My wr400 street conversion
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Thread: My wr400 street conversion

  1. #1
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    Default My wr400 street conversion

    I basically wanted to show of my new bike, but I had loads of questions as well.

    To start, here's the bike:








    And some parts and more parts and some wiring stuff which I'll get too soon...



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  3. #2
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    Nice looking set up you got there!

  4. #3
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    I got the same bike that is converted to street now to track, GREAT BIKE

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  6. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by chrispycracker View Post
    Nice looking set up you got there!
    Thanks! It's alright I guess

    Great bike from a great guy! I hope I'll learn to rip it like you can one day...haha

    Now, back to the topic at hand (uploading pictures now :P)...

  7. #5
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    ok, so in order to not slow the entire internet down, I will only post the pictures I feel are necessary, and I will explain the rest...

    Brakes:

    Back brake has what I assume is the standard banjo fitting with the two quick snap connectors on it. The front brake doesn't have the banjo switch? So I will be installing a new one like in the picture, and it looks like I'll have to move the lever assembly up so the fitting clears the handguard:


    Now the brake light has two wires coming from it, in this picture you can see a small hole in the plastic positioned so it enters the rear subframe, I'm assuming that it was put there only to store the wires as they are far too short, and there is nowhere on the frame for them to come out except for 2 impossible 90* turns:


    Headlight:
    3 wires, 1 of which has 2 connectors:

  8. #6
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    Now for the fun part:

    Stuff to know:
    *I plan so have turn signals (but don't have them now, will hopefully have them soon)
    *I plan on eventually running HID's (but don't have them now, a future plan)
    *I plan to run a vapor, but have an endurance currently with no wiring.
    *will be running a horn.

    Right now, on the bike is a kill switch, and a headlight switch (just has an on and off position). The kill switch is functional, and the head light switch is not, obviously b/c there are no lights. Now before I try to explain the head light switch, I have 3 set ups to choose from.

    Set up 1:
    Use the existing light switch that's on there (on and off) and runs to where the headlight will connect and another set of wires which is connected to somewhere I haven't located but assume it runs down to the stator. Assuming I wire this up, I will need to eventually need to put a separate signal switch on there. No "harness" per say, just all the random wires and components I mentioned. There is a rectifier/regulator(?) in the parts box as well as a battery which I will test and determine if it need replacing.

    Set up 2:
    Use the wiring harness in the following pictures that has all sorts of stuff including an intimidating amt of loose connections. The switch that comes with it has an off/low/hi and a kill switch, both of which are on the bike already. Seems pointless, but I'm not sure.




    very end:


    Set up 3:
    The switch is an off/parking(huh?)/low/high, with horn and signal indicator, and a kill switch. It actually looks less confusing.




    end:




    Now I found whaler's amazing guide: http://supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?t=21510 but I don't know where to start. Does the 1998 wr400 come with a 50 watt stator?

    Let me know what you think I should do, I like set up 3 the best because it seems simple, compact, and offers everything I need. Setup 1 however seems partially done?

    Also, what do I do with the endurance speedo thingy, I have some sort of manual I think...just gotta find it?

  9. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by nnamssorxela View Post
    Now I found whaler's amazing guide: http://supermotojunkie.com/showthread.php?t=21510 but I don't know where to start. Does the 1998 wr400 come with a 50 watt stator?
    Hey, my ears were ringing!!

    I believe, and don't quote me, that the stock WR400 stator puts out 65W, and that everything on the bike is AC. Looks like that bike has a regulator, but you'll want to replace that with a regulator/rectifier to convert the power to DC if your planning on using a battery.

    Personally, I'd go with setup #3. It may be a little more work, but it sounds like you might be traveling down the road of numerous confusing switches on your bars. If it were me, I'd want the controls to be set up like a normal bike (#3).

    Other things..

    Hard to tell from the pic, but could you just shim out the handguard with a washer or two to get the clearance for the pressure switch? I'm picky about my lever position, so I'm the guy that would move the other stuff to keep my hands happy.

    Did I mention in that electrical thread about the blue wire mod? Do a search for it on thumpertalk. You remove the a blue wire from one of the harnesses to cut a signal to the CDI that reduces to voltage of your spark in neutral. Why Yamaha wanted to do that I'll never know! Anyways, with your bike starting better, you can use that leftover wire! It goes to ground when the bike is in neutral, so you can use it for a neutral light if you want!

    Feel free to pm me if you got any questions, I'm always more than glad to help!

  10. #8
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    Default For the benefit of all

    We have been going back and forth on the PM, just thought I'd share with the rest of the class (in case somebody is ever looking for the same answers).

    Here is the wiring diagram before and after. It should work, but I'm a few thousand miles away, so we'll have to wait and see!


    After

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    This man is a SAINT! He has helped me so much and put up with all my nagging questions.

    I will try to incorporate a brief write up into my conversion in order to put his amazing diagrams into pictures.

    Thanks again and I'll try to keep you updated.

  12. #10
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    ok so here's an update for today. I have the kill switch working.



    ermmm...this is harder than I thought.

    I have the R/R hooked up and sort of mounted pretty, and I am producing DC voltage, but I only produce about 4.5V at idle, around half of what it should be according to Whaler. I had my brother rev it up while I attempted to read the volt meter, and I saw it get to 7-10V, which isn't much.

    As far as wiring, I think the problem I'm having is trying to figure out what supplies the power to my switch assembly.

    What color wires is the power for you guys?

  13. #11
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    ok, so the wiring of the switch is still a complete mystery to me.

    In the mean time I have freshened up my spare, already cut fender.
    original and spare:


    new:


    I also changed the oil and filter. I'm going to give a brief write up as I could not find one and don't have a manual. Hopefully it will help others:

    First drain the oil out via the bottom of the engine (you might find it helpful to remove the skid plate if you have one on):


    ...and the frame to get that extra little bit out:


    Now remove the 3 bolts holding the oil filter cover on. Sometimes the O-rings might stick or fall out, so keep your eyes open. Holding mine on was two 8mm bolts, and an allen/hex key or whatever you call it.


    Pull the cover off (be ready, some oil will come out) and remove the filter if it didn't come out with the cover.


    Soak up the extra oil and any debris/pieces of piston left behind:
    Mostly clean and oil free.


    Take your filter of choice (I used a K&N "Gold" filter) and reinstall in reverse, making sure the filter is facing the correct way (mine only really went on one way).

    Now you may also want to clean the little in line oil screens. I believe it is the hose to the left of the frame drain, but I didn't know how and figured that my filter was clean enough anyway...

  14. #12
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    More:

    I unsoldered the stator ground wire and ran it to the other yellow wire on the R/R in order to get more power from what I believe is called floating the ground. (A very big thanks Hozhead and Whaler for the info on doing this). Here is another brief "tutorial" in case it needs to be done by someone further down the road (as I could not find info on this).

    ok, so first remove
    The stator/flywheel(?) cover. I do not have a picture, but it is the cover on the left side of the bike, with the wires coming out. It might be easier to remove the shifter lever depending on the bike you have, but it was not necessary for the wr400, only to push the lever down at some point to remove the cover, flywheel, and stator.

    Once the cover is off, it looks something like this:


    You need to remove the big very slippery round thing. (I think this is the flywheel?). This is the most difficult part. There is a nut in the center that need to be removed first. If you have a flywheel puller it's a piece of cake, I even hear an impact wrench will work as well. I had neither. If you have a jelly lid holder/oil filter remover for your car, it might work as well, just be sure to remove the little magnetic pick up from the outside before you try. I also don't have one of those so I just put a ratchet on the bolt and made my own impact wrench using a metal rod and quickly hitting the end of the ratchet handle. It worked like a charm,

    When you remove the spinning thing (clicking the shifter down will help) you are left with this:


    You will need a torx bit to remove the stator. You can see the 3 torx bolts holding the stator on in the picture above. Note: the entire plate that the stator is on is to be removed, do not try to remove only the stator via the 2 phillips head bolts in the center. Here is a picture of the whole assembly in my hand:


    Unsolder this copper wire:


    I then soldered on some 14 awg threaded copper wire to the stator wire. I coated it thickly with liquid electrical tape.



    You now run the new wire down under the coil (there is an opening) and make sure it does not extend in front of the coil where the magnet is(DANGER). It will come out on the other side where you can either fit it tightly along the wire guide or actually inside (recommended).


    Now you need to poke a hole in the rubber "grommet" that allows the other wired to pass from the stator, to the outside. I planned on using a heated needle, but it wasn't bike enough. However, I still used the needle to go all the way through the rubber grommet to act as a pilot hole. I took the smallest drill bit I had and drilled through the pilot hole (make sure the smallest bit is used even though it's much smaller than the wire). Once it's through hold the grommet in the same place and spin the drill moving it back and forth. You will see some rubber come out of the hole. If you don't move the drill back and forth, the drill only penetrated the rubber and doesn't remove it which makes pushing the wire through nearly impossible. Cut the wire to a fine point:


    Now take the wire and rub oil on the tip (there should be plenty of it around) and about an inch or so of the wire. Push it through the hole a little bit at a time (I used some pliers because not only were my fingers oily, but it prevented me from crimping the wire) and presto, it's out the other side!

    Pull the remaining wire through (I had enough to continue up and to the rear of the bike where my regulator/rectifier was) and make it tight and secure against the stator. Place the stator in the engine with the torx bolts, then put the flywheel back on (remember to use "impact" it back on). Replace the cover and tighten the bolt appropriately.

    Refill bike with oil to the proper amount and then run bike to make sure nothing is leaking. (I haven't gotten this far as I am still wiring and debating whether I should clean the little oil screen out)

  15. #13
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    So it's been a really long time and I've been at school....broke, so I have minimal updates. Went home this weekend and put on the rear wheel.

    Some junk I got for me:


    Some stuff for the bike:


    Goodbye knobby burnouts....


    Hello 17"!!


    Eventually I'll get it wired and get that front rim in...can't wait to go home next weekend
    1998 yamaha wr400

    "shes got a tat on her tit and wears low cut shirts... it looks like to pigs crawled up her shirt and are fighting over a corn cob."

  16. #14
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    hell yeah dude!! looking good.. I'll be posting up pictures of my SMR getting done up here within the next week!
    KAAATOOOOOOM

    My business is brapping.. and business is good!

  17. #15
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    It seems so far away! I can't wait to get it finished and to be able to legally drive it on the street...
    1998 yamaha wr400

    "shes got a tat on her tit and wears low cut shirts... it looks like to pigs crawled up her shirt and are fighting over a corn cob."

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    lookin good.

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    Cool project...

  20. #18
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    I just looked over the stator mod again and is what I've been looking for. I have a 2000wr400 that i'm in the process of making road legal in PA. Thanks for the info.

    I like the yellow!!! AWESOME
    Update! 11/3/09! Current: 2008 Harley Davidson FLTR Road Glide, Mirage Orange,(my personal Corvette of Harleys) 2000WR400F w/plates (camo hillbilly bike), 1996 XR100

    Past:2002 1200 Sportster, 1999 BMWr1100rt, 1973 Yamaha DT125, (2)1976 CR125 Elsinore...wish i had those back!!, many mini yamaha's and minibikes

  21. #19
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    No problem, glad I could help! Let me know if you need anymore info on it.

    And I also love the yellow, it's bright, visible, and different.
    1998 yamaha wr400

    "shes got a tat on her tit and wears low cut shirts... it looks like to pigs crawled up her shirt and are fighting over a corn cob."

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    So I'm looking for suggestions for new graphics. The simple way would be to continue the existing pattern something similar to this:


    But then again the part on the rad shrouds is kind of on a tad lopsided and flaking off on some of the edges (easy fix I know), but it might be a big enough excuse for me to start from scratch and make my own graphics. Any Suggestions on what would look good?

    Thanks, feel free to photochop it up!

    -Alex
    1998 yamaha wr400

    "shes got a tat on her tit and wears low cut shirts... it looks like to pigs crawled up her shirt and are fighting over a corn cob."

  23. #21
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    Cool Setup Ima Try Floating The Ground I Have Not Enough Power For My Leds Will This Work On A Stock Wr Stator

  24. #22
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    It should work no problem. I'm pretty sure mine is the stock wr stator as well. Good luck, it's really easy
    1998 yamaha wr400

    "shes got a tat on her tit and wears low cut shirts... it looks like to pigs crawled up her shirt and are fighting over a corn cob."

  25. #23
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    Looking good. I have a plated '98 wr400 running on 17's. Was wondering what you were looking to run sprocket wise? RPM wise my 400 is screaming on the street at 60-65mph. Not sure of the size sprockets I am running as I got the bike from a friend last year and was just enjoying ripping around too much to care!
    Also what size rear tire and brand are you running? I have a 160 pilot sport and i get a lot of chain rub.
    Thanks,
    Jake
    1974 Shovelhead custom
    1983 Redline 600a
    1992 Ducati 851
    1999 Wr400f
    2003 WR250f

  26. #24
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    Ive always liked the yellow and black Yamaha design. If I´m´not mistaken One Industries makes a set like that with a matching seat cover that looks pretty good on the bike.
    Alcohol is like selective breeding. It kills all the stupid cells and leaves the fun ones.

  27. #25
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    That is the One Industries kit, only the previous owner took the tank graphics off as they were spoiled by gasoline. I have the seat cover, but I don't really like the vinyl/plastic sides. I might be remaking them, or I might be completely redesigning a set of new graphics, not sure (what do you guys think would look good?). My front hoop came in today (thanks crfracer), and I should be ordering my spokes on Monday if all goes well. This has been the slowest project of my life....


    Also DUC851, I currently have it geared 16/51, but obviously that isn't very suitable for the street. Should be throwing on a 40 or is it 38(?) rear which I hear make a HUGE difference, but obviously, there is less take-off grunt, I don't really need it too much for the street.
    1998 yamaha wr400

    "shes got a tat on her tit and wears low cut shirts... it looks like to pigs crawled up her shirt and are fighting over a corn cob."

  28. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by nnamssorxela View Post
    That is the One Industries kit, only the previous owner took the tank graphics off as they were spoiled by gasoline. I have the seat cover, but I don't really like the vinyl/plastic sides. I might be remaking them, or I might be completely redesigning a set of new graphics, not sure (what do you guys think would look good?). My front hoop came in today (thanks crfracer), and I should be ordering my spokes on Monday if all goes well. This has been the slowest project of my life....


    Also DUC851, I currently have it geared 16/51, but obviously that isn't very suitable for the street. Should be throwing on a 40 or is it 38(?) rear which I hear make a HUGE difference, but obviously, there is less take-off grunt, I don't really need it too much for the street.
    i feel ya pain i am building a 1000rr from the ground up every part was powdercoated and its almost done 2 yrs in the making I am a turtle but im trying to decide on graphic images and im stuck cause i suck with photo shop ANYONE with photo shop skills wanna crop resize and recolor soime tribal graphcis and images for a Fellow member would be appreciated LOL

    Also I just looked at my r/r and its a baja designs so i assume its got a baja kit so stator should put out 50 watts it dont look like it though i cant get my damn headlight to work the wiring is crudy but tight the bulb is tested i am going to pull all the wires and rewire

    which wire do I connect it the stator ground that i will be soldering to on the r/r (the ground I assume but is that black or yellow on the r/r since my r/r is aftermarket) there are 4 wires out of the r/r ?

  29. #27
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    There should be 4 wire out of the RR like you said, 2 yellow, a red, and a black. Connect the main wire coming out of your stator to one of the yellow wires, and then you float the ground (un-solder the ground inside the stator like in my write up), connect that to the other yellow wire. On my stator the wire you un-solder then re-solder is the plain copper wire above the screw in the pics above (not the gray). Then you connect the battery ground and all of your individual component grounds to the black wire on the RR, and the power wire and positive terminal to the red wire on the RR. This is all pretty confusing, but between this page and Whaler's electrical guide, it is all there.

    And yeah, this is my first bike, so every time I change or adjust something I always worry I didn't do it right. Once I get it all put together I might drop it by a mechanic so they can do the once over. My main concern in the oil, it always seems like there is a couple drops under the bike and that it smells of oil (possible over fill, weeping seals etc), but then I remember that there is a breather hose that just dumps out.

    -Alex
    1998 yamaha wr400

    "shes got a tat on her tit and wears low cut shirts... it looks like to pigs crawled up her shirt and are fighting over a corn cob."

  30. #28
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    thanks Ima give it a try Ineed to do the oil too so Igot to get a filter your project is worth it so fun on the street it should be mandatrory everyone experience a tard I always thought i needed 200 hp on the street how wrong I was

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    Quote Originally Posted by nnamssorxela View Post
    There should be 4 wire out of the RR like you said, 2 yellow, a red, and a black. Connect the main wire coming out of your stator to one of the yellow wires, and then you float the ground (un-solder the ground inside the stator like in my write up), connect that to the other yellow wire. On my stator the wire you un-solder then re-solder is the plain copper wire above the screw in the pics above (not the gray). Then you connect the battery ground and all of your individual component grounds to the black wire on the RR, and the power wire and positive terminal to the red wire on the RR. This is all pretty confusing, but between this page and Whaler's electrical guide, it is all there.

    And yeah, this is my first bike, so every time I change or adjust something I always worry I didn't do it right. Once I get it all put together I might drop it by a mechanic so they can do the once over. My main concern in the oil, it always seems like there is a couple drops under the bike and that it smells of oil (possible over fill, weeping seals etc), but then I remember that there is a breather hose that just dumps out.

    -Alex
    when I connect the floated ground to the other yellow wire do I just solder it in (splice) or do I cut/sever the other yellow wire ?

  32. #30
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    Not sure I follow? Which one are you talking about? I might go snap some pictures of what I did if you're still not sure.

    Just let me know,
    -Alex
    1998 yamaha wr400

    "shes got a tat on her tit and wears low cut shirts... it looks like to pigs crawled up her shirt and are fighting over a corn cob."

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    the 2 yellow stator wires has a factory style connector that plugs into the r/r

    along with a black and red and then the black and red come out the r/r I traced the black it leads to the battery then another large black wire goes from the battery to the frame .DO I want to eliminate this set up ?

    and ground the stator to one of the yellow wires before it plugs into the harness /connectorby splicing into the yellow wire with the ground or just simply cut anyone of the yellow wires from the stator and solder in the ground lead from the stator that I am supose to run?

    A pic should help if you can ?

  34. #32
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    hi hows it going. i was looking at your thread and was a little confused. first u need to know if just getting the stock wr400 stator is all i need to make that swap. do i need any other parts? also, this is a yz not a wr obviously so im sure the wiring is different, how will i go about charging my battery with this yz wiring? can it be done?

    also, why does floating the ground make such a big difference?

  35. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by nnamssorxela View Post
    More:

    I unsoldered the stator ground wire and ran it to the other yellow wire on the R/R in order to get more power from what I believe is called floating the ground. (A very big thanks Hozhead and Whaler for the info on doing this). Here is another brief "tutorial" in case it needs to be done by someone further down the road (as I could not find info on this).
    Since you have to cut the pink wire and ground it to the frame, I just cut the pink wire again directly on the stator, desoldered the copper wire from the stator plate, and soldered that to the pink wire, then where I cut the pink wire halfway up to the 6pin connector, I took the other end (the side running to the stator) and used it to go into my reg/rec other yellow input wire. Works great, but don't think I could have done it without first reading your write up. Thanks a million!

  36. #34
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    wanna sell those old stock rims??

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    Quote Originally Posted by TShep704 View Post
    wanna sell those old stock rims??

    Have stock wheels for sale jayrpm@gmail.com
    What's your email I'll get u pics o bought em for 450 when I bought my 05 wr450
    But never ran em.

  38. #36
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    Quote Originally Posted by nnamssorxela View Post
    ok, so in order to not slow the entire internet down, I will only post the pictures I feel are necessary, and I will explain the rest...

    Brakes:

    Back brake has what I assume is the standard banjo fitting with the two quick snap connectors on it. The front brake doesn't have the banjo switch? So I will be installing a new one like in the picture, and it looks like I'll have to move the lever assembly up so the fitting clears the handguard:
    I'm having serious problems finding this banjo fitting for the brake light on my wr that the entire internet has mentioned. Can someone please submit pictures of its location????

  39. #37
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    http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B002OMNUIG

    This is the replacement for the factory bolt to switch on the brake light. I would only recomend it on the rear, they require a good amount of movement before activating, I would say do a mechanical switch for the front but the only solution I have found there is to use a yfz450 master cylinder.

  40. #38
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    After doing more research I found that part and it turns out my bike does have the pressure switch for the brake light. The PO spliced it and did a hack job...miles and miles of electrical tape. I got it all sorted out but there was a lot of profanity and cigarettes ha.

  41. #39
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    The stator re-wire description here is great. I attempted to run my system with out doing the mod to my WR stator but my R/R only outputs 8.5 VDC. This was using the Pink and Yellow wires directly to my Yellow wires on my R/R. I of course just assumed that it had enough output (my mistake) and I went on a ride yesterday with a buddy because I thought that I had my bike ready for street.

    Long story short is that my lights lasted for about 30 mins on a 12V 4AH battery. So I rode the rest of the day with no lights.

    I did how ever get my bike on a dyno yesterday... Had my jetting almost perfect.

    I will be modding my stator today so I can go and enjoy this weather.

    FWIW I recommend using a front master cylinder from a Honda F3/4. Has the brake light switch built on it and I think that it has a better feel then the stock one. Also it's easy to find cheap knock off ASV levers too.
    Last edited by mn_biker; 04-28-2013 at 09:36 AM.

  42. #40
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    I'm glad this is still around and helping people out. I've tried to leave the pictures preserved so it doesn't turn into another worthless thread. I rarely come on SMJ, and it only randomly sends me notifications of a new post, so there are large gaps where I don't respond...my apologies. I normally get notifications of PMs though, so if I don't respond to the thread try that. I'm also on many other forums with the same username, and normally the PM notifications go through on other forums better.

    I regrettably traded the wr for a ninja 650r that could handle the highway a little better. I miss the supermoto so much, and I plan on picking one up again in the future.

    I still have tons of misc parts for this laying around, including the OEM dirt rims (rims only), a rear hub for a 426/450 iirc, assorted lights and other bits etc. I can throw a pic up sometime of those parts if anyone is interested.

    Ride safe,
    -Alex



    1998 yamaha wr400

    "shes got a tat on her tit and wears low cut shirts... it looks like to pigs crawled up her shirt and are fighting over a corn cob."

  43. #41
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
    Location
    Mid-Michigan
    Posts
    1

    Default SO Glad....

    ....to see this thread is still, at least slightly active.

    I sold my 2000 WR400 last year which I had converted with a Tusk kit....

    ...but....

    picked up a 1998 WR400 Friday that is a bit of a project.

    Replacing a couple seals, and trying to figure out the crazy wiring job someone tried with a Baja Kit. The wiring is there ( I think)...and I think it is a rectifier/regulator mounted in the air box and an empty little tray beside it...maybe for a battery?

    PO or someone removed all the signals etc....didn't make any sense to me.

    First....great to find the info from your build still hanging around and I'm going to try and make heads or tails of it, given my overall lack of experience in the wiring world....

    We'll see....

    I'd LOOOOOVVVEEE to find a Baja Designs install manual for the 1998 WR400....that would be outstanding! If anyone has one...please let me know.

    I will be calling BD tomorrow as well.

    Thanks,
    Chuck
    Last edited by Storyteller; 04-28-2013 at 07:29 PM.

  44. #42
    Join Date
    Jan 2013
    Posts
    12

    Default

    I'm happy that I found the thread. BTW, I completed the mod to my WR426 stator that's in my YZ426 sumo today. I was slightly confused because when I checked the voltage on the output of my R/R I only had like 1.5 VDC but despite that I rode around for about 30 mins and the lights stayed on and the battery checked out at about 12.5 VDC when I got home so I know that it's charging. Solves one of my problems now onto the next one!

    Thanks again for taking the time to do the write up on it.

  45. #43
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    South Carolina
    Posts
    1,119

    Default

    Rev it up a bit to check voltage? You should be seeing ~14v from your R/R at mid to high RPMS. If it is less (or more) something is wrong. Check the wires leading into the R/R and rev it up. Mine was in the 20's for voltage before the R/R worked it's magic.

    -Alex
    1998 yamaha wr400

    "shes got a tat on her tit and wears low cut shirts... it looks like to pigs crawled up her shirt and are fighting over a corn cob."

  46. #44
    Join Date
    May 2015
    Posts
    3

    Post Used this on my 426

    I had to get a r426 stator and do this same mod. Desolder the copper wire and run it to the other yellow wire. This post really helped me in my effort converting, I called ricky stator, baja designs, and trail tech and couldn't fine a sure answer, but this mod helped me out. I run the polisport halogen headlight with the tusk wiring system and I added a 12v battery and trail tech R/R. Just finished running the wire to the R/R, I've got my fingers crossed

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