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690 SMC valve check/adjust (pics + questions)

138K views 197 replies 55 participants last post by  JunkYardJr 
#1 ·
Since the weather is going to be crappy for at least another week, I figured it was time to do the 600 mile valve check on the 690. I removed the 2 front side fairings, the voltage regulator on the right (for access to the right airbox bolt) and the air box.

To remove the airbox, you need to first remove the lid as well as the 4 screws that hold it in place (2 front, 2 back). You should be able to hold the voltage regulator aside to get to the right front bolt. Next, disconnect the 2 or 3 hoses that are connected to the air and the electronic sensor. Once that is done, just loosen the clamp where the air boot connects to the throttle body. You should be able to work it off pretty easily. Now you have the cylinder head cover expose. There are 2 hoses that connect into a metal dealie on the top, unclamp and remove them. There is also an electrical connector that kind of lays on top of the head cover, it helps to disconnect this. You can remove the spark plug while you are at it. I found the tools that came with the bike the easiest to use to do this. Here's a few pics of the plug. Certainly looks lean to me:




Now simply remove the 4 bolts that hold the head cover on. You might have to wiggle the head cover a bit to get it loose, but it should come off pretty easily.

Now you have the valve drive exposed and it's time to find TDC. To do this, I had the bike on a stand and put it in top gear. Roll the wheel forward until the valves close after the compression stroke. There also appears to be a way to identify TDC by looking at the cam. There is a line engraved on the backside of the cam gear that appears to line up with a bolt at the top of the head right after the valves close on compression stoke. Not only that, but the 2 outside holes on the cam gear line up perfectly with the rocker arm shaft removal holes (as seen in the first pic below. That way, you can remove the rocker arms without removing the cam. Can anyone confirm is if this method of the little mark lining up and the rocker arm shaft removal holes lining up is TDC?

Here are some pics.




Assuming that I am at TDC, I went ahead an measured the clearances. There is a label on the frame that gives the valve clearance specs. Both intake and exhaust appear to use the same specs which are .07mm - .13mm (approx. .003in - .005in). Can someome verify if this is the case?. Here's a pic (had to read it with a small mirror, then use photoshop to "reverse" it for pic):



Anyway, here are my numbers (valve orientation as if sitting on bike):

Exhaust
LFr = .102 (.004) - dead center
RFr = .102 (.004) - dead center

Intake
LRr = .076 (.003) shim= .255 - slightly tight
RRr = .051 (.002) shim= .260 - slightly tighter

So my intakes are on the tight side, time to check the shims. Remove the 2 bolts that hold the rocker arm shaft in place (circled in pic):



Here is a side shot of the intake valves:



Remember how the cam gear holes line up with the rocker arm shaft removal holes? I now took the longer rocker arm shaft bolt and, going through the right hole on the cam, threaded it into the rocker arm shaft a few turns. Next, simply pull out the shaft and you can remove the rocker arm. I removed each shim with a magnet and measured them with a digital caliper and got the numbers I listed above. There were printed numbers on the shims, but all I could read was the first and last numbers: 2 and 5 on the LRr shim, and 2 and 0 on the RRr shim. The digital caliper read 2.54 on the RRr shim and 2.61 on the LRr shim so I came to the conclusion that they are 2.55 and 2.60 shims based on the KTM part numbers.

If my math is correct, I will need the following shims now for my intake valves:

LRr 2.30 shim should make clearance .102 (.004) center
RRr 2.10 shim should make clearance .102 (.004) center

Can someone confirm if this is correct?. If so, I'm going to go ahead and order them from the dealer so I can get back to riding!

I am new to shim type valve adjusts so I just want to make sure that I am doing it right. SO far, it's really not much harder than the screw adjust type, just some more parts involved.

Well, I hope that I have done this right and I hope that these pics and write up might help someone else.
 
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#62 ·
Just keep in mind that replacing rocker arms is cheaper than replacing top ends. EVERYONE is seeing bearing failure on these 690s so go ahead and order one of each (intake and exhaust). Getting down into the rockers is no big deal so if you see scoring, you can still button it back up and replace the bad rocker after it ships to you.
 
#63 ·
Shims

Don't know if this has been posted already but it can't hurt. I'm not sure why but the KTM shims (and hot shims, pro-x, yadda) all only come in .05mm increments. You can never get it right in the middle of the spec when it's time to adjust em.

Someone sent me a link to HD v-rod shim part #s, that come in half-steps (.025mm increments) which makes more sense to me. They're the same diameter and apparently a perfect swap. See here: http://paochow.com/forum/index.php?topic=40.0

When I adjusted my shims I found that some of the shims shipped from the factory were odd sizes that they don't sell. Hope it helps, Jeff
 
#64 ·
Another stupid question: I had assumed you drain the oil before adjusting the valves, but is it truly necessary? I ordered the parts to do an oil change at the same time, but I forgot that I had meant to order new screens as well, but I don't want to wait for those to adjust the valves. Thanks.
 
#65 ·
No there is no need to change the oil before the valve check.

I have taken out the engine with the oil still inside. and you can take off the valve cover without spilling oil.

(KTM uses a rubber seal on this cover, zo you dont even have to change a gasket when doing a valve check.)
 
#68 ·
Go with your wallet. There are some really good deals out there on 690's so if you found a deal then I'd do it. I will be looking for another 625 or at least a motor for my current ride and will not likely go 690.

Yes, the 625 also has an issue with the intake rocker roller(well documented if you look here and at ADVRider). However they do not use shim under bucket for valve adjustment(very good and reliable design). It uses a screw and lock nut.

56,000mi 2 intake rollers and 2 cams(due to the roller seizing) but I'm not complaining at all. If it were to happen again I could fix it for $300 - $400. I have a theory on what is happening and I over fill my oil a bit as a result.





Thread hijack complete, back to the 690 valves and issues. :D
 
#82 ·
I have a theory on what is happening and I over fill my oil a bit as a result.
Care to elaborate?

I'm not talking about the arm itself, I'm talking about the bearing captured on the arm. While holding the arm steady I could move the bearing from side to side slightly. When I moved it, I could hear a clicking sound too.
I just got a used 2007 690 Supermoto with 8400 miles and this is what I found as well. Both intake and exhaust rocker bearings were bad. I think I'll be checking the valves and bearings a lot more often than 6000 miles, maybe every oil change.
 
#83 · (Edited)
Care to elaborate?
Sure, the oil is fed to the valve train by being picked up in the sump by the timing chain. It is then flung into the rocker box where it lubricates the parts. Without question, not enough oil is getting to the intake roller bearing. On my 625 the intake bearing is smaller to boot and that just compounds the problem, not sure of the rollers on the 690. Anyway, if you look at the oil sight glass and take into account where the lower sprocket sits in relation to the oil level in the sump you can clearly see that the chain is only just in the very top of the oil surface. When the engine is running the oil is being used in other parts of the motor and the sump is not as full as it was so the timing chain has very little oil to pick up and fling to the top end, Keep in mind there is nothing directing that oil to go where needed up there.

Now, in my opinion, if you are at higher RPM for extended periods....like my blast down the hwy @ 75mph for :15 till I get to town, the oil is being pumped and flung at such a rate that the sump is at a very low level. This situation does not allow enough oil to reach the valve train for extended periods. Add all that together and after a while the intake bearing, which seems to be most vulnerable due to size and location of adequate oil bath, fails.

Run low on oil and the problem would only get worse faster.

So I, in my small little brain, decided to fill my oil to the top, actually just above the top, of the oil sight glass. All has been good since, so I'll wait and see?

Quick history; I've had this bike for 3years 3 months, I've put over 50,000 miles on it. The first intake rocker failed at 19k, then the second failure at 32k. I do not get oil in the air box, as some suggest will happen if the oil is over filled,I also don't(can't) do looong extended wheelies which also add to oil in the air box issues.


And before anyone jumps..she does get warmed up properly before each ride. Something that is key to any thumper's longevity.
 
#69 ·
Thanks for all the help so far. Assuming I'm doing this right, 3 of the 4 valves look OK. Both intakes and one exhaust feel a bit tighter than 10. I fit the 10 gauge in and drag it out, but only by pulling it through, not pushing it through. 1 exhaust valve is super loose though. I can almost push in the 15. That is semi-surprising to me. I'm going to have to replace that shim. Prolly add at least 5 to the existing shim.
 
#70 · (Edited)
I hope you got feeler gauges 5-6-7-8-9-10-15-20-30 etc otherwise it will be hard to figure out whats the actual clearance.

If you got more than 1 valves out of tolerance you might be lucky and be able to swap them

Ussually its the valve seat that is gradually worn (its normal) and the valve clearance gets smaller. If I find a bigger gap, or a gap that grew too fast from the previous service (I keep a log of valve clearances), I would check the rest of the components.

And since its only 2 screws, its very very easy to take out the rocker arms and check for too much bearing play or other wear.

Hope this helps :D


Also put a cloth in the chain even before taking out any rocker arms, I did it first thing, and was a good idea, cause while checking the valves, the tiny screw that holds the gauges together, went loose and luckily landed on the cloth i put around the cam chain. Scary
 
#71 ·
Unfortunately the KTM gauge I bought only has 5,10,12,15,20,25 etc. 5 fits very easily, 10 is much harder but I can still drag in through. They are probably sitting a bit lower than 10. I wonder what is up with the right-side exhaust though. Like I said I can drag the 15 through it. I bought a shim kit from ktm-parts so I should be ok, I hope.
 
#72 ·
I still reccomend you buy a cheap feeler gauge that has the rest of the sizes :D
$5 from flee bay, (no wonder the screw went loose :rofl:)

"Drag the 15 through it", you mean that it needs some force to through, so its like 13-14?

I would investigate a bit to see if anything is wrong, but I wouldnt worry too much. You have any idea what was the clearance the previous time? It could have been 13 (which is within tolerance) and that it grew a little bit more
 
#73 ·
Please do yourself a favour and buy a decent set of feeler gauges.

À valve check should be done properly or not at all. I had the same problem with THE feeler gauges not being precice enough.

I found à set in eBay for €15. Metric and imperial.
 
#75 · (Edited)
I did valve check yesturday with new feeler gauges that has 0.04, 0.05, 0.06, 0.07, 0.08, 0.09, 0.1, 0.15 mm. The 0.08 mm blade would clear all valves easly, but 0.09 would be harder to slide in, but i was still able to even put 0.12mm under 1 valve (it took time and effort and i belive i could do that under all of them if i tryed). I could not put 0.13mm under any valve. With new gauges i still know what i knew with old ones. I still cant say if one valve has 0.08 or 0.12mm clearance, but i can tell that all r above 0.08mm clearance and all are below 0.13mm clearance = they r in spec.
 
#76 ·
you should hold the gauge lightly with two fingers from one end and try το push it in. If it slightly bends its too big. Try with the tip or the side. Combine the two closest (for example 5 and 6) to make 11 (not 7 and 4) and so
on hope this helps
 
#77 ·
Oh, to follow-up from my previous posts, I changed what be the Front right (Fr) shim. It was very loose. Over 0.13. When I removed it, it said 2. 0, the middle number had been worn off. I measured it with a caliper and compared it to some of the other shims I had on hand. I believe it was a 2.50. I installed a 2.60 shim and now all valves are in check.

The roller bearings all had some very minor scoring. I found no lateral play in the intake bearing, but there was definitely a bit in the exhaust. I have to order a new one.

All-in-all though, I was very pleased with how easy it is to check the valves. The hardest part is slipping the airbox back on over the throttle body. I find it easier to check the valves than change the oil!
 
#81 ·
Since the cold weather has me pretty much shut down for a while, I went ahead and did my first valve check at 5,776 miles instead of 6,200. All four valves had at least .004" of clearance. I could actually force the .005" feeler in a couple of them but it was very tight. Also, there were very light wear marks on the intake rocker and the exhaust looked even better. Both turned very smoothly with my fingers. And finally, the cam lobes looked pristine. I was stoked and buttoned her up (after removing the SAS system :D).

I did noticed some chaffing on a fuel line but will post the info in a separate post.

Later,
Swifty
 
#84 ·
That's an interesting theory and something I'm gonna look into as well. Even if there is no way to improve the lubrication of the rocker/bearings, it's fairly cheap replacement part, so I'm not too worried. I just want to come up with a reliable time line for replacement so no further serious damage is done. Thanks!!!
 
#85 ·
I know a guy over on ADVrider who replaces his about every 9k. He believes they should be treated as a service item.

Last time I did mine I bought new arms with bearings already peened in. I also bought a new intake roller as I still had a new exhaust roller on hand. So after the last job I rebuilt the original set and have them set aside for ready spares. When I do my valve checks, if the intake gets loose, I'll replace them. Hopefully that will never happen. She really is due for a complete overhaul.
 
#86 ·
So, I just took another look at my valve clearances/rockers after 7kmi and a lot of high rpm running at NJMP. All my valves were at .004. spot on. I have a few lines on the intake rocker bearing and less on the exhaust. I have new in box rockers, so I took the marked ones out to compare with the new. They felt exactly the same. Just a tiny bit of lateral play and smooth rolling. So, I put the old ones back in and will go another few K before checking again. I can't really see tossing them when they are still tight and functioning well.

The valve check interval seems frequent enough that just careful observation should be good.
 
#87 ·
If you have scoring on the roller bearing, it means the bearing is failing and the cam lobe is dragging across the roller because it is not turning freely. It's a process, not a sudden thing. When I took mine apart at 12K miles, the exhaust was ok but the intake was scored. I could flick the roller, and it felt fine. However, when I pushed force into the bearing (directly at the bearing, not laterally), it bound and felt gritty. These get sketchy under force, and the intake is more prone than the exhaust.

I'm at 18K miles on my 690 and will be cracking it open soon to see how the intake rocker I put in 6K miles ago looks now. Any obvious scoring, and it's coming out.
 
#88 ·
I couldn't make it feel gritty no matter how I applied force to it. I really think some of the marking happens immediately and does not mean the bearing is failing. There must be a design or material flaw in these components along with the bearing weakness.
 
#89 ·
Paab, you may not be at the miles yet for noticeable problems. Also, I wonder if maybe track duty is actually easier on the top end than urban and suburban street riding. Let me ask you this. Have you ever shut your bike off hot, started it back up only a few minutes later, and hard a God-awful ticking from the top end that lasted for 3-5 seconds? Mine started doing this as it approached 12K miles. Vanished after I put the replacement intake rocker in the head and since that was the only hardware change I made, I conclude that the loud ticking after a hot start is the cam lobe skipping over the intake roller.

My bike has gotten a little bit more noisy on warm days, and I can't wait to see what I have under the cover now at 18K miles.
 
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