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What makes the best street-tard; Revised edition

216K views 228 replies 127 participants last post by  cisheehan 
#1 ·
I've noticed a lot of repeat questions in the original "best street-tard" thread, and also that a lot of people don't want to read through all 47 pages. I've gone through all the posts in the previously mention thread, and I think I've summed it up fairly well. I've anyone has any more info to ad, go ahead, but please don't fill it up with "which is better, drz vs. husky 510".

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STREET:

KTM LC4 640, 3000 mile oil changes. Great for commuting. They require (relatively) little maintenance, and are not "pure race motors" at all.

KTM 625, excellent bike, excellent components, excellent handling. There is no reliability drawback over anything else, it's fast and fun. The 625SMC is arguably one of the best street-tards. KTM does all the hard work for you and sells them street legal from the factory. Their only drawback is that they vibrate. Bad. Some people think it shakes too much for street riding.

MZ Baghira, very comfy. "I've put 12,000 miles on it with only oil changes every 2K, and 1 valve adjust. I love the bike, it fits my needs, and if I had to do it again, I would get it again. That said, it is heavy, but I feel that weight is not that big a deal on a street bike." Weight on these bikes is very easy to drop, to a point. For example, the stock muffler/cat is about 15 lbs. "The power of the motor is really good stock, I dropped 1 tooth on the countershaft, still goes 70 comfy on the hwy, but lofts the front in 2nd with ease now."

Husky 610, extremely reliable as a daily commuter. "I recommend buying the 610 if you plan on riding alot on the road. This is my commuting vehicle. I have some nice tight twisty farm roads on the way to work - almost no traffic (25 miles with 3 stop lights total). This is perfect for me, I can't imagine anything better."

XR650R, big, fast, powerful(ish), reliable, little maintenance, etc. While certainly heavier than more specialised machines, it is hard to beat for heavy use, day in day out, commuting, track days, trail riding, 500 mile days, etc. Dependable, all kinds of parts and info available. They are excellent bikes, very stable at speed and have all the potential you want to make out of them. "I ride a XR650R, and typically ride with sport bikes. We ride between 250 and 450 miles in a day, on twisty mountain roads. I have no wind protection, and stock seat foam. I have a range of 150 miles on a 4gal tank with 15/40 gearing, and a top speed of 119. I've done 1900 miles in a span of 9 days, two of them over 400 miles. Put a little over 7K on the supermoto last year, so I guess it's the riders butt and back that regulates how far you can ride a supermoto!" It's also been proven to do great off-road. The XR650R is a good choice, if you're kick start skills are up to par.

XR650L, Bombproof. "The XR650L is probably the most comfy bike you can ride in the city." Big seat, long suspension. "It's not too fun on the highway, though. I stick mainly to B roads." Heavy, old technology, air cooled dirt bike w/ sloppy suspension and low HP. Very dependable. "A good bike, smooth motor(for a thumper), bulletproof, and I can take it on pretty long rides, maintenance intervals are just like any other street bike and parts availability isn't a problem." There is pretty much no difference (performance wise) between an XR650L and DRZ400SM. The XR's an ancient design that is well outdated and its right on track with a more modern 400.

XR400, small, light, reliable. Not incredible power, but a fun bike.

DR650, "I was riding my DR650 142 miles round trip a day for a year, all year. 80/90mph most of the way. I got no complaints with the DR." "Dependable as hell and easy to maintain. Also handles well." "My DR650 is my 21st bike I've owned! I'm getting older so I wanted a good reliable bike to chase my son around the yard on his 50 and a fun way to and from work. No, I dont think I could race it, but these bikes are a blast on the street!! Reliable,pulls great wheelies and great looks!"

DRZ400SM, I would say that a DRZSM would be a perfect bike for a new rider. "Cruises comfortably at 75-80 mph and will even cruise at 90 mph if I want to put up with the windblast." As you probably know the drz motor is bullet proof and needs very little maintenance. Enough power to have a ton of fun, but not too much. However, it does have it's drawbacks. "The DRZ is a great little bike, but it's slow, it's heavy, it needs more HP and another gear." "If you like riding the streets carving the corners and lifting the front wheel on every exit you'll want the hit of the real SM bikes." If you're a modder, then the DRZ will do you well, but you'll need to spend some time and $'s to do so. A stock DRZ-E is about the same power as a DR650, the DRZ-SM has less because of different cams, base gasket and CV carb. You can easily mod it from there to have a lot more go than a DR650 can, but it will take some time and effort of course. If you don't like to do maintenance, and just want to plow around on the street, the DRZ is the right bike for you. It's a great everyday bike, and for blasting around town. So you have to ask yourself, and answer honestly, "what am I going to use this bike for?

KLR650, excellent mileage munchers, but too heavy and soft to make a supermoto. Forget the KLR. Great bike but not motard material. Just too large and heavy.

KTM 950SM, won't mind long distances or hooliganism, if you can afford it!
 
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#37 ·
True, but I don't think a lot of people know that it's possible to buy a DRZ that comes stock weighing 250lbs and with 40hp. That's a totally different feel compared to the DRZSM which weighs about 300 and has 32hp. It's a really nice (maybe the only) compromise between a 450 racebike and a big, 300+lb 600+cc "street" SM.

Now if only they would build a DRZ450E....260lb and 45hp... and a sixth gear... all would be right with the world.
 
#29 ·
I had a XR650R for almost 4 years and rode it almost every day. When i sold it, it had 24,000 miles on the clock. That was over 1 year ago and it's still ranning.
I changed the oil and checked the valves every month. I only major parts i had to replace was the clutch and the carb...If you deal with a kick start only bike, the 650R is a very reliable bike...
 
#30 ·
Nice listing of what's out there in street tards, But, If you live in Calif. the list shrinks really fast. And, if you want something under 300 lbs, then its not much of a list at all. I have a Drz sm and for the last 2 years it's been wait and see re: the 2007 and now the 2008 models from the different manufacturers. And yet, still nothing new out there for us. Maybe 2009?? I'm not looking for a replacement for the SM, I'd like an additional bike. I'm hoping for a lighter, higher performance bike at a dealer near me. And of course, something I can plate.

The only from the factory SMs that I can see for Californians under 300 lbs are the DRZ and the Husky 450 or 510. (I already did the 510 and didn't like the close ratio trans for street use) And,the only make it yourself SM seems to be the KTM 450 or 530.

Not much of a list at all.

Tony
 
#31 ·
Great info that's really helpful to someone looking to get their first Tard ( like me) :thumbup:
 
#34 ·
Great list but I seriously could use year of manufacture.
 
#36 ·
I think you went a bit hard on the Husaberg since the 04 and up are way better then what you described.
Yes, you're right. I took the Berg info straight out of the "Best Street 'Tard" thread, and that was a bit outdated. Modern Husabergs really are as reliable as any other race supermoto, keep up with the maintenance and you're good.
 
#39 ·
unbiased opinions do it all SUMO

I am purchasing a new/used sumo in the next few weeks and debating 3 machines. Husky 510sm, Honda XRR, and KTM 525. The Honda and KTM will be bought used and converted to supermoto. It will be used for off-road and given a pretty hard life in general. Will KNOWLEDGABLE riders give me their thought on the 3. The XRR will have the "power up kit" HRC kit installed and upgraded to the specs of the other 2.

1.) will the Honda hang with the other 2 in acceleration due to a big increase in weight and handle pretty close with upgraded suspension?

2.) I understand the Husky and KTM will require more frequent oil changes; are those two equal as far as performance and reliability?

3.) I know Baja Designs sells passenger pegs for the XR; can you get pegs for the Euros or is the subframe not up to it? (I know they are not designed for it but if I need to give a quick ride to somebody)

Any info is greatly appreciated. I've read quite a bit but never saw a direct comparison. If somebody can give me a link to such info that would be cool!
 
#40 ·
I wanted to clarify my previous post. In addition to mainly street riding, I will ride a bit off-road. I will not race although I would like to attend a SUMO school to sharpen my skills. It will be a playbike and light commuting. An impotant thing I really want is a bike that will haul ass with tons of torque!
BTW, if I end up with the Honda I will have about 3 grand for wheels, inverted forks, cosmetics, etc... I know a lot of you will say "save yourself the trouble and get the Husky or KTM" but I have been bitten by the SUMO bug and would enjoy building a custom bike to my spec- but with that said a 2007 510 Husky SM looks like one sweet ride!!!!!!!!!
 
#42 ·
I can't comment on the other two bikes, but the XR takes care of #2 and #3, with some gearing thrown at it, and also fills your desire for a custom set-up. Additionally, the Honda has a better dealer support throughout North America. Doh!!!...I thought the last two posts came from the same person...
 
#43 ·
will a XRR with the HRC kit hang with the newer lighter KTM's, Husky's in a straight line? Can you put passenger pegs on the Euro bikes? I looked and have not found anything; I read somewhere on here that Husky 450 and 510 sm's come with pegs that you have to install yourself. True?
 
#44 ·
That is true, but they're a pain to mount, look stupid, and there still isn't enough room for a second person to sit. The only thing they're good for is wheelies:thumbup:

BTW, I think the XRR could hang in a straight line, but their weight and steering geometry will make it more difficult when the roads get twisty.
 
#45 ·
thanks for the response, I never thought there was room for a passenger with that small seat. I am leaning toward to the XRR as I will not be racing although I might go and play on some tracks. I would like the capability of a passenger even though it's not ideal- but you know how girls are; they see a cool bike and want a ride. I have a line on a clean '04 XRR with the HRC kit installed but still has the 21/18 wheels and stock plastic. I would want to install moto wheels/rubber and swap in inverted forks. Does anyone recommend a set of forks over another and reasons why. I see CRF common on the XRR tards- is that the best/ easiest route to go? What about shock upgrades/ replacements. Thanks all!
 
#47 ·
I know the CRF450r is pretty much a race bike but I'm seeing more people streeting them, anyone care to elaborate on their experience. How fast are they compared to the KTM 450's and which is better for the street? How fast compared to the SVX? I'm looking into building one, but if they won't fit the bill I need to look elsewhere... Also some CR500 street tard experience would be nice to hear about as well, that probably falls under "what makes the worst street tard, but sick bike". Awesome list though super helpful!!
 
#50 ·
i'm looking to buy my first tard, i don't have the money for a KTM or Husky. i'm workin with about 4000-4500. I want something that is reliable, powerful and can handle both on and off road duties, 90/10. I've narrowed my choices to the drzsm, dr650 & drz400.
My main concern is cost of switching back and forth from offroad duties to street terrors. What would cost more, having an xtra dirt set up for an sm or converting a drz/dr to an sm w. inverted forks? i assume converting the drz/dr to street would be more expensive, right?

on a side note, would anyone like to trade their street tard for my 06 Honda TRX 450R (quad)? I want to be back on a bike and hit the streets!
 
#51 ·
I've anyone has any more info to ad, go ahead,
not really to add but to subtract.

the 625smc does not vibrate too much thats a load of crap coming from street bike guys used to a perfectly balanced engine and superwide seat.

ive ridden a smc with 6 miles on it and mine with 20000 still never felt extreme vibration. seriously i read that many times too but its just way exaggerated.
 
#52 ·
As for HP, the SXV 550 is pretty amazing - about 70-72 at the crank de-restricted. After riding everything out there, the SXV really takes the award for biggest kick-in-the-pants fun in the twisties. Incredible bike if you can afford it and the oil changes every 10-15 hours.
 
#53 ·
ugh....c'mon no respect for the klx650r.......everyone always mentions the stupid klr pig.....although very uncommon and harder to obtain parts for these bikes are bulletproof and have great streetable torque.....very comparable to an xr650r and in my opinion much better looking and not just because its green

-Adam
 
#55 ·
I dont agree that you gave TMI on the DRZ. Its one of the most popular SSM and CConverted SSSM on many forums. He was quick and to the point without being too wordy. If you think its TMI bc everyone knows that the Zed is a great SM, well, I didnt know that until I looked at buying one. TTHHe info I picked up hare and on other forums led to my decision to get on and I'm very happy with it.

Rock on PLRacer

As for the conversion price depends on what you pay for the bike and what your other setup costs. I bought a leftover and saved about $1100 over the price of an SM. So I put together a set of SM wheels for about $1400. I saved for a year to do it and it worked out.

Some find deals on SM bikes and can pick up dirt wheels for $600-800. THe key is using the same size brakes on both sets to speed the conversion. Its not berfect but it only takes me about 15 min to change out.
 
#56 ·
ALRIGHT slight change of subject here... not sure how many thousands of times this has been brought up??....

but would a oil cooler help?? it seems like everyone is worried about reliability on the street... so i am picking up a husky 510 and do want to hit the highway at 65mph for 10 miles at a time or so, and get places to ride, but i dont want to worry about loosing a top end..so it seems as if you can keep temps low, and oil temps low (and possibly increase amount of oil capacity) the bikes do GREAT on reliablilty... SO would an oil cooler do all this?????
 
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