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A HOW TO : 610 Cam Chain Replacement

191K views 232 replies 61 participants last post by  salty_monk 
#1 ·
Ok guys i just got a nice little package delivery from Dan at Motoxotica. :bowdown:Last week he told me cam chains were out a month on B/O, the UPS man just dropped one off at my house ten minutes ago...

So heres the start of it,
Paid 166 bucks for the following items listed by part number

800058541 --> Husky Cam Chain $95.95
38010019 --> Motion Pro Flywheel Puller (labeled YFM, 35mm X 1.5mm) R.H.$38.99 unless ya want the one from husky which is around $100
800063644 --> Waterpump Gasket$4.99
161503601 --> Valve cover Gasket x2 $2.99 ea

Ill be doing the work on the bike after i finish this damn summer school. Ill be posting necessary tools, procedure, any little tricks i find along the way and small details i would want my feller 610 riders to know... as well as my typical barrage of pictures for those who just dont want to read my babel.

DELIVERY!!!!!!!!!!!!


To be continued...
 
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#125 ·
FYI:

Halls Cycles prices are cheaper than actually listed. Here's my receipt:

Valve cover gasket - $3.50 x 2 = $7.00
Chain = $65.99 (listed as 85.99 on their website)
Water pump gasket = $1.99
Total = $74.98
 
#131 ·
-1 to pennies (at least Canadian ones - see pic.)
-1 to wet rag (at least my rags - see pic.)
+1 to impact gun which got the job done in less than a second.
To everyone wondering what size the thread is on the flywheel, it's 35mm x 1.5, just as the OP mentioned. I bought that exact puller and it works fine. Husky isn't even listed on the models it fits. The nut holding the flywheel on is 24mm. All threads are standard right hand thread. I just took these pics 5 minutes ago, I'm in the middle of this job myself. This tutorial gave me the motivation to do it!
Lucky I did too. The oil reed valve was kinda beat up... but still appears operational. I filed it nice, as the chain had chewed it up a little.
Good luck! I'm about 5 hours in, but I'm taking my time and making sure everything is cool. I hope to be riding it by Thursday evening!
 

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#221 · (Edited)
Thanks for the info on the flywheel puller, I have found 35x1.5 but it is labelled as yz, not yfm, will it still be okay? Edit: Also, forgot to mention, this is not on the new model but the old model, a 2001 bike. Edit: Found this (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTORCYCL...674221?hash=item235ee13a6d:g:xfsAAOSwEK9UCGCc) which is 33mmx1.5 and says it is for Husqvarna but I just want to be sure that it is 35mm and not 33mm. Edit: Also, this website says it is a left hand thread: http://www.huskyclub.com/puller.htm Is it!?

Edit: Found this thread on Thumpertalk http://www.thumpertalk.com/topic/409772-610-flywheel-puller

endoraator said:
Posted April 14, 2007 - 10:17 AM

#4


Today opened my brand new TE610IE to check all bolts and nuts. Noticed that it requires 35mm x 1,5 RH / female flywheel puller not 25mm x 1,0 RH / female as I was advised by some people.
And also from skim reading this thread I found exactly the post I was looking for:

-1 to pennies (at least Canadian ones - see pic.)
-1 to wet rag (at least my rags - see pic.)
+1 to impact gun which got the job done in less than a second.
To everyone wondering what size the thread is on the flywheel, it's 35mm x 1.5, just as the OP mentioned. I bought that exact puller and it works fine. Husky isn't even listed on the models it fits. The nut holding the flywheel on is 24mm. All threads are standard right hand thread. I just took these pics 5 minutes ago, I'm in the middle of this job myself. This tutorial gave me the motivation to do it!
Lucky I did too. The oil reed valve was kinda beat up... but still appears operational. I filed it nice, as the chain had chewed it up a little.
Good luck! I'm about 5 hours in, but I'm taking my time and making sure everything is cool. I hope to be riding it by Thursday evening!
So it looks like the answer is 35mmx1.5, right hand thread. Perfect.

I recall reading from DirtyHucker's cam chain replacement to use a brand new allen wrench -- I guess it is confirmed that this is definitely needed.

Can you tell me what size it is? I was thinking about getting one of the allen heads that is a socket extension.
I have just ordered a set of allen bits with a half inch adapter. One thing I am not sure about is how to hold the cam gear still without putting strain on the cam chain whilst cracking off the allen bolts, and, more importantly, torqueing them up. Any ideas?

Also, I can only assume those claiming the whole job in 5 hours are rushing like crazy, it has taken me eight hours just to get the rocker cover and stator off, I haven't even got near to taking the old cam chain off yet!

Dirtyhucker,

Awesome job documenting how to do this. I got my kit to replace my cam chain. I have not torn things down yet as I am at 8 clicks still, but getting ready.

1. Again, not torn things down, but when I look at the current water pump + gasket it looks like they have a gasket plus some additional sealing (gasket sealant?). Is it only a gasket or do they also add sealant?

2. In your picture of the left side case you show some dark brown gasket sealant where the gasket would go. Is it gasket only, or gasket + sealant?
I would also like to know the answer to this which frustratingly never got answered, I had the feeling it would be overlooked!:rolleyes: I remember on my car there were some things which required gasket+sealant but I can't remember the reasoning for it. Maybe it's time for (yet another) a Google session. Also do the rocker arm valve adjustment nuts have torque settings or not?

Edit: Come to think of it, this too:

My cam chain should be here soon so time to start thinking about rebuilding. Can someone tell me the torques for
RH cover bolts
LH cover bolts
Flywheel nut
Cylinder head bolts(just to check)
Rocker cover bolts
Waterpump bolts
I have a manual but as you know most things are labeled very vaguely. lol oh and any other torques I may have forgotten thanks
 
#143 ·
Stripped cam gear bolts

"OK, now is the fun part. Removing the Cam Gear Bolts. These bad boys are loctited on and it really showed when i was taking them off. HAVE A FRESH ALLEN TOOL!! IF you have an old one with any kind of rounded corners, YOU WILL STRIP OUT THESE BOLTS!! I had to have a wrench on the balancer nut shown in the pict to keep the cam gear from spinning the motor while removing the bolts. Good LUCK!"

Snap-On allen looked good, but I stripped a cam gear bolt. Is there a better way to get this out than welding something (like the now rounded allen socket) to the bolt? I doubt that a vise grip would work. I'm open to any suggestions.
 
#144 ·
I recall reading from DirtyHucker's cam chain replacement to use a brand new allen wrench -- I guess it is confirmed that this is definitely needed.

Can you tell me what size it is? I was thinking about getting one of the allen heads that is a socket extension.
 
#145 ·
Speaking to the uneven mileage intervals between riders and cam chain wear:

The riders right hand has more of an effect on cam chain wear than oil type or quality or tensioner type or quality.

Lots of "brap-brapping" at stoplights, wheelies, or other sudden "drop the hammer" throttle use is hard on the cam chain.

Some of the responses in this thread skeered me so I checked my CCT notches, I'm at 4 clicks gone and 9800 miles on my '07 SM610.
 
#146 ·
Circus, it's a 5mm. I was using a snap-on allen socket, which wasn't new, but looked good.
JonXX, mine is an '06 SM, and I don't do any of the things you say might cause premature wear. I've been riding over 50 years and never had a cam chain problem before.
 
#148 ·
Chain splitter.....

Hi Guys....haven't been on the forum for a bit.....my Husky is sitting at 18,000km now, and my CCT nut has just come undone again.....rumble strip vibration.....AAAARGHHH

Have been trying all day to locate an impact driver from local rental outfits......no luck.....the pnnies and rags didn't work for me either, but the impact driver does the trick to torque the nut down.....however I digress from the cam chain replacement snippet I needed to mention.

My chain was finished at approx 11,500km, and the guy who did the replacement for me split the chain, which eliminated a lot of the headache of splitting the motor. He is a qualified technician that used to work for BMW and KTM and I haven't had any hassles from him doing this.

Has anybody else heard of this trick?:hmmm:
 
#149 ·
quick question to you husky guys. Im new to sumos in general and have heard that the husky's require alot of maintence and keep up. Right now ive got a suzuki drz400s (i know, a wimp compared to alot of other sumos) converted to sm and me and a buddy ride them at least 300-400 miles a week if weather lets us. Mostly tearing up the town and twisties, not alot of hiway cruising. And they really dont need alot of upkeep or maintence. How would a husky compare to these bikes as far as that goes?
 
#150 ·
1. Oil change every 3000 miles (15 minutes)
2. Valve adjust every 3000 miles (1-2 hours -- most of this time just taking stuff off the bike to get to the valves) -- faster if you leave the radiators on the bike but simply pull them out of the way.
3. Cam chain replacement every 6000-12000 miles (depends on # of clicks in your automatic cam chain tensioner) (4-6 hours). Adjust your valves while you are there.
4. Watch your stock clutch cable for fraying
 
#152 ·
14,907 miles, 11 clicks out (specified replacement point). I was at four clicks out at 9800 miles. It went fast. The only difference in my riding is the addition of a 40 mile per day commute down the highway. Hmm...

 
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