Have 7 minutes to spare????
Click here for an A_Z valve lesson courtesy of Speed TV.
Have 7 minutes to spare????
Click here for an A_Z valve lesson courtesy of Speed TV.
Chris Reo rocks. He was one of my instructors @ MMI.
07 Husqvarna SMR 510
05 CRF 450R MX
i know what my next tool is..suction cup on a stick yeah!!
love instructional videos got anymore?
Good vid, thanks for sharing!!
2005 CRF450R SM
2005 DRZ4ohoh SM
Great video! Makes me want to go out and buy a four stroker just to do the valves
2009 HONDA ST1300 (RED)
2007 SUZUKI DRZ400SM (BLACK) FOR SALE
2005 SUZUKI DL1000 (BLACK)
Notice a trend?
best video iv ever seen so simple
IN BENZIN VERITAS
nice video...makes it look quick and easy. (even though 7 minute video will take the average guy 4-5 hours to accomplish)
wopachop...that tool is refered to as a valve lapper...you stick it to the valve face and spin it in your hands to mate the valve face and valve seat when grinding/resurfacing the valves....should cost about 5 bucks and is available at any decent auto parts store.
Do not lap your valves unless you are 100% sure they are steel not Ti. Lapping a Ti valve will remove the hard coat and rapidly wear in a few hours, into the valve face.
Factory tip....... But 1 extra Ti intake & exhaust valve and use them only to lap the seat when you rebuild.
A magnet in an extent ion LIKE THIS is great for removing the shims and not dropping them into your motor.
Added note: when removing the bucket do so carefully; I have had the shim stick to bucket and nearly fall back into motor. I personally would not trust a valve lapper, magnet is a much better choice.
I use magnets, don't see the advantages of nice suction thingy...
and also note that he should say, not all motors are the same, the C-rings on a RMZ are the same, and goes under the cam, It looks on the video that they are placed above
but besides that detail, pretty good video!but make shure you have the manual near you...
you also need to line up the markers of the intake cam with the cilinderhead...
adjusting valves on twincam bikes is so much fun
kTm 250 exc 2stroke sold
rmz 450 sold
KTM 625 LC4 sold
video wont play
thanks for the vid, lots of helpful stuff
do u have to pull the engine to do this?
Nope...the motor can stay in the frame on the DRZ...I just got done rebuilding the top end in an 02 S model with the motor still in. Just pull the horn off(if you have one).
is it normal for the engine to have a slight tick sound even when the valves dont need adjusting?
I LOVE my ktm. Takes me less then 40 min to do the valve checks (including removing the plastics)
Thank god for Screw type adjusters!
It gets easier as you go tho.
2005 Yamaha R6
2006 Yamaha TTR50
2007 KTM 450 SMR
2010 KTM 150 SX
so about the ticking...its only slight and doesnt sound bad it just sounds a little ticky but some people have told me most single cylinder have a little tick and people say i was just comparing to previous r6 (4cyl) and 250r (v twin). so is it normal for the engine to have a slight tick sound even when the valves dont need adjusting?
That was awsome!
Shouldn't be ticking...may be cam chain. Whatever it is you need to check it.
Actually the valve and the seat wears down, the cam and the bucket doesn't. Normally the valve clearances get tighter, not looser.
I'm new here and I don't intend to sound like a smart a??. It's best to use the suction cup. A magnet can magnetize the bucket, which would attract metal particles from the oil and cause cam/bucket issues (technically).
Who mentioned lapping valves? Another good point.
A properly cut valve seat doesn't need lapping. That's just causing premature wear.
I color the valve faces and the seats with a Magic Marker and smack the valve into the head. Under close inspection I can see if there is any missed contact areas and the width of the contact patch.
I love my older Hondas. I can check and adjust the valves on my 600 in less than 20 minutes....and that's not rushing it. Not to blow smoke... but setting up a 16 valve Toyota head makes a 4 valve bike head seem easy. The best I've seen is the 5 valve heads that Yamaha used on the FZRs (20 valves). The Honda CBX has 24...have to check, spec, and adjust 12 at a time.
Cool post by the way. He's a good instructor and I always enjoy his vids.
Im new here too, and don't want to sound like a smart a@@!
Good video, always out to get new tips! Good info on the Ti valves! Most makes differ in one way or another, never used the lap stick to remove buckets but why not.. good point with the magnetic pick up, I do use one all the time, but never realy thought about the iron fileings! Its a good point! My tips, the shims nearly always stick to the bucket, so use a rag to block the plug hole (or put the plug in half turn) and keep the cam chain tunnel covered or they may fall in! Then your trying to fish them out! Don't over tighten the cam covers, most are around 10nm, thats not FT..
I too love the older rockers, easy to do and no shims to get. "A tappy tappet is a happy tappet!"
the instructors @ mmi say to use that tool beacuse they claim that if you use a magnet that you will magnatize your bucket and shit and then shit will start to float around or stick to the lobe of the cam and thats no good but they Never ever have i seen that happen i think maybe if you left the mag on there for like a week.... maybe
btw when the valves move as pingking said they get tighter and that is cuz the valve gets pushed into the valve seat and make an indent in the valve face that call "tuliping" (yes like the flower) the tapping or ticking my be the play in your cam chain tensioner plunger moving in and out drz's have a bad problem with that and updated their cam chain tensioner three times
I have many specialties besides servicing/building bikes. Using a magnet on anything during an auto trans rebuild is a no-no, expecially on the metal control valves.
I worked in a shop where one rebuilder used a magnet to remove the stuck valves from a valve body, that's something I never would do. He's the one that always seemed to have issues w/his units.
One or two specs of grit floating around on the top of a bucket would eventually get washed/flung off during high revs, so I don't see an actual issue. Though, it's detrimental in the tranny world.
Too many others to list....
Speaking of adjusting valves... can anyone tell me what the white sludge in my intake valve cover might indicate on my '07 SM 610? Nasty!
Here is the link to the image if it does not appear in the post:
2007 Husky SM610
that video was vey informative thanks
pymoo looks like what you get when you mix water with oil and the motor turns it into a milk shake yummmy!
Regarding the supermoto milkshake, I have decided the water is from condensation (commuting in 17 degree weather). I drained the oil, and there was really no water present, so I'm feeling OK that the water pump seal is good and coolant is otherwise not getting in. Now that the weather is 65 degrees, I need to put it back together!
2007 Husky SM610
Had to drop in and add my two cents.
1: Screw tappets are the bomb! Adjusting the valves on my XR takes all of 20-30 minutes with a beer in one hand, whereas my DRZ took me about an hour. Most of the work on the XR is removing the fuel tank.
2: I would stick with the lapping tool to remove the buckets. I'm not crazy about using magnets in an engine for the magnetization issue. If you're worried about dropping the shims in the motor, stand on the side of the engine opposite the cam chain to avoid dropping them in the chain void. Any oil galleys should be plugged with a small piece of rag anyways.
3: For holding the cam chain out of the way, I find it best to use a long zip tie and run it between the cam chain and either the exhaust header or the intake boot. Pretty much guarantees that it won't fall back into the motor (which would make for a bad day).
4: Lastly, sometimes the crank does not seem very happy hanging out at TDC and when you go to put the cams back in it may try to take a hike. Triple-check that the timing is correct BEFORE putting the cam cover back on. Also, coat the buckets, cam lobes and cam journals with a light coat of oil before putting them back in. It'll help prevent extra wear that might occur when you start the engine for the first time.
CBR F3 front, 900RR rear by Kubiak
Wiseco 10.5:1 piston, Stage 1 Hotcam, PD8AF carb, UNI pod filter, FMF PC4, battery relocation, 600R numberplates, Trailtech Vapor, Acerbis Cyclops, and a few other goodies.
Cool video. I'd probably triple check the TDC window a few times. OCD.
Thanks dude. I was about to send my bike in to have the schims done. I have worked on the engine before so it will be easier now. I guess without the workshop manual, I could just call my local Kawa dealer and get new ones. Am I right in assuming that the schims worn out in time so the valves start pulling through the head.
Its time to kick ass and chew bubblegum....Damn I'm all out of bubblegum.
Somehow I don't have sound with that video, anyway this one is great aslo IMO
I've read about this in Husqvarna manual but since I don't have SM yet and never did valve check I have one question: in manual it says that if valve clearance is not correct you have to get a new pad. Is that how it is done? +what kind of tool do you use to properly measure the clearance?
here is a few more tips on setting valves-
Before pulling off valve cover make sure to remove ANY dirt etc from
frame -and other areas where crud could fall into the motor-
Wash your hands - crud under fingernails dose not do a motor any good-
Its also a good idea to stuff a good quality paper towel into any area
where crud could fall in - (dirt - beer bottle cap- big flying bug etc )
make sure to pull out before spinning over motor so they dont get sucked in-
Wire gauges are Much more accurate and usually easier to use in tight places-
( wire gauges are thin round wires usually have a L bend in them )
When using feeler gauges get the-GO NO GO- type feeler gauges
the feeler gauge is made with 2 thickness on each gauge like
.008 and .009 --
above listed tool can be purchased from Snapon -Mac etc-
Dont use Chinese junk--
Also in one of the videos above you see a guy using a Z type feeler gauge
these work good and can be purchased from local shop and online-
and make things easier in tight spots
When setting screw type adjusters --when you tighten the Lock nut-
usually this will change the adjustment to Looser because
the clearance between the screw threads and rocker are are will be pulled tighter-
so Check clearance several times after spinning engine over a few times -
ALWAYS check clearance with Lock nut Fully tightened --
After doing this many times you will the feel just how much things will change-
If you can not get the clearance correct -set it Looser -
loose clearance wont cause any damage--
Clearance to Tight is asking for problems-
when reinstalling the the valve cover Make sure to wipe ALL mating surfaces
-cam plugs -clean of anything - this includes OIL --
having oil on the rubber gaskets
can cause leaks because the oil causes a capillary type action--
If your rubber gaskets are old its best to replace them -
but many times a THIN layer of Hi Temp silicon sealer can be used-
When I say Thin I mean THIN - If you can see sealer when engine cover
is tightened in place you have way to much-
It sealer squishes out - Globs of sealer will get into lube system
-plug things up and trash engine --
One small tube of sealer lasts me about 2 years when setting valves
on about 400 to 500 engines --
Also when the manual says to set the valves COLD they mean Cold-
let the engine cool off several hours --cooling can be sped up
by washing down the engine with the water hose --
but All the internal parts Must be at room temp --
Also you can us a magnet to remove shims on shim type adjusters -
Any Magnetism will be removed when valves are heated up in operation-
It you dont believe me -- get a magnet and heat it up -see what happens-
Have Fun --Jay--
hey guys i just picked up a 2010 ktm 690smc, i only have about 360 km on it and i'm starting to heir a ticking almost like the valves are out. Also this bike seems to hate going through town doesn't like to idle and there isn't much roll on with the throttle (its like whamm your on or your off), am i just really new to how this bike rides? i have been riding track and street for 9 years now! any info would be grate,,
whatsup with the sound? any similar videos?
Infact, when I had my 06 gsxr head ported and while rebuilding the head myself at machine shop I bead blasted all my ti intake and exhaust valves before installing them in new seats.
Bike worked like animal for year and I think it works still with new owner because I haven't heard a single complaint about the bike.
Well soon it will time to rebuild the top end. Remove the stock valve guides and valves.
The motor is stock. What should I do with it. Cams? Do you know a engine builder or shop to do the work in SO Cal. Also i want to replace stock exhaust. Is the stock exhaust that bad or heavy?
2010 KTM 690 smc
2003 r 1150rt BMW
2005 KTM 450 Smr
Sound for the video is gone. Any other Vids like this guys? Thanks.
'07 DR650.... currently being painted.
What is the best set up for my SXV 550 2009. It has full titanium Akraptovic and re map.
It is used for commuting and back roads, not raced.
I want it to be comfertable at 70 mph and yet the beast it has been re mapped for.
Please give me sprocket sizes that will suite.
I have 16 tooth and 46 at rear.
My rev limiter is set at 1250 is tht right and what is std for akrapovak.
Do the pistons and rings need changing at 6k as street use, it has had 500 mile oil changes and will continue at this rate. 1300 on clock now, when do the valves need adjusting? This has never been raced and is imaculate.
Also can a pressure switch for the brembo front brake leaver/ be wired straight into the original micro switch by cutting off and joining.
In other words when the break is off are both switches the same either circuit closed or open??
I had a problem with my bike I checked this link and adjust the valve and it runs well.
I really like this video as well:
Wow 8 years and this thread is still alive!