Here's a chance for us to list all the modifications to the 610 both major and minor for helping when doing our own wrenching and to make suggestions for better engineering. Let's add pics when possible and please don't hijack this thread with beer consumption, tail chasing, hooligan stories....keep those where they belong in the "Lobby". That way we can keep this simple, use less bandwidth and make referencing a whole lot easier.
For starters; the K&N RU-3190 definately fits better than the RU-1770. The oversize inlet allows for easier molding to the carb, only some trimming is needed to better angle the neck.
From Advance Auto I found this little gem of a vacume right angle piece that when trimmed allows the carb bowl drain line to clear the top of the starter motor.
I believe I might have had some air entering the mid-pipe causing a de-celerate poping, hope this cures it. I might also be jetted alittle lean and this will at least rule out the air-leak.
How about a lighter battery, anyone done that? I had a Yuasa YTZ7S sitting on the bench for my other project (that'll wind up not being done till the spring). I thought I better hook it up to something and use it instead of just trickling it.
To my horror I found the stock 610 Varta battery is larger than the battery on my RC51, a bike not well know for it's light parts!
A little bit of custom foam cutting and voila the small battery is in and secure and it turns over without the stock laboured, maybe I'll start, maybe I won't sound.
1. Disconnect the carb vent lines/fuel lines and remove the tank and the headlight unit.
2. Take a look at what goes where... where the hoses go.
3. Remove the manifold that is zip tied by the ignition switch
4. Remove the small cannister attached to the lower triple
5. Disconnect the hoses that connect to the pink carb vent lines and reroute the vent hoses
6. Disconnect the hose from the nipple on the intake side of the head, near the carb boot and plug it up with an automotive vacuum plug
7. Remove the large cannister and attached hoses.
8. Install one of those little aluminum no spill fuel vent fittings to the top fuel vent nipple on the tank.
9. Reinstall the tank and headlight and you're good to go. Don't forget to plug the nipple on the side of the head. It is a vacuum line and will suck air otherwise.
How about a lighter battery, anyone done that? I had a Yuasa YTZ7S sitting on the bench for my other project (that'll wind up not being done till the spring). I thought I better hook it up to something and use it instead of just trickling it.
To my horror I found the stock 610 Varta battery is larger than the battery on my RC51, a bike not well know for it's light parts!
A little bit of custom foam cutting and voila the small battery is in and secure and it turns over without the stock laboured, maybe I'll start, maybe I won't sound.
I weighed the stocker from the 610 and it's just under 10lbs. I've done a search and come up with nothing less the 8lbs with the proper voltage and amperage. To me it's not worth the $60. or so for less than a two pound difference. The search continues however.
Also I am now running without the cooling fan. The weight of that did not justify the occational need for it....actually mine has never even come on.
I weighed the stocker from the 610 and it's just under 10lbs. I've done a search and come up with nothing less the 8lbs with the proper voltage and amperage. To me it's not worth the $60. or so for less than a two pound difference. The search continues however.
Also I am now running without the cooling fan. The weight of that did not justify the occational need for it....actually mine has never even come on.
If it was just about weight I'd agree but it cranks better too. Maybe not something to rush out and get, more to fit into the frame when the stocker packs it in.
+1 ON THE REMOVAL OF THE RAD FAN. I removed mine when I removed smog crap when I brought the bike home. Alabama heat 100+ degrees for 3 weeks, no problem, just keep moving & use Engine Ice or equivalent. I used some temperature strips on cylinder, head & exhaust just to check & make sure no overheating....It's all good. :thumbup:
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