160 tire fitament...4.25" or 5" - Page 5
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Thread: 160 tire fitament...4.25" or 5"

  1. #201
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    I run a 4.25 on my KTM and a 160 slick and it's spot on, no chain wear, get full use out of the tyre and haven't once had it step out on me, front goes first!
    2007 Honda CRF450X

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  3. #202
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    Quote Originally Posted by robeanho View Post
    I run a 4.25 on my KTM and a 160 slick and it's spot on, no chain wear, get full use out of the tyre and haven't once had it step out on me, front goes first!
    Got any pics? which 160 are you running?

    Brian, i laced up a 5" on my rmz with a 165 on the rear. my suspension will be in from Dave at fbi today or tomorrow and ill hit the track with it this sunday. Thanks for the thread and the links to the rmz with a 5". I was half considering a 160 on my 4.25" but i did it right(hopefully). Right now my rim is laced up centered but im going to offset it to the brake side 1/2 turn to try and get some more chain clearance. Any thoughts if its really needed? The axle is pretty far back now...
    Last edited by shift1313; 03-07-2012 at 06:31 AM.
    Matt
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  4. #203
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    Quote Originally Posted by shift1313 View Post
    Got any pics? which 160 are you running?
    16/63 Michelin SMR29B, sits rather tidily on the rim I must say, never had an issue with it.
    Only picture I have showing the wheel(ish) from facebook, will find more when I get on my comp after work
    http://desmond.imageshack.us/Himg848...jpg&res=medium
    Having one try to upload/get the picture to work, so there's a link! haha
    2007 Honda CRF450X

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  6. #204
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    Quote Originally Posted by shift1313 View Post
    Got any pics? which 160 are you running?

    Brian, i laced up a 5" on my rmz with a 165 on the rear. my suspension will be in from Dave at fbi today or tomorrow and ill hit the track with it this sunday. Thanks for the thread and the links to the rmz with a 5". I was half considering a 160 on my 4.25" but i did it right(hopefully). Right now my rim is laced up centered but im going to offset it to the brake side 1/2 turn to try and get some more chain clearance. Any thoughts if its really needed? The axle is pretty far back now...
    try 4 half turns to start.....don't forget to loosen off the side you are moving away from the chain first.....I'd take a wild ass guess and say 8 half turns total is needed...make sure your axel is half way... at least.. you need room to tighten the chain after time....or If it were me I'd go all the way up with the axel blocks at the short side..shortest wheel base you can muster...not only look at the upper chain but check the lower chain as well..... I will tell you a story when I have time to what I did with my lower chain block..lemme know how it turns out
    Brian # 30


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  7. #205
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    Quote Originally Posted by brian View Post
    try 4 half turns to start.....don't forget to loosen off the side you are moving away from the chain first.....I'd take a wild ass guess and say 8 half turns total is needed...make sure your axel is half way... at least.. you need room to tighten the chain after time....or If it were me I'd go all the way up with the axel blocks at the short side..shortest wheel base you can muster...not only look at the upper chain but check the lower chain as well..... I will tell you a story when I have time to what I did with my lower chain block..lemme know how it turns out
    My suspension came in today so i can finally put the bike back together tonight. Ill give 4 half turns a shot, thanks. my plan was to slide it all the way forward before adjusting anything. I think my clearance is tight on the brake side with it forward...
    Matt
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    Quote Originally Posted by brian View Post
    try 4 half turns to start.....don't forget to loosen off the side you are moving away from the chain first.....I'd take a wild ass guess and say 8 half turns total is needed...make sure your axel is half way... at least.. you need room to tighten the chain after time....or If it were me I'd go all the way up with the axel blocks at the short side..shortest wheel base you can muster...not only look at the upper chain but check the lower chain as well..... I will tell you a story when I have time to what I did with my lower chain block..lemme know how it turns out
    Brian, I ended up leaving the the rim centered. When I pushed it all the way forward I had very little clearance on the brake side of the tire with the S/A. If i end up running a wider slick like a 170(this maxxis is 165/56) i want to have the room. I ended up with a small amount of clearance with the chain once the rim was adjusted for the chain slack. I also adjusted the guide block to hopefully keep the chain slap down. We will see how it does sunday...
    Matt
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    Brian, the 165 on the 5" rim centered worked great on this bike(can't say the same for the front). I also can't forget to thank dave at fbi for the suspension setup The front was a shinko :( but the rear was a soft maxxis presa. Almost zero chain slap on the tire. there are a few marks but it didnt really take any off. Im happy with it!
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  10. #208
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    how cool when you don't have to dick with it some wheel guys will do the offset for you w/o mentioning it
    Brian # 30


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    Quote Originally Posted by brian View Post
    how cool when you don't have to dick with it some wheel guys will do the offset for you w/o mentioning it
    Yeah im glad i took the time to really measure things out before trying to offset it. Im also glad i was able to use the rear tire. I was worried cause it was a very round profile tire with some steep sidewalls but all is well. I know its not the best tire(i don't know but im told) but for $75 the maxxis presa rear i thought stuck really well.
    Matt
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  12. #210
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    Items for Sale

    Default Ktm swingarms

    Does a 2006 625sm have the same swingarm as a 2006 450exc?

  13. #211
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    Wink Rexfelgen 5.5" rear

    Can I squeeze a 5.5" wheel on my 450 exc, 2006.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flybryguy View Post
    Does a 2006 625sm have the same swingarm as a 2006 450exc?
    no

    Quote Originally Posted by Flybryguy View Post
    Can I squeeze a 5.5" wheel on my 450 exc, 2006.
    yes but unless you're a trackday fanatic or racer it's not worth the extra hassle

  15. #213
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    I have just finished fitting a 5" rimmed rear wheel to my Husky SM610. I have been using 160/60's on the OEM 4.25 rear rim, which was OK, but what a difference the 5" rim makes. giving the tyre a much bigger contact patch.

    Absolutely brilliant! Loads of reassuring consistent feel when turning in and excellent hook up on the way out of corners.

    I would recommend a 5" rear rim when running 160/60's every time!

    Pirelli Dragon Supercorsa 160/60 measures 157mm on the 4.25" and 163mm on the 5". For anyone with possible clearance issues!
    Last edited by Twin Fields; 06-04-2012 at 08:01 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shift1313 View Post
    Brian, the 165 on the 5" rim centered worked great on this bike(can't say the same for the front). I also can't forget to thank dave at fbi for the suspension setup The front was a shinko :( but the rear was a soft maxxis presa. Almost zero chain slap on the tire. there are a few marks but it didnt really take any off. Im happy with it!
    Matt..the maxxis 165 is as wide as a truck tire. It'll hit something for sure. Maybe next time get a Bstone SM 165 slick. Fits alot better and out-handles the maxxis all day.
    Good call having Dave set-up your gig. He has the touch for sure.
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  17. #215
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skully25 View Post
    yes but unless you're a trackday fanatic or racer it's not worth the extra hassle
    +1
    Getting a street tire to fit will be a labor of experimentation, frustration, and money.
    Kicks ass on the track with slicks though, but you need to be patient with fitment.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Chase View Post
    Matt..the maxxis 165 is as wide as a truck tire. It'll hit something for sure. Maybe next time get a Bstone SM 165 slick. Fits alot better and out-handles the maxxis all day.
    Good call having Dave set-up your gig. He has the touch for sure.
    Chase, ive got a set of GT softs on there for this weekend. The rear is a 162 and is much more narrow. One thing i instantly noticed was how rigid the carcass of the tires were. The bstones were super pliable where the GTs felt stiffer than my DOT contis. Hopefully they stick well. ill find out sunday
    Matt
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    Default 5" rim on my 450x

    I have a 5 inch rim that works on my 450x. I have set up the rear wheel on the bike and Everything works well. The chain clearance is tight but works fine.
    My question is the wheelset I have is set up with track tires I belive michelin 160-60-17 and they Also say they are tubeless. MY rims are Excell. I would like to use the avon distanzia if possible for occasional dirt roads. dose anyone have any recomendations on tires with this size rim on a 2005 CRf 450x.
    Are these wheels actually set up tubeless? Should I run these track tires at all or will they be dangerous on the street before they get warm?

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    the tires are meant to me tubeless like pretty much all tires.. its the wheel set that has to be modified to be tubeless.... Avon distanzia's will work well for the street.....both avon and michy are big for the stamped size..
    Brian # 30


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    Ide love to see a list put together of different manufacturers tires widths on a 5 inch. State the stamped width then an actual measurement in mm. Ive got a maxxis presa 165/56 on a 5inch excel and theres at least 10mm clearance brake side and 8mm from chain. ill dig out the calipers tonight but i want to fill those voids with my next tire. 08 510 btw

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    one of my race mates has such a list... I'll see If he still has it...
    Brian # 30


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    whats everybody running up front? ive got a 120/80 but found a deal on a 140... too big?

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    Quote Originally Posted by yamahaulass02 View Post
    whats everybody running up front? ive got a 120/80 but found a deal on a 140... too big?
    WAY too big.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Twin Fields View Post
    I have just finished fitting a 5" rimmed rear wheel to my Husky SM610. I have been using 160/60's on the OEM 4.25 rear rim, which was OK, but what a difference the 5" rim makes. giving the tyre a much bigger contact patch.

    Absolutely brilliant! Loads of reassuring consistent feel when turning in and excellent hook up on the way out of corners.

    I would recommend a 5" rear rim when running 160/60's every time!

    Pirelli Dragon Supercorsa 160/60 measures 157mm on the 4.25" and 163mm on the 5". For anyone with possible clearance issues!
    excellent !
    Brian # 30


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    Default Shaving and math

    For the guys shaving tires to clear chains, it was mentioned a block plane can be helpful. These are about $5-7 at any hobby shop and take up a lot less space in a tool box. Might be worth trying. I don't have any affiliation with these guys, just had one of those planes since I was 14 years old.
    http://masterairscrew.com/razorplane.aspx


    I'm relatively new to bikes, but a serious tire nerd when there are four of them on the vehicle. So this thread makes a lot of sense. If you assume that 180s are optimized for 5.5s, since that's standard in the 600 sport bike world, here is a chart showing the relationship between tire and rim width for various combinations. Of course, manufacturers will design their tires slightly differently, so this can only be directional at best, but it does kind of frame up a lot of the comments in this thread. Hope it helps.



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    just installed 160 on my 4,25 rim on my husq 630
    no problem

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    Quote Originally Posted by Sanaga View Post
    just installed 160 on my 4,25 rim on my husq 630
    no problem
    i dont think there's never been a debate on if it will fit. The debate has been on the performance advantage/disadvantage of it.

    how many 100 miles do you have on it?
    chicken strips gone?
    how many track days?


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    I would challenge some of the values on the chart particularly, (so I'm not trying to split hairs but) the 5.5 from a 5 inch with a 160...as most of the fastest guys on the planet use the 5.5 or 5.4 on a 170/160 Dunny of Michy...for the best contact area possible...I know myself making that jump has been a very noticeable difference... but in my opinion I think that chart as you mentioned gives a good illustration of the point for sure...using a block plane when there has been so much discussion about bushings for Marchy's as well spoke offset for spoked wheels to clear the chain with chain guards as well... using a plane is nuts, might as well leave a narrower tire on rather than taking rubber off....not to mention you destroy the intended curve and shape of the tire specially at the point when you have a peg dragging and you inside another fellow going for the pass..get to the point where the edge drops off with no warning... I like the chart as mentioned it really drives the basics home...the original intent was to get track guys off 4.25's and onto 5's when using 160's .. then we got into street bikes and different profiles...I really need to repost some pictures.. sorry i have been lazy...




    Quote Originally Posted by FRECNDY View Post
    For the guys shaving tires to clear chains, it was mentioned a block plane can be helpful. These are about $5-7 at any hobby shop and take up a lot less space in a tool box. Might be worth trying. I don't have any affiliation with these guys, just had one of those planes since I was 14 years old.
    http://masterairscrew.com/razorplane.aspx


    I'm relatively new to bikes, but a serious tire nerd when there are four of them on the vehicle. So this thread makes a lot of sense. If you assume that 180s are optimized for 5.5s, since that's standard in the 600 sport bike world, here is a chart showing the relationship between tire and rim width for various combinations. Of course, manufacturers will design their tires slightly differently, so this can only be directional at best, but it does kind of frame up a lot of the comments in this thread. Hope it helps.


    Brian # 30


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    "Everyday is a good day" Just some days are better than others

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    Regarding the plane, I assumed nobody would think of shaving more than whiskers and the mold parting lines, about 1/8-in of material max, perpendicular to the axle line, just to keep the chain from having to do it. Shouldn't make any meaningful difference in contact area on the road or integrity/stiffness of the cap plies. In the car world, shaving race tires down to 3/32-in starting tread depth is SOP to get the best, most consistent performance and longest life out of a set of race tires. I didn't view this as even coming close to that. Though personally, I'd rather just start with a combination that fits.

  32. #230
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    taking down the tread thickness on a car tire to alleviate tire squirm is a different deal altogether...taking "any" rubber off a bike tire is not needed other than grooving...hence the reason for the thread in the first place..
    Brian # 30


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    Default TE449 and rear tire choices...

    Hi guys this is a great thread and after reading I wish I had gotten a 150 rear....
    Anyway, I have a 2013 TE449 Husky that I ordered SM wheels for. Again, after reading this thread... I would have chosen a 5" rear rim rather than the 4.25.
    I was wondering if anyone out there has had any tire clearance issues with a 160/60-17 (I got the Michelin 2CT Race) on the new BMWvarnas..? It will be interesting to see how this bike is as a supermoto after owning the SM510R, 610SM , DRZ400SM, and a sumo'd Yamaha WR400..
    Any other advice/opinions/etc on the TE449 as a sumo would be great to hear-if there is another thread or whatever I'd love a linky...
    Thanks!
    13 Husky TE449 dual sport/sumo
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    I'm getting ready to buy some wheels for my Xr250r and don't know if I should go with a 4.25 or a 5" rear?
    I don't think I'll run anything bigger than a 150, as this will be a daily rider, and will still see offroad trail duty. My other thought was that with such a light bike, more surface area may not be such a great thing if I hit some rain or a gravel road as it will more likely slip.
    Just like my big tires on my jeep CJ, that thing gets real squirrely in the rain with it being so light and having wide rubber.

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    I doubt a 5" rim will fit an XR250, and if it does, it will be tight. 150 tire fits good on a 4.25.

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    Default change from 4.25 ro 5"

    OK, Brian et all, I'm listening to you preach. I have a 4.25" excel on excel hub. when looking around on the 'net, all rims I see are assembled wheels. can I just buy a 5" hoop somewhere and have a local guy swap it and lace it up for me?

    (OR, would it make sense $ to sell my 4.25 and buy a 5")

    running on a track only 05 crf X btw

    thanks, guys

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    Not sure what someone charges to do that.....I guess you can get the hoop, take off the old one and take it to a fellow to do that..I have swapped out an excel superlite from a 5 to a 5.5 using the same spokes, compensated for the offset.. took an hour..that was my first time..works perfect, made the wheel tubeless as well.... I dunno get a GOOD spoke wrench and give it a try...
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    Default To 160 or not to 160? That is the question.

    Hi. Thought I’d weigh in with a little bit of info.
    I put a 160 Pirelli SC’1 on the 4 ¼ back rim of my Huski 630 SM. It cleared everything fine. It didn’t look pinched to me. I was able to scrape the footrests out on the road fairly easy. There was just a couple of mm left unscrubbed to the edge of the tread, front and back. A huge improvement on the Diablo’s fitted as standard. I had no trouble “working” some heat into these tyres. Even though the dealer warned me that the Huski was to light for the SC 1’s, and wouldn’t be able to use them properly. Not true. I found that tyre choice is limited if you want to stick to a 150.
    So just go ahead slap a 160 on .What’s the worst that could happen?!! A 5 inch rim is bound to weigh more than a 4 1/4 and the weight is right where you dont want it, unsprung, with a high moment of inertia. Yeah a 160 tyre weighs more than a 150. But life is always a compromise. I had 30 pounds of air in each tyre. I tried letting some out, to lighten the bike. But now I have a broken collar bone. Why ????
    Is this where I put a list of all the bikes I want you to think I have owned ?
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  39. #237
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    I've got the opposite issue. I have a 5.5"/180 stock and plan on going down to a 160 on my rim. Not sure which tire to get yet. Right now I'm still planning on a PP 2 CT since I still ride on the street.

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    No no dude 6 half turns to start .....



    Quote Originally Posted by shift1313 View Post
    Got any pics? which 160 are you running?

    Brian, i laced up a 5" on my rmz with a 165 on the rear. my suspension will be in from Dave at fbi today or tomorrow and ill hit the track with it this sunday. Thanks for the thread and the links to the rmz with a 5". I was half considering a 160 on my 4.25" but i did it right(hopefully). Right now my rim is laced up centered but im going to offset it to the brake side 1/2 turn to try and get some more chain clearance. Any thoughts if its really needed? The axle is pretty far back now...
    Brian # 30


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    So from what I've seen on this thread, it's a silly illusion, specially for street tards, to try to fit 160 or larger tires, because they will either rub the chain or be very curved?

    I have a 11 Husaberg FS 570 which came with a 4.24 rim, 150/70 tire, which I was thinking could be larger..

    160-180 on a 4.25" will make it too curved, right?
    5" rim + 180/55 will rub the chain? What about adherence, manoeuvrability?

    Thanks!

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    on the FS I'd go 5 inch rear wheel with a 160 and call it good... DOT rear will be about as much as that spar will handle and give you a great profile....never tied a 180 DOT on a 5 inch but I can almost guarantee it will be too much
    Brian # 30


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    Hey Brian (et all), you seem to be in the know on a lot of this stuff... I too just bought an '11 Berg FS570... it's en-route to my house now. Plan is to ride some street, but also race it on a [short] roadrace course next year. Been looking for wheel options and what slicks to run. I'm a Dunlop snob and don't plan to change that... so in essence looks like I'll be running their UK slick (165/55) which I love their UK's anyway. So I've been wanting to find a 5" wheel but have no idea if I can just go on Motostrano and just buy a 5" or and it'll bolt right up?... their website says they have them for the "Husaberg-All-FE/FC"... not sure what the FC is... but I'm guessing this would fit my bike w/out issue and I'm guessing (your thoughts here?) that the 165 would be fine. Then I was thinking I'd go with a 17" front, but noticed the option for the 16.5" and wondered if I'd notice a difference.

    I'm an avid roadracer, so I know what "feel" is on the track. Raced a couple AMA races, so pace is fine (on a superbike style roadracer).

    EDIT: I should add too that I really want the extra set of wheels I purchase to be tubeless and am not clear that is possible with the Excels or similar... although my spoke wheels on the Berg are tubeless.

    Thoughts?
    Last edited by 1000RR; 08-28-2013 at 04:29 PM.

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    Call joe and ask for sure about the wheel I think fine but pls double check the FS is the same but 25 mm shorter ......165 on a 5 inch will fit no problem.... If you are doing track days grab a 16.5 front..... tire is a kr 106 465 compound for soft that rear needs to be a soft as its a road race tire ......the 17 front is good for dot tire selection for street .... I have made three sets of spoked tires tubeless now.....adjusters should be on the short side and approx a nut thickness off all the way in maybe a couple mm further out
    Last edited by brian; 08-28-2013 at 09:14 PM.
    Brian # 30


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    i thought id chime back in here. on my ktm(2012 450) im running a 5.5 rear centered running a dunlop 250gp/sm tire(165) on it. i made a small chain guard using the guard off a 500exc but the chain never hit the guard, tire or rim! I didnt take any after the track pics but here is a before.



    we had a table top and a few doubles in the dirt section so i know my suspension got a work out. Grip was amazing. Wasnt pushing too hard with the setup because im still setting up the bike, but never felt loose. Love it!

    running a 16.5 front and 5.5 rear Alpina tubeless setup.

    edit.



    Last edited by shift1313; 12-03-2013 at 06:04 PM.
    Matt
    11 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    12 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    www.fastbikeindustries.com

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    So what psi ? That wear/heat looks really good .... I like the 165 the 170 was the shit the 165 compound really stays consistent I'm really happy your setup worked out so well congrats
    Brian # 30


    KTM 450 SMR

    "Everyday is a good day" Just some days are better than others

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    Quote Originally Posted by brian View Post
    So what psi ? That wear/heat looks really good .... I like the 165 the 170 was the shit the 165 compound really stays consistent I'm really happy your setup worked out so well congrats
    I was running 22psi on the warmers. I was trying to sort the rest of the bike so I didn't play with other pressures. Dunlop suggested 21cold rear and like 30 cold front....I was really happy with the bike, even with mx setup suspension/sag. Just wanted a baseline. Brakes are awesome. I was,braking way too early(berringer 6 pot). Can't wait for next season.
    Last edited by shift1313; 12-05-2013 at 07:54 AM.
    Matt
    11 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    12 ktm450 sxf/smr #314
    www.fastbikeindustries.com

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    I run about 24 and 28 hot seems to be the ticket for me....more than 28 on a 16.5 front gets a little twitchy for me, particularly when I'm reaching around for a beer ....
    Brian # 30


    KTM 450 SMR

    "Everyday is a good day" Just some days are better than others

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    Unsure if this would be the right thread for questions regarding 4.5" rim?

    I bought a 03YZ250 which has 4.5" rear rim [PO wasnt sure why there was a 4.5" rear rim]. Rim is currently installed with a 160 Pirelli SuperCorsa slick and shows chain rub. Would it make sense to drop down to a 150/60 or try a different brand 160/60 slick. Anyone with experience on 4.5". I will post a pic later tonight.

    I was also told by another friend to offset the rim to the right will help a bit. So if i read it correctly, the axle should be loose, wheel pushed all the way to the front, 6 half-turns loose on chain side, 6 half-turns tight on brake side, then re-adjust slider back?

    Chain Rub:
    Last edited by abhijitz; 04-09-2014 at 01:08 PM.

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    stick the wheel where your chain allows it.... make sure its aligned then tighten down and do the offset....If it still hits a bit go another couple half turns keeping an eye on the opposite side...as mentioned on this thread you may want to modify your chain block a bit and guide.... after a few hard laps the chain does slacken a bit and that is where the rub begins....also pay attention to under the swinger... the chain will also hit there as well....
    Brian # 30


    KTM 450 SMR

    "Everyday is a good day" Just some days are better than others

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    Quote Originally Posted by abhijitz View Post
    I was also told by another friend to offset the rim to the right will help a bit. So if i read it correctly, the axle should be loose, wheel pushed all the way to the front, 6 half-turns loose on chain side, 6 half-turns tight on brake side, then re-adjust slider back?
    NOOOOOO. The sprocket needs to be in line with the chain, or severely accelerated wear to the sprocket and chain will result. The brake disc also needs to run parallel to the brake pads. Offsetting the rim means loosening the spokes on the drive side and tightening them on the brake side so the rim moves relative to the hub. This is something that should be done by an experienced wheel builder or a brave and technically competent mechanically inclined individual with the right level of OCD and proper tools.

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    My 05 CRF has an Excel 5" rear with a Dunlop KR108 170 on it with barely any chain slap. The Upper chain roller was added afterwards, I'm looking for a new KR108 Rear same size. I'll take measurements and pics of the fitment and if theres any chain slap now that the roller is installed. The 170 slick looks close to a 160 DOT depending on the brand. Maybe 160 DOT Bridgestone S20.
    06 husqvarna SMR510-Street/Some Track
    Honda 2005 CRF450 sumo track
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