Here's a chance for us to list all the modifications to the 610 both major and minor for helping when doing our own wrenching and to make suggestions for better engineering. Let's add pics when possible and please don't hijack this thread with beer consumption, tail chasing, hooligan stories....keep those where they belong in the "Lobby". That way we can keep this simple, use less bandwidth and make referencing a whole lot easier.
Thats what i thought you had but i gave you the benefit of the doubt ....
ANYWAY.......:headshake for those who want to know everything possible about the 06/07 CARB'd 610 te or sm here is the shop manual... want to rebuild your entire bike from the ground up? well you can if you know how to follow directions....
and of course i have no chance to re-program it there,in russia....
...but I am going to install the radial lever-it will be my super upgrade =)) i've asked about it in the other topic - but there's no answer...
1)if I'm not mistaken- it's mikuni....but I think that this mod will cost too much and don't make my husky run much greater....
2) I've read some topics and saw that the stock carb husky can be easily bounched up on the 4th gear(topic about wheelies) I can do it only on the 2nd and then shift to 3,4 on my IE 610, it may be bounched on the 3rd- but it's rather hard. So I think that the stock carb husky runs better...=( wtf.
the fuel injection was made for emissions standards not performance... now look at the mx 450's coming out with FI and they are rip snortin fire breathing machines that put shame to their previous carb'd models...so as the engine stands for the 610 it will not benefit anymore than what we have done currently with the carb'd models we have here in the states.
I really want to burn mine up so i can have an excuse to unlock the full potential of the engine and throw reliability out the window... I am talking full machine work of the head, up compression, grind the crank to exacting specs (through trial and error of course) and see what it is capable of... i would lke to research the NOx engine a bit more first but i think it can be done...
all motor, no turbos, no nitrous.
ill probably do it when i have another bike to ride that i find as enjoyable as my 610 is now...
I wonder if anyone had tried using extrude honing process for the intake and exhaust runners on the head. My friend sweared by it when he had his single cam SI motor.
most recent mod... pro tapers:thumbup: new front indicators, and check out the clock....better yet where the ignition is! I dont know about you all but It was a bitch to turn the key due to the position of the inginition. next tear down is the K&N, and rejetting.
dude, the ignition move.... ingenious! i hate where the stock location is... especially when youre runnin handguards and diffrent mirrors... wow, good work!
and just when you think you have seen it all...POW hapa makes it happen!
Thanks all for the compliments! They are some off brand I got a cycle gear. I will check the brand and get back to you. BTW I had to drill out the speedo bracket and the unders side washers a bit to accept the new mounting bolts but it seems to work. We will see if the bars fall off today?
My recent little get-off not only bent my bars and foot-peg hanger, it also broke off the toe piece on the rear brake lever but left the lever in good shape.
Since you can't get just the toe piece and have to buy the whole lever I tried a Mcguyver fix and I think it's gonna work.
This little gem is all of $2 at Lowes and is meant for inserting a machine bolt into something wooden. I put a 3/8 bolt in with some red loctite and she's fixed.:thumbup: Kinda looks cool too I think.
Saturday afternoon I decided to to my rejet and filter. I also smoothed out the intake side of the carb. I you have not looked at yours it is rough and has square edges.(mine no more) What a difference though third gear wheelies with no clutch! Smoother take offs and more top end.[/ATTACH]
I also ground of one of the stops on the air box side of the carb so I could angle the filter more and also ground the intake side of the carb with a slight angle to give it a better chance of fitting the K&N 1770 on with out crunching it all up.
Did you notice the benefits from the intake filing before and after the K&N-gutted airbox mod or did you do both at the same time? I'm asking cause i did the K&N but not the filing, I will now though.
Thanks Hapa and great addition to the database.:thumbup:
yes goose, i am not a fan of dremeling out the inside of my carb but if it works out for you ill be down... my only specualtion is that you will only see better gas mileage and that will be minimal...
Just make sure that you take the intake side of the carb off before you grind on it. If you have a good filter a good exhaust but a bad intake that disturbs the air and fuel mixture as it enters the combustion chamber then you have ruined the whole flow thing. :cheers:
Great job on the small battery conversion Goosedog! I wonder how the YTZ7S cranking power with a 30 degree cold motor and 20W50 oil will work out?
I went with the Yuasa YTZ14S since the stock Varta is known to short out on rough riding. It is lighter and smaller than stock but has a lot more cranking power than the little brother YTZ7S which would be marginal for the 610 motor on a cold day. I used 1" extra foam to pad out the mount since the battery is quite a bit shorter in height.
After all there is no kick starter and it has CCA 230 rating and 11.2 amp hrs
size is 6" x 3.5" x 4.4" and weighs 8.6 lbs. Works great on my bike.:thumbup:
Well I would gladly let you ride mine if you were around here. anyway this is why port and polishing is so big in engine building to stop the air and fuel from getting disrupted during the intake system...as well as porting and polishing the exaust. the faster in and out you can get the better performance.
each mod I do I notice a difference in performance.
well we better stick to the thread or goosedog will chew our asses out:infrandom:twofinger
hahaha chain... thanks guys for the offer and if i ever take a rip with ya i will def. take your offer...
i think the porting may only come in handy if its the head thats ported... i had my VW heads done and wow the flow alone kept the intake mans. cooler from the dual webbers than anything i have ever imagined...
that is i true if you port the head and intake exaust etc... but the quicker the air and fuel can get to the cylinder the better you are that is why they make the K&N and all the other intakes prior to the intake manifold.
any way I would like to know how the smoothing of the intake manifold to the carb goes and if it make a difference.
Installed some new wheels on my trusty 610... Black Behr, 5" rear with Factory Pro Billet Hubs and Moto Master racing brake rotors. Also Flo Commander heat coated velocity stack with remote adjustable main air circuit for on the fly jetting adjustments. Works great!
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