can do the wraparound deal. From what I've read so far its pretty easy install. Feel free to post pix of that fork cover mount I plan to swap dirt wheels back n forth so that'll be easier tho I don't care to have the speedo for dirt tires but it'll still be nice
    Last edited by Stubbz; 09-23-2014 at 06:54 PM.

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    Well i got my lights all figured out and working, had to connect yellow n black wires from control switch to the tusk harness and everything works great.

    What did you guys do for a high beam/low beam for headlight. I now see that tusk offers a control switch with headlight switch instead of the on/off switch like mine has on it, not sure why he got the one with on/off but i didnt think anything of it. Could i possibly run that switch to the lights to control hi/low beam?

    Here is the switch that i have

    https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...FeVaMgodoVIAAg

    Here is the switch for headlights, i woulda gotten this if i bought my kit myself but it came with the bike.

    https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...ith-Headlights

    Get to setup the Vapor Stealth tonight and should be good to ride a bit this weekend. Got a pressure front brake switch coming to that'll be good for gettin inspected, but im pretty sure you have to have hi and low beam for headlights.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stubbz View Post
    Well i got my lights all figured out and working, had to connect yellow n black wires from control switch to the tusk harness and everything works great.

    What did you guys do for a high beam/low beam for headlight. I now see that tusk offers a control switch with headlight switch instead of the on/off switch like mine has on it, not sure why he got the one with on/off but i didnt think anything of it. Could i possibly run that switch to the lights to control hi/low beam?

    Here is the switch that i have

    https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...FeVaMgodoVIAAg

    Here is the switch for headlights, i woulda gotten this if i bought my kit myself but it came with the bike.

    https://www.rockymountainatvmc.com/p...ith-Headlights

    Get to setup the Vapor Stealth tonight and should be good to ride a bit this weekend. Got a pressure front brake switch coming to that'll be good for gettin inspected, but im pretty sure you have to have hi and low beam for headlights.
    I'm running a headlight switch from an R6, I believe it is very similar to what comes stock on the street legal factory 250's. It is rather bulky, but it makes it so both high and low beams stay on when switched to bright. On a lot of the aftermarket switches, it's either high or low beam not both.

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    Id like to use the switch that i have if at all possible, guess i just need to figure out how to wire that in or a seperate small switch just for headlights.


    Just got notification that my warp 9 rims are shipped, just ordered them 2 days ago and they werent expected to ship until next friday. Awesome!! cant wait!.

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    Your better off with a OEM switch cause all the other ones are junk. I'm in the middle of putting an R6 switch on mine, you need to add a wire for the low beam but that's not hard to do.
    http://www.ebay.com/itm/2006-2007-Ya...53ae18&vxp=mtr

    Or the Wr250 switch
    Last edited by YZ450Scott; 09-26-2014 at 11:02 AM.
    2006 YZ450f 50th Anniversary Edition Street legal, Semi WR converted, DNA wheels, Conti attach SM tires, ProCycle.US wiring harness, 12'O Clock Ind tail light, FMF exhaust, KTM style head light, blue billet pegs, ASV levers, Hammerhead pedals and ProMotoBillet kick stand.
    2013 F150 Ecoboost that is part Ford Raptor.

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    are you just adapting it to the stock setup or custom wiring that youve already done or tieing it into a tusk or baja harness? Take some pix feel free to post um in here, i think someone really needs to do a complete wiring setup thread for these 450fs cuz its almost as if you have to do it all just right or together as well. Im good at electrical stuff but it's very sketchy to start adding wires into an expensive factory harness, especially on a brand new bike

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stubbz View Post
    are you just adapting it to the stock setup or custom wiring that youve already done or tieing it into a tusk or baja harness? Take some pix feel free to post um in here, i think someone really needs to do a complete wiring setup thread for these 450fs cuz its almost as if you have to do it all just right or together as well. Im good at electrical stuff but it's very sketchy to start adding wires into an expensive factory harness, especially on a brand new bike
    I have a DRC wire harness that I'll have to splice it to but it's cut and dry doing it. Your power should already be done through the switch for everything but I need to put a head light on off switch that I'm going to use that came with the wire harness. I have a baja designs key that operates the running lights and as a kill switch. I just got the wire soldered the one wire to the high and low switch so it's not on the bike yet but I've seen a few sumo guys use the R6 switch instead of the crappy aftermarket ones.

    Here's a wright up on it.
    http://supermotojunkie.com/showthrea...tch-on-a-wr450

    Don't pay attention to the left side colors but the right it what you need to splice the wires together if you want to go this route.
    Last edited by YZ450Scott; 09-26-2014 at 02:29 PM.
    2006 YZ450f 50th Anniversary Edition Street legal, Semi WR converted, DNA wheels, Conti attach SM tires, ProCycle.US wiring harness, 12'O Clock Ind tail light, FMF exhaust, KTM style head light, blue billet pegs, ASV levers, Hammerhead pedals and ProMotoBillet kick stand.
    2013 F150 Ecoboost that is part Ford Raptor.

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    Default Stubbz Dream Sumo Build 13 WR450F :)

    Delete
    Last edited by Gaza Man; 09-29-2014 at 03:17 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Gaza Man View Post
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    wassup wid dat?
    2002 yz250f-tarded

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    i actually got the sicassracing key switch and got it in last night, completely plug and play and works great. Only problem i have now is i have to turn the key on, the power on/off buttom, and the left hand control switch and turn them all off everytime i shut if down which is easy to forget and im not sure if it'll drain battery a little with tusk harness left on ive already done that a couple times.

    Got wires n shit everywhere altho there tucked away and zip tied up its just wierd with 3 seperate systems, and i dont like how the vapor turns on when power comes on but when you turn power off everything else the vapor stays lite up and on for 20 minutes and the directions say not to power it to the main power from the battery for whatever reason. Just kind of annoying but it all works so im happy i guess.

    Rims and tires and all will be in today, i moved around some pix in my photobucket but not sure why i lost my images, ill repost some and post up the rims tomorrow, cant wait to ride this with sumo setup. Probly gonna be a few days tho i gotta order up a chain today hopin 120 link will be enough it should.

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    Got her all wired up and fully legal other than waiting on title from the dude but that should be soon.


    SM Rims and tires will be in today, cant wait to rip it with slicks, bike is so fun!!


    my 2 packs of blinkers i got $9 shipped for both sets cant beat that.




    Start of wiring in tusk harness




    tailight and rear blinkers







    all tucked in and wired up








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  45. #43
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    few shots from the mx track last weekend, bike is a riot for offroadin and takes hits like your riding on a cloud. my camera sux so dont mind that






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    Still following this thread stubbz. Good stuff. I ordered the seat gel and want to do the same with my seat on my 250f. Can you re-post the pictures and possibly post more detailed instructions of how you did your seat? I'd like to do the same, if not exactly the same.
    2013 Yamaha WR250F SMC, 2003 DRZ400SM

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    Quote Originally Posted by Medic5916 View Post
    Still following this thread stubbz. Good stuff. I ordered the seat gel and want to do the same with my seat on my 250f. Can you re-post the pictures and possibly post more detailed instructions of how you did your seat? I'd like to do the same, if not exactly the same.
    I will try to repost them for ya. I think the gel works good but you certainly need some foam over top of it. I had to lower mine as much as i could cuz of my height so there is hardly any foam under the gel and only a thin layer of smoothing foam over top of it. It feels ok on the street which is where gel is usually good for street bike seats but it got rough when i rode the mx track and my ass took a beating for it. If i did it again i would chop a section of the foam out then put the gel in and put a fairly thick layer of the stock foam back on overtop of it. I probly should stopped when i put the gel on after i shaved the seat and i woulda had way more foam to work with and cushion but i ended up taking most all of it out and laid gel on the bottom of pan basically.

    It was kind of a trial thing for me and like i say if it werent for trying to make it so low i think it woulda been fine, i'm going to end up having mine redone professionally over winter probably but its fine for now and general riding anyways. Like i said just put more foam overtop of the gel and it should be way better than how i have mine. Ill try to repost a few of those pix.

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    got wheels all mounted up, waiting on a chain link them i can see how it rides with the sumo setup.


  49. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stubbz View Post
    I will try to repost them for ya. I think the gel works good but you certainly need some foam over top of it. I had to lower mine as much as i could cuz of my height so there is hardly any foam under the gel and only a thin layer of smoothing foam over top of it. It feels ok on the street which is where gel is usually good for street bike seats but it got rough when i rode the mx track and my ass took a beating for it. If i did it again i would chop a section of the foam out then put the gel in and put a fairly thick layer of the stock foam back on overtop of it. I probly should stopped when i put the gel on after i shaved the seat and i woulda had way more foam to work with and cushion but i ended up taking most all of it out and laid gel on the bottom of pan basically.

    It was kind of a trial thing for me and like i say if it werent for trying to make it so low i think it woulda been fine, i'm going to end up having mine redone professionally over winter probably but its fine for now and general riding anyways. Like i said just put more foam overtop of the gel and it should be way better than how i have mine. Ill try to repost a few of those pix.
    Awesome, thanks for the info.

    I'm not worried about the height as I'm 6'3". How would I chop the foam out and replace it over top the gel? That seems like it would be pretty difficult. The only way I could think of is to do vertical chops all the way around then cut horizontal at the depth I want to go, but I was hoping to create a sort of box shape in the foam around the gel to hold it in place, if that makes sense.
    2013 Yamaha WR250F SMC, 2003 DRZ400SM

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    Damn, that looks really good.
    '14 WR450F
    Warp 9s, YamaLink, 2Bros slip-on, GYTR Comp ECU, TT Vapor stealth

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    Quote Originally Posted by Medic5916 View Post
    Awesome, thanks for the info.

    I'm not worried about the height as I'm 6'3". How would I chop the foam out and replace it over top the gel? That seems like it would be pretty difficult. The only way I could think of is to do vertical chops all the way around then cut horizontal at the depth I want to go, but I was hoping to create a sort of box shape in the foam around the gel to hold it in place, if that makes sense.
    i guess you could do it either way, if your just cutting an area out so the gel sits down into it then there should be plenty of foam under the gel so it works with it also. i would try to ride it a bit with it set down in there to determine how you really want it, could always cut foam out set gel down in then get some better foam to put strips of it back in overtop of the gel. mine is overtop of like an inch of some soft foam i had thats why i think its hard when riding rough stuff but ok when on streets or just cruisin

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