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A HOW TO : 610 Cam Chain Replacement

191K views 232 replies 61 participants last post by  salty_monk 
#1 ·
Ok guys i just got a nice little package delivery from Dan at Motoxotica. :bowdown:Last week he told me cam chains were out a month on B/O, the UPS man just dropped one off at my house ten minutes ago...

So heres the start of it,
Paid 166 bucks for the following items listed by part number

800058541 --> Husky Cam Chain $95.95
38010019 --> Motion Pro Flywheel Puller (labeled YFM, 35mm X 1.5mm) R.H.$38.99 unless ya want the one from husky which is around $100
800063644 --> Waterpump Gasket$4.99
161503601 --> Valve cover Gasket x2 $2.99 ea

Ill be doing the work on the bike after i finish this damn summer school. Ill be posting necessary tools, procedure, any little tricks i find along the way and small details i would want my feller 610 riders to know... as well as my typical barrage of pictures for those who just dont want to read my babel.

DELIVERY!!!!!!!!!!!!


To be continued...
 
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#156 ·
I used a short piece of 3/8" copper tube, scrap from installing a sink.
Flattened an end and then bent it in to a "V", viewed from the end.
It deformed very nicely to the gears and came out in one piece.
It was free and available when I needed it.
 
#158 ·
Regarding the hex for the cam bolts. Use a new allen key. Several members have attempted to use used ones and have stripped the head, and that cannot be fun to deal with. Do yourself a favor a buy a new one that fits on your socket wrench.
 
#161 ·


I bought probably the best supermoto ever made - husky 610 08 ;) Because the speedo was reseted? or maby replaced it had 1200km wehn i bought it. Now it has 1800km and it is winter time. Because exhaust valves cover was leaking oil i started to tear down everything...i have to make shure everithing is OK ;) My cam chain has 8 clicks. Since i am checking valve clerance, gaskets,cleaning everithing up... and everithing si apart i will change chain too. Valves cover will be painted red, just as clutch and ignition covers! This article is just beautiful. Probably better than repair manual!

Greetings from Slovenia, Europe! Luke
 
#166 ·
Question.

The timing mark on the cam gear, is that actually on a tooth, or does it split 2 teeth? cause mine splits 2 teeth, and i can't quite get it to sit at the case like the picture shows, but my cam lobes are all facing down... so am i correct, or should i try again to get that timing mark at the case?
 
#167 ·
I did mine several months ago, but I recall it was pretty much like the photo from Dirty Hucker. I think you would know it if you are off by an entire tooth. Perhaps you can rotate the crank until you get back to TDC and check both marks again. Is the chain properly seated on the bottom gear?

Here is a shot from the service manual. Don't think it helps a whole lot but at least you know.

 
#169 ·
I changed mine because I also wanted to do a valve adjustment at the same time. Otherwise I would have waited until 9 or 10 clicks. Mine was at 8 clicks at 9000 miles, and I would guess it would have taken another 2000-5000 miles to get to 10 clicks. If you are at eight I would recommend you wait until 9 or 10 clicks.
 
#170 ·
Changed my cam chain last weekend. Stripped the bike down and brought it over to the dealer and worked on the bike with him. Bought the bike with a worn chain and the difference is night and day. She runs absolutely buttery smooth now :D.
 
#171 · (Edited)
Thanks DH

i have almost finished mine... gosh the chain was so nakered! it damaged reed valve and its screw! tensioner was up to the end and chain was loose.
replaced chain and camshaft (water pump mount snapped) and followed Your idea with red paint(painted waterpump cover) also replaced carb breathers for red ones. tomorrow big day. after the covers will dry install and firing up! smashing. hope all will be good...
 

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#172 · (Edited)
can you guys post photos of the mounted bike w/ red covers?

also, you guys with tensioners with more than 10 clicks that got the reed valve damaged did you replace it or what?

I need to replace my chain ASAP since I'm at 12 clicks already.. I'll need to buy all the parts overseas so I wanted to know if there are any part not listed that I should also buy just to be safe... (I don't want to start the process and have to wait weeks for a small part)
 
#173 ·
can you guys post photos of the mounted bike w/ red covers?

also, you guys with tensioners with more than 10 clicks that got the reed valve damaged did you replace it or what?

I need to replace mine ASAP since I'm at 12 clicks already.. I'll need to buy all the parts overseas so I wanted to know if there's any part not listed that I should also buy just to be safe... (I don't want to start the process thing and have to wait weeks for a small part)
I´ve got 10 clicks and reed valve is a bit damaged. Ill change just reed valve
SPACER. All the parts are 100% listed ;)
 
#178 ·
After cam chain and piston rings replacement, you should let husky run by itself for few minutes, till rings warm up and fit to clylinder...lets say, warm it up to working temperature and then for cca 100km drive it normaly. There should be no problems. When i do engine overhaul i put cca 1dcl two stroke oil in gas tank, for lover friction...
 
#181 ·
Hello again,today i started the process to change my cam chain.The tensioner was 15 clicks out and the chain was very loose.I bought this bike in this condition and i am doing a full service at this time.I painted the footpegs and the stand black powder coat and the exhaust protectors and engine covers also!I want also to paint rims and swing arm!I will uplod new photos when i'll finish it!Sorry for my English guys!I'm a member from Greece!:lol:
 

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#182 ·
Awesome job, simple questions

I've never ripped apart my 610 but I'm having the valves adjusted along with a few other things at a local shop. Do you have to break the cam chain on a 610 to adjust the valves? And what are the valve specs for intake and exhaust? Any assistance would be greatly appreciated.
 
#184 ·
This is a great thread with so much info in it............not that I'm being critical or anything but I think I'm right in saying the OP has got the figure wrong when it comes to the cylinder head nut torque settings (he's quoted 18.4 ft/lbs).

The manual isn't desperately clear (in text or pictures) but I read it as being 27.5 ft/lbs + 90 degrees :hmmm: This is for the four M10 nuts (two inside the head cover and two on the outside on the rhs as you are sat on the bike).

The manual does also quote a figure of 18.4 ft/lbs which I think is for the single M8 nut which sits at the front of the cylinder between the two exhaust ports.
 
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