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610 mod database (relevant posts only)

357K views 779 replies 161 participants last post by  Ald 
#1 ·
Here's a chance for us to list all the modifications to the 610 both major and minor for helping when doing our own wrenching and to make suggestions for better engineering. Let's add pics when possible and please don't hijack this thread with beer consumption, tail chasing, hooligan stories....keep those where they belong in the "Lobby". That way we can keep this simple, use less bandwidth and make referencing a whole lot easier.
 
#102 ·
Mainly for looks, but the rear is a 5" rim, so I get more rubber on the road with a 160 tire. Also, having a spare set of wheels gives me a little more flexibility on choice of tires I choose to run depending on conditions.
 
#103 ·
hey guys, while waiting for paint to dry i got a little antsy and trimmed some more plastic goodies on my bike...

go look at yours and youll see the diffrence.


i also got a new chainguide setup for a little experimentation...



just a little paint and imagination, see how different it looks now? I would like to powdercoat the swingarm and frame soon as well, grey looks cheap after 5k miles. and being bashed on the bike stand.
 
#106 ·
I've posted Speedzilla's SM610 mega thread for you a couple of times....I see you have not read it yet since you keep posting the same emission removal questions. So, since you don't want to read the most comprehensive guide to everything that is the SM 610, I have your answer......


"Originally Posted by Dave
Dukepilot, have you removed the emisssions junk yet?

Yup, it's history. Pretty easy to do.

Disconnect the carb vent lines/fuel lines and remove the tank and the headlight unit.
Take a look at what goes where... where the hoses go.
Remove the manifold that is zip tied by the ignition switch
Remove the small cannister attached to the lower triple
Disconnect the hoses that connect to the pink carb vent lines and reroute the vent hoses
Disconnect the hose from the nipple on the intake side of the head, near the carb boot and plug it up with an automotive vacuum plug
Remove the large cannister and attached hoses.
Install one of those little aluminum no spill fuel vent fittings to the top fuel vent nipple on the tank.
Reinstall the tank and headlight and you're good to go. Don't forget to plug the nipple on the side of the head. It is a vacuum line and will suck air otherwise.
I routed the top carb vent lines to a location under the seat and used one of the left over T fittings to connect the lower carb vent hoses (not the carb bowl drain line) and installed a filter and one way valve to keep shit out of the carb. Also rerouted the crankcase vent from the airbox, plugged the hole left in the airbox and capped of the vent hose with a K and N vent filter. Took about 30 minutes to do in total"



Your's may not have all the smog/emission equipment on it since it is not a North American model & since we in the States have not received any EFI models as of today, I'm not sure if it does either. GL
 
#114 ·
:) It took me 7 months to locate an 04-07 R1 front brake M/C. Same as 05-07 R6 Its factory brembo unit. Same one use on some Ducs. I found someone local who was parting out his track bike. Got it for $30. The brake reservoir is from the same bike. I used the rear brake reservoir. I just zip tied the reservoir to the throttle cable. Original was plenty stopping power. but i always wanted an aftermarket lever.
 
#118 ·
so the radial master is off a yami? R1 R6? I have been wanting to replace the levers/perches on my sm for some time so I can install some cool shorty levers. What did you do with your clutch if any?

Thanks in advance for your reply if you will.

hapamoto
 
#115 ·
dude get your self a piece of flat 1/2' steel stock and drill two holes, one on either end, mount one end on your lever clamp and the other to your reservoir... zip ties... pfft what do you think youre riding, a 610??

my rear fender is held on by ziptes now... hahahaa
 
#128 ·
I just used another set of blind rivets, and a rivet gun to pop them in place. As for jetting, i haven't touched it yet, but am planning on ordering a JD kit on Monday, as well as doing the AP mod this afternoon. I'll report back afterwards with how things went.
 
#130 ·
Well, after messing around with a few different settings, here is the best setup I have found for my mods, temp [50F or below] and alt [central KY]

Stock needle in the 5th slot [4th is stock]
178 main
stock pilot [50]
AP mod, using an oring froman oring chain masterlink

The bike runs pretty darn good now.. although i wonder if I need to go richer with the main, the bike seems to just wind off a bit int he higher revs.. granted thats in 5th and 6th gear, nothign gonna pull ral hard there, but, i digress.

The bike is still doing the ever so slight pop around 4500 so many of us talk about. Next up on the mods list is an iridium plug, and messing with disconnecting the TPS

After that, im gonna convert the stock can to a true straight through setup with a perforated core. A it stands right now, its just a big open chamer, and its prolly got tons of turbulence.. theres prolly a lil more power up top in there if I let the exhaust escape smoothly..
 
#129 ·
Thought it worth adding to this thread.

4300-4800rpm stutter completely cured and decel pop almost comletely cured by the iridium plug.

Not sure if that's simply because it's a nice new, clean plug, or the fact that it's a different spec. Will see further down the track, I guess.

I bought this bike with 2000km on it. I put 1000km on it before changing the muffler, and another 2000km since. At 5000 km the original plug showed the bike to be running slightly rich.

The iridium plug and Barrett end can are the only engine mods I've made. Jetting and air filter are stock, and fuel screw is in stock position.

Power wheelies in second will flip the bike if I really try. Powers up with a little bump or throttle chop in third, or clutches up fairly easily.
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