Fitting cast Katana mag wheels on a YZ (A how to)
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Thread: Fitting cast Katana mag wheels on a YZ (A how to)

  1. #1
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    Default Fitting cast Katana mag wheels on a YZ (A how to)

    In the interest of sharing, I decided to do another “how to” write up. As I did in my Electrical conversion thread, and my DIY carbon fiber thread, I will give you the disclaimer that I am no expert...in pretty much anything. I will do my best to answer any questions you guys may throw at me. That being said, let’s begin......

    First off, let me say that there is some machining that has has to be done, along with some welding of aluminum. It would be cost prohibitive to attempt this is you didn’t have access to machining and welding easily. As for me, I sold the set of supermoto wheels (with tires, brake rotor and bracket) that I had on the YZ previously, I used the proceeds to buy a set of SM wheels for my KTM, and I used the rest to buy a 3 in 1 milling, drilling, lathe machine from Harbor Freight. ($499, with a 20% off coupon) I got a buddy that can weld aluminum, and I already had the Katana wheels laying around, so the actual money I have tied up in this is minimal.

    I’m fitting a set of Suzuki Katana GS750F (99) wheels onto my 99 YZ400F.
    The front wheel was the easiest, so lets start there.

    First thing I did before I started was to measure the relationship between the front rotor and the brake caliper. I measured through the hole in caliper mounting bracket before I took off the previous wheel. (I forgot to take a pic when I started, but I took some after to illustrate my point)



    It was 34.47mm to the face of the rotor, so all I concerned myself with was making sure that rotor ended up in the same spot. I took off the old wheel and used a long 3/8 drive socket extension as a temporary axle and threw the Katana wheel on, along with one of the stock 30 mm spacers on the brake side. The rotor ended up being about 5mm further away from the bracket. So I used my lathe to turn down the stock spacer to the right dimension. After that, I measured the total width of the old setup, (1) 34mm spacer, (1) 30 mm spacer, and a total hub with 87 mm (measured at the inner races of the bearings.

    Next, I looked at the stock bearings of the Katana wheel. 6204 bearings were in there, which are 15 id x 42 od x 13 w. So I did a little research to find bearings that had the ID I wanted for my 20mm axle. 6004 bearings turned out to be what I got (20x42x12). Paid about $7 for them on ebay. Make sure you get SEALED bearings. Don’t get shielded (yes, there is a HUGE difference!)

    Next up, you need to make a spacer to go in between the two bearings, inside the hub. As where the bearing bottoms out in the bore won’t change, you can take the spacer that came out of your new wheel and measure the width of that. Make your new spacer to that width, and with the ID of your axle. I used a piece of 3/4” schedule 40 pipe. Turned down the ends with the lathe, and then slathered it with grease (to prevent it from rusting) and installed it along with the bearings.

    After putting those in, I measured my hub with, at the bearings. added in my 25 mm spacer I had made for the brake side, and came up with a 20mm spacer for the non brake side.

    The stock rotor on the Katana wheel is 290mm. I have to make a bracket to relocate my caliper, but I have a milling machine,so that won’t be a problem (evil laugh). I’ll get into that later.


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    Default Rear Wheel

    Now lets move to the rear wheel.

    Again, before I unbolted the previous wheel, I took every measurement I could think of.

    Being that the brake caliper bracket is partially held by the axle, I took the wheel off and laid it on the workbench. Using a straight edge across the outboard face of the rotor, I measured down to the inner race of the bearing. The only thing I concerned myself with at this point was making sure that brake relationship remained constant between the two wheels.

    Finding the right bearing for the rear wheel was hard. The stock Katana bearing OD was 47 mm, and having a 22mm axle on the back of my YZ, made the bearing I needed one of those hard to find, odd jobs. Turns out, after about 20 mins of searching on the internet, that the crank bearing off a 2006 Honda CRF250 was the exact size I needed, 22x42x14. Ordered two of them (Honda pn 91004-KSC-671) $15 in total. I got lucky in that there was a seal on one side of the bearing, I packed the backside with grease, and installed them with the seals out. Again, measure the spacer that came out from between the bearings on the wheels your putting on, and make a new spacer to fit in between the bearings.

    After I got the new bearings in, I measured the relationship between the rotor and bearing as I had with the YZ wheels, and made a spacer to put the rotor in the same spot it was in.

    Back stepping a bit, I had also measured the distance from the rotor to the inside of the sprocket on the YZ wheels. I put the cush drive on and measured the same dimension on the Katana wheels to figure out how much I’d have to machine off the cush drive to bring my sprocket into place.


    Onto the lathe it went, and amidst a pile fo aluminum shavings, the proper sized cush drive emerged.

    BEFORE

    AFTER


    In it’s past life, the sprocket was held to the cush drive with bolts. after removing the bolts, I was left with a 10mm id hole. I used 3/8 helicoil thread repair kit to put the threads into the cush drive. I have done this on all my aluminum block snowblower engines. Once you get the little steel coils in the aluminum, you can crank up the bolts pretty good and not worry about stripping the threads.

    Now the sprocket was another one of those pain in the ass things to find. The stock sprocket on the Katana was for 530 chain. After doing some research, I found that you can get a 520 conversion kit for the Katana. So it was a matter of finding a part number for the rear sprocket in that kit. Yes, it was a pain in the ass, but still alot easier than trying to drill a new bolt pattern, or make a YZ sprocket go on the Katana wheel.

    Again, as with the front wheel, make sure you measure the total width of the old rear wheel (both spacers + hub width at the bearings). Measure your hub with on the new wheel, add the brake side spacer width, and the difference is what you should make your sprocket side spacer at.

    I lucked out with the stock brake rotor on the Katana wheel, as it was the same size as the stock YZ rotor.

    Going to be taking the rear wheel to get the cush drive welded up this week, I’ll be sure to post up the rest of the project as it goes along.

    So far so good....

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    Nice shop!

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    Hey if you want some more rims to put together and hawk maybe I can find some for you reasonable like...lololol. Then you can make a little on the side and buy more swag.

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    Quote Originally Posted by hglenn55 View Post
    Hey if you want some more rims to put together and hawk maybe I can find some for you reasonable like...lololol. Then you can make a little on the side and buy more swag.
    Actually, I AM looking for another set of 17" wheels. A friend of mine left his DR350 with me for the winter. He wants me to do the same thing to his, been cruising feebay, but there aren't too many matching wheel sets on there. Was thinking about just going after them separately, but if you do have a set of wheels laying around let me know!!

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    nice build. what's the black bike up on the bench in the backround?

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    Quote Originally Posted by tallboy350 View Post
    nice build. what's the black bike up on the bench in the backround?
    That's a 1999 Yamaha R6. My official winter project. Got into a wreck. Picked it up for $500 (and yes, it runs!!). All the body work was toast. Stripped it down and painted the frame flat black. In the process of putting humpty dumpty back together again. Think I'm gonna go with the anniversary paint scheme..


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    Great job!

    What do you think the weight differences are?

    Where are you getting the custom sprocket made? Or does a 520 chain fit on a 530 sprocket since it is the same pitch but slightly wider?


    .
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    Thats so cool man, heck of a shop! What could be more fun than that, not to mention the rewards! Redoing an R6... an R6 for $500 and a boat load of labor? I'd do it! Super cool stuff, I want a shop and skills just like yours, which one day - I should have. For now its back to school.

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    Quote Originally Posted by apa View Post
    Great job!

    What do you think the weight differences are?

    Where are you getting the custom sprocket made? Or does a 520 chain fit on a 530 sprocket since it is the same pitch but slightly wider?


    .
    Not a custom sprocket, I did a whole bunch of cross referencing of part numbers. Found that JT sprockets makes a 520 conversion kit for the Katana, so did some hunting and found the right 520 sprocket (Parts unlimited #JTR823-39) Unfortunately, 39 tooth was my ONLY choice. I have previously been running 14/42 gearing. So I ordered a new 15 t countersprocket, making the new gearing 15/39. Should be in about the same neighborhood...I hope.

    As far as the weight goes, the cast wheels are heavier. But if I was worried about weight, I'd stop super sizing my meals at the drive through. Basically relegating the YZ to street use only, gonna be taking the KTM to the track from now on.

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    If you want to keep the same gearing as 14/42, you need a 13 tooth c/s sprocket to go with your 39 tooth rear sprocket. That would give you the exact same 3:1 ratio.

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    Quote Originally Posted by GuzziMoto View Post
    If you want to keep the same gearing as 14/42, you need a 13 tooth c/s sprocket to go with your 39 tooth rear sprocket. That would give you the exact same 3:1 ratio.
    Touche... Yeah, now that you mention, I was pretty far off the mark on that one. Good thing I have an array of different counter sprockets, 13, 14 (and now 15). I guess since it's the only one I can change out, it's a good thing I have a few.

    Thanks for pointing out my faults....you an my wife would get along great!!

    J/K, thanks for the heads up!

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    I have a 1977 XS650 Yamaha with a GS500 rear wheel on it. The XS used a 34 tooth spocket and the GS used a 43 or something. I called Sprocket Specialists and told them what I needed and got it about 3 weeks later.

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    Quote Originally Posted by whaler View Post
    Actually, I AM looking for another set of 17" wheels. A friend of mine left his DR350 with me for the winter. He wants me to do the same thing to his, been cruising feebay, but there aren't too many matching wheel sets on there. Was thinking about just going after them separately, but if you do have a set of wheels laying around let me know!!
    No I don't have a set but I know someone who might. I only have a set, maybe 2, of FZR 600 rims but I can't see anyone wanting a 18" rear I'll check with my bud tomorrow and see what he has and what he wants for them.

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    Default Save the Cush

    Is there no way to save the cush drive? The reason I ask is that I'm about to undertake a similar endeavor and would rather save the cush for all of it's original cush driving benefits and if I tweak a wheel I don't have to start over again.

    Also, can you include your yz wheel measurements? It's always nice to have a second set before you start cutting.

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    Quote Originally Posted by x1wagner View Post
    Is there no way to save the cush drive? The reason I ask is that I'm about to undertake a similar endeavor and would rather save the cush for all of it's original cush driving benefits and if I tweak a wheel I don't have to start over again.

    Also, can you include your yz wheel measurements? It's always nice to have a second set before you start cutting.
    Like I tell my wife, ANYTHING can can be done with enough time, effort, and money. It would be possible for me to use the cush. After machining it down, I machined a 2.25" dia recess into the end of the cush drive to accept a dust seal.


    I supposed I could have made that recess 56 mm in dia, and gone a little deeper to accept a 63/32 bearing (Industry number, actual dimensions are 22 mm ID x 56 mm OD x 16 mm). and then made a spacer to go in between the outboard bearing on the hub, to the inside of the cush. Then another to go between the cush bearing and the swingarm. That special weird bearing would run me in the neighborhood of $55!!

    (on a side note, looking for bearings? go HERE. You can quickly find out what bearing you need. Once you have the bearing number, shop around to see who has the best price!)

    I had thought about saving the cush, but considering I'm working with a Harbor Freight lathe/mill, I wasn't going to push it. While it was reasonably easy to get the cush drive in the lathe chuck perpendicular to the axis, I worried that it might not be spinning on dead center. The dust seal I'm installing has a rubber lip, that can take up for small variations. I worried about putting an awkward load on the cush bearing if the bore wasn't completely dead center. That being said, if you have access to a high quality machine, I'd say go for it. As for me, welding it is going to be far cheaper (12 pack of beer will get that done).

    I don't remember all the measurements of the spacers and such, I'll slip out to the "Garagemahal" tonight and get them for ya.

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    Whaler and I have been talking about this build for awhile. On the cush drive of my gs500 rims I lucked up. There is a little bushing that goes into the bearing on the cush that takes up the slack bettween the bearing (25mm) and the axle (20mm) on my dr 350. The bushing on the gs500 was 17mm but I pulled that bushin out and used the dr350 one. It was a perfect fit I was superlucky. and I kept the cush drive intact. didn't have to weld it.

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    Whaler,

    This thread is great and I really appreciate your time on the project and the measurement info!

    Same goes to anyone else contributing!

    Josh

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    Quote Originally Posted by x1wagner View Post
    Whaler,

    This thread is great and I really appreciate your time on the project and the measurement info!

    Same goes to anyone else contributing!

    Josh
    Whaler is doing the real stuff. I just used a grinder and a heat gun. And some bearings. His is definately good stuff. I think him and kubiak and the other guys that have learned the machining and welding are the soul of this niche industry segment. I think we should have an innovation award for stuff like this and other cool ideas every so often. Maybe a poll section for coolness. Jsut speaking out loud with my cold medicine kicking in. This is WAY more interesting than american chopper/superbikes ever thought about being.

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    Quote Originally Posted by x1wagner View Post
    Also, can you include your yz wheel measurements? It's always nice to have a second set before you start cutting.
    OK, let's see here...
    Stock YZ front wheel..

    Measuring through the hole in the caliper bracket, it was 38.47mm to the outboard face of the rotor
    Brake side spacer 30mm
    Hub width (at inner races of bearings) 68mm
    Non brake side spacer 34mm
    For a total width of 132mm (spacers & hub)

    Katana wheel
    Brake side spacer 25mm
    Hub width 87mm
    non brake side spacer 20mm
    For a total width of 132mm

    Rear Stock yz wheel

    Brake side spacer 20mm
    Hub width 133mm
    non brake side spacer 20mm
    I had also been using a 5mm washer next to the non brake side spacer, so let's say a 25 mm spacer for that side.
    Distance from the outboard side of the brake rotor, to the outboard side of the sprocket 168mm (I had used a 5mm spacing ring on the sprocket in the old set up to help the chain clear the rear tire, see pics below)

    Katana Rear wheel
    Brake side spacer 22.5mm
    Hub width (with no cush) 114mm
    Cush side spacer 41mm
    I ended up having to turn 18 mm off of the cush drive from the plane where the sprocket bolts on.

    Here is what I was talking about with the spacers on the old sprocket set up. Transfered the same dimensions over to the Katana wheel (apples for apples I guess)


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    Quote Originally Posted by pookiebear View Post
    Whaler is doing real stuff. I just used a grinder and a heat gun. And some bearings. His is definately good stuff. I think him and kubiak and the other guys that have learned the machining and welding are the soul of this niche industry segment. I think we should have an innovation award for stuff like this and other cool ideas every so often. Maybe a poll section for coolness. Jsut speaking out loud with my cold medicine kicking in. This is WAY more interesting than american chopper/superbikes ever thought about being.
    Damn, I'm blushing!!

    I'm just an idiot who is not afraid to try anything.

    Hell if you like this, you'd love the carbon fiber shell I made for my tank to keep my graphics from bubbling.....


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    Quote Originally Posted by pookiebear View Post
    I think him and kubiak and the other guys that have learned the machining and welding are the soul of this niche industry segment. [...] This is WAY more interesting than american chopper/superbikes ever thought about being.
    +1

    Awesome build and awesome write up. It's people like you guys who grab the bull by the horns and make it easy for the rest of us. I commend you. Sooner or later I'm going to build a budget tard and I look forward to using the valuable information like this available on this site.


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    Quote Originally Posted by whaler View Post
    Not a custom sprocket, I did a whole bunch of cross referencing of part numbers. Found that JT sprockets makes a 520 conversion kit for the Katana, so did some hunting and found the right 520 sprocket (Parts unlimited #JTR823-39) Unfortunately, 39 tooth was my ONLY choice. I have previously been running 14/42 gearing. So I ordered a new 15 t countersprocket, making the new gearing 15/39. Should be in about the same neighborhood...I hope.
    One of my sponsors is PMP (Precision Motorcycle Products) If you are looking for a custom sprocket you can give them a call. Barry or Kim would be able to help you out and make any sprocket you need.

    Just let them know that Blayne sent ya.

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    Awesome write up!

    On a side note: The Can-A-Tuna (er, katana) uses the exact same front rim as the GS500 and pretty much the same rear rim. Call me crazy, but I'd bet that a GS500 rear sprocket would bolt right up to that rear rim you have. Instant 520 chain conversion, no extra wait or cash needed.

    - Erik

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    Quote Originally Posted by EMathy View Post
    Awesome write up!

    On a side note: The Can-A-Tuna (er, katana) uses the exact same front rim as the GS500 and pretty much the same rear rim. Call me crazy, but I'd bet that a GS500 rear sprocket would bolt right up to that rear rim you have. Instant 520 chain conversion, no extra wait or cash needed.

    - Erik
    Your exactly right. The sprocket I ordered (parts unlimited number JTR823-39) fits the gs500, along with the gs600 and "can of tuna". The only problem was I could only find it in the 39 tooth flavor.

    I have it already, gonna try different size countersprockets when the snow thaws. Thanks to everybody who offered suggestions about how to get different size rear sprockets. It may come in handy down the road (or for some of the other brave souls who may be using this tread as research).

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    Whaler I looked for a set of rims...no joy. He didn't have anything except...FZR rims. Go figure

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    Quote Originally Posted by whaler View Post
    Not a custom sprocket, I did a whole bunch of cross referencing of part numbers. Found that JT sprockets makes a 520 conversion kit for the Katana, so did some hunting and found the right 520 sprocket (Parts unlimited #JTR823-39) Unfortunately, 39 tooth was my ONLY choice. I have previously been running 14/42 gearing. So I ordered a new 15 t countersprocket, making the new gearing 15/39. Should be in about the same neighborhood...I hope.
    I did a similar conversion a few years back. If you'd like more freedom, Vortex makes the sprocket(s) you need. You can get them from 39 to 53 teeth for around $60. They even make over-sized sprockets for a few dollars more if you care to mess around with slow wheelies/parking lot stuff. I was running 14/54 on my YZ for the slow stuff and it was ridiculous!

    http://www.vortexracing.com/index.ph...ister&submenu=

    I take pride in my own work and obviously you do too. I commend you for the nice, clean conversion. I dig it
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    GO BLUE!

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    Default Update

    Well it's been a little while, but I've made some progress, and some revelations.....

    1st off. Spent a great deal of time playing with the mill, making a brake relocater bracket for the front wheel to match the 290 mm rotor on the katana wheel. The previous bracket I had with my old set up bolted to the back of the bracket on the fork leg. With the smaller diameter rotor, doing it that way would have been to thin, so I used some heilicoils to put threads on the fork leg bracket and came around the other side. Kinda looks like crap, but it was the first time I had ever done anything like that. Have all winter to make a prettier one.


    As for the rear wheel, hindsight is truly 20/20. I had machined the cush drive down perfect and got it welded on. The big problem was that after it was welded, it was no longer true. Whether it warped while being welded, or was just welded a little off, either way, it was going to be un-usable as it was. The whole welded wheel was way too big to fit in my little lathe, so I took it to a machine shop. They put it on their lathe and turned the face of the cush drive so it was true, which ran me $60. They only had to take off a few thousandths, so luckily the sprocket position didn't change enough to screw me.

    In retrospect, I should have done the extra work to keep the cush drive.



    Next up for me, I'll be fitting some old GS700 (?) wheels on a friends' 95 DR350. After that, I have another buddy who wants some CBR wheels on an old KX500. Looks like I'll be pretty busy this winter. I'll be sure to post up how everything goes with those conversions as well....


    SAVE THE CUSH DRIVE!!!!

  31. #29
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    Hey,
    When i made my front caliper bracket, i milled down a thick piece of 6061 so it had a step in it. When viewed from above, it is Z shaped. So the stock caliper mounting bolts thread into it, and then the new caliper mounting bolts slip through it and thread into the caliper. Follow me? It not only looks better, but it is much stronger and stiffer than what you have now. I'll try to take a pic and post it.

    Pat
    Zook
    lots of bikes............
    1974 Porsche 911-ass engined Nazi slot car
    a couple of jet ski's

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    I feel ya on that super size thing lol! Food for thought, check out iron pony, or VORTEX.com, they make all kinds of different sprocket tooth counts for all bikes. I have a gixxer 1000 I drag race and have 5 different gear set-ups for it for different tracks, tires, and track conditions. I like the anniversary paint on the yammys, but a polish job on that frame would look even sweeter. Same with those KAT wheels on your YZ, they would look sweet polished out too. I'd like to see some done pics on it, keep me posted. Oh, if you decide to have anything polished, hit me up. I own a polishing shop here in Ohio, and would be glad to hook you up cheap!!!
    Time's not wasted if your wasted all the time...
    2002 GSXR 1043 on spray
    2006 GSXR 1000 planning on boosting it...
    1999 Yamaha YZ400f a.k.a. da toy (future sumo bike)

  33. #31
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    That wasnt a business plug, just trying to hook up some sumo buddies...
    Time's not wasted if your wasted all the time...
    2002 GSXR 1043 on spray
    2006 GSXR 1000 planning on boosting it...
    1999 Yamaha YZ400f a.k.a. da toy (future sumo bike)

  34. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by INSANEBA View Post
    I own a polishing shop here in Ohio, and would be glad to hook you up cheap!!!
    Is there an Ohio State fan discount?

    My dog.....Buckeye....


    I had thought about polishing the frame on the R6, I did it on my old SV650. I wanted to try something a little different.....



    I'll keep you in mind though....gots to be something that needs some polishin' around here......

  35. #33
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    Do that, and about the buckeye discount, you bet.lol. I have to admit, that matte black looks pretty stealthy, I like it. I did a frame for a guy last winter that he had sprayed orange annodizing paint on. It looked horrible before I blasted it, but much better blinged. Sweet looking pup too, Sheps are the best...
    Time's not wasted if your wasted all the time...
    2002 GSXR 1043 on spray
    2006 GSXR 1000 planning on boosting it...
    1999 Yamaha YZ400f a.k.a. da toy (future sumo bike)

  36. #34
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    Quote Originally Posted by whaler View Post
    Is there an Ohio State fan discount?

    My dog.....Buckeye....
    Ohio State....gross! haha, all in good fun
    '08 Yamaha YZ450F
    '02 Honda CBR600F4i
    '00 Honda VTR1000F Streetfighter

    GO BLUE!

  37. #35
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    Well, we wont hate on you for going there for an education, but you have to admit...We owned your asses...lol...It's great being part of the largest rivalry in sports history....Especially on the winning end...lol...
    Time's not wasted if your wasted all the time...
    2002 GSXR 1043 on spray
    2006 GSXR 1000 planning on boosting it...
    1999 Yamaha YZ400f a.k.a. da toy (future sumo bike)

  38. #36
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    Bump for an Awesome thread and an even Better Guy!!!

    Jamie

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    Apr 2008
    Posts
    89

    Default

    I bought this sweet ride offa Greg midsummer, and I have to say I LOVE IT. Coolest toy out there. Gets so many comments, people love the wheels and the graphics. SICK BIKE!! swapped out the 13 front tooth for a 15 but don't worry she still rips that front wheel up!
    1999 YZ400 SM

  40. #38
    Join Date
    Sep 2008
    Posts
    118

    Default

    Ive got a matching set of rims off of a 2000 kawasaki zx7. I was going to mod them for my ktm 520 but i acquired 17x3.5 and 17x5 wheel blanks that im going to turn into custom wheels. Anyone interested ill sell for 150 for the pair.

  41. #39
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    Posts
    11

    Default

    Hay thanks for the great idea to use Kanatuna wheels for my supernoto conversion on my KTM. It was the cheep way to get on the street. i picked up a set of wheels off craigslist for 100 bucks with new tires on them and found the burring for 40 bucks or so online. as far as machining all i did was take an inch or so off the cush drive.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  42. #40
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Sunshine Coast, QLD Australia
    Posts
    2

    Question Nice KTM

    Hi,

    Like the KTM conversion mate. Did you keep the Cush or did you weld it up like Whale did?

    I have the same Katana wheels and I am trying to work out how to modify them for my DRZ but i want to keep the cush, the problem is I don't think I will get enough internal space to add a Cush bearing.

    Any Ideas??

    GB

  43. #41
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    187

    Default

    Hi Kiwi (cuzy bro) Have a look at this site for info. Flick them an email if you have any questions as they are really helpful. They are local (Brisbane) too.
    http://home.exetel.com.au/bkm/cast-w...-drz/index.htm
    2009 KTM 690 SM.
    Mivv Suono Mufflers, Akra Maps, K&N Air Filter, CRG LS Mirrors, Sharp Swingarm Spools, Mustard Tail Tidy, KTM Duke C/F Hugger, KTM Axle Sliders, KTM Fork Bleeders, KTM 15T Front Sprocket and a Oregon HD camera. A set of BT090s totally shagged at 3000klm but the BT016s are hangin on well.

  44. #42
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
    Location
    Sunshine Coast, QLD Australia
    Posts
    2

    Default

    Hay Jinx,

    Thanks for putting that link on, I was going to do it but I forgot to copy it then I got lazy and couldn't navigate to it while writing my thread. I have studied it a heap over the last year - yes I got my rims two Winters ago then got too busy with a new born and work - doh!! stupid work and babies!!

    I intend buying their DRZ info pack with lazer cut disk adaptor and caliper bracket - this will save some time.

    Going to grind down my cush drive tomorrow, I think I have my head around what to do now.

    I am also going to use those Honda 22x47x14mm crank bearings Whaler recommended in the hub and cush drive , I will get the internal surface of the cush lathed down to fit them in the bit between the old 62mm cush bearing and the interface to the hub..

    I might get Noosa Metal Fabricators to laser cut a new 230mm rear disk. I get themt o do stuff for work and they are good and cheap. I will post the CAD drawing if I take this option.

    GB

  45. #43
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Brisbane Australia
    Posts
    187

    Default

    Sounds like its coming together Kiwi. Have to meet up for a ride sometime.
    2009 KTM 690 SM.
    Mivv Suono Mufflers, Akra Maps, K&N Air Filter, CRG LS Mirrors, Sharp Swingarm Spools, Mustard Tail Tidy, KTM Duke C/F Hugger, KTM Axle Sliders, KTM Fork Bleeders, KTM 15T Front Sprocket and a Oregon HD camera. A set of BT090s totally shagged at 3000klm but the BT016s are hangin on well.

  46. #44
    Join Date
    Jan 2011
    Posts
    1

    Default Rear Set

    Dude, where did you get those rear sets from with the cut out R6??? I've got to have those!

    Quote Originally Posted by whaler View Post
    Is there an Ohio State fan discount?

    My dog.....Buckeye....


    I had thought about polishing the frame on the R6, I did it on my old SV650. I wanted to try something a little different.....



    I'll keep you in mind though....gots to be something that needs some polishin' around here......

  47.  
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