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2008 WR250X Stunt Bike Build (winter 10/11) Lots of Pics!!!

27K views 30 replies 13 participants last post by  fountaintroll 
#1 ·
Just finished up 10/11 winter build.......

I tried to do everything right & top notch, and got the best of the best in parts! I dropped a ton of dough!!! But luckily found some good deals got a couple hook ups and discounts, and few people that REALLY helped me out with a few parts.


wr250x Stunt Build
  • Dual Caliper Bracket hand brake set up by Full Throttle inc
  • black 636 caliper wit for the FTI dual cal bracket
  • Ebc HH pads for the HB caliper
  • 80” SS handbrake line
  • left Magura 13mm radial master cylinder (anodized black)
  • RSC ez pull (anodized black)
  • Foot bar (powder coated black)
  • Modified subframe to fit the bar
  • Two Brothers Under-Tail Exhaust (stock silencer & spark arrestor welded in, repacked, cut to fit, and riveted mounting brackets to mount to the subframe) (mid pipe - reused the very front of the stock pipe, including the little flapper valve (just weld them open all the way) and weld a small piece in between with the two bros.
  • 600rr idle mod ( Honda part # 16029-MEE-003)
  • 50-Stunt front axel pegs (anodized black)
  • 50-Stunt rear axel pegs (anodized black)
  • 50-Stunt fixed rider peg sliders (anodized black)
  • 50-Stunt pass stunt pegs (anodized black)
  • Zeta SX Motard High bend Black Handlebars (ZE04-6583)
  • Zeta Armor bend / black handguards (ZE72-0101)
  • Pro Taper oversized bar mount kit (02-2822A)
  • Heavy duty 600lb Eibach Spring (size / model # 0800.250.0600)
  • 52 tooth Black Vortex larger rear sprocket (+10)
  • Blue 120 link 520 O-ring chain
  • 12 tooth (-1) front sprocket (2032-520-12T) (not installed yet)
  • Black gripper R/X Step Seat (wrss)
  • Driven folding shift lever (dasc-80)
  • Zeta aluminum skid plate (ZE55-1311) (anodized Black)
  • Honda adjustable clutch cable (22870-KK7-000)
  • 12oclocklabs speedo healer (speedoDRD)
  • Integrated strip/bar style tail light
  • Flush mount clear front signals (eBay from china…lol)
  • Larger front tire - power pilots 110/70/17
  • Larger rear tire - power pilots 150/60/17
  • Reflectors removed and brackets drilled out as strap mounts
  • Front fender cut down to SuperMoto / motard style
  • Extend wires for right hand controls (kill switch & starter)
  • Extend wire for left hand controls (sigs, horns, & high beams)
  • Zeta Magnetic blue oil drain plug (ZE58-1522)
  • Ams Oil 10w-40 Synthetic oil (with new filter)
  • Replace fuel pump
  • Front brake lever (anodized black)
  • Metal Militia FX grip donuts / blister busters
  • Some other Black coated parts
  • Fixed a lot of broken parts
  • And probably other stuff that I forgot…
  • Full wrap & additional decals (My ideas & vision... but Designed & Installed by: Bryan from Landis Graphics in Telford PA)
**Still want to Replace blue chain with a back one, fab up a nice mount for the magura fluid cylinder, and add a few other decals. And possibly install hel SS brake lines and better front brake master cylinder.


started out with a stock MINTY!!!! 2008 wr250x supermoto / motard with 2000 miles.........




the only way to get your tires back home...lol (and yes wheelies were made!!!)


pics of the tear down and build...













a few comparison shots......








more tear down and build pics....













 
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#7 ·
thanks man, action shots should be up by tomorrow.
and thanks for the deal on some pimp parts! all those 50stunt/esd pegs are like a cage, and the stunt pegs give you the best footing position!
The Bike turned out good, Hope the exhaust works well for you too. Looks like my bike 2 years ago. Nice and clean build!
thanks bro, and big thanks for the couple hook ups!!! those were crucial!!! exactly what i needed, and had no way to make it happen on my own!!!!
awesome looking bike.......
thanks, sorry to cut your post short in the quote, too many qoutes here....lol
looking forward to checking out your build! id like to reinforce my bar too, since it snaped a small part of my subframe.
Damn!
Everyone pimpin the shit out of thier wr250x's is driving me crazy :bowdown:
thanks, and yeah theres a lot of sick wr's out there and a lots of great SM riders out there too.
 
#5 ·
awesome looking bike, i need one of those exhausts rieguy lol, i posted up my build in the yamaha section, finally got my roundbar braced and welded in. the undertail just looks so much better.

think its possible to make an undertail from an fmf powercore? im thinkin i gotta have one
 
#10 · (Edited)
action shots next post!!!!
yea love that supermoto stunting is taking off bigtime, lots of vids this year.. :D
i love the exhaust, i want a new undertail exhaust, ive got a chopped up yoshi under there at the mo, it looks real ghetto..
thanks man, i love the exhuast too.. :D
a ghetto under tail is still beter than the stocker or a regular side mount:thumbup:
it was actually really easy to make the braces, i made them out of cardboard then took them to work and cut them out with a plasma cutter but it could be done with nothing more than a grinder.
cant wait to see the progression from everyone stuntin a wr this year.
i dont know how to weld, or no any one else that does :damn:

definitly looking forward to seeing everyone progress, and kill it this year. im really gonna try to work on O's. i can get one full and then it pretty much ends around there. sometimes i struggle with that final turn at the end of the first one. I guess I'm doing alright for the little amount I hqve time to ride, but i cant even dream about the murder some of these guys are thowing down on there SM's. but i def hope to step up my game this season with geting O's on lock and adding some little combo's to em like i can in straight lines. but who knows what will happen....lol
 
#12 ·
heres some action shots taken by my homie ubecrew610
thanks shawn for hooken it up with the camera skills!!!
they were better quality but lost it once i posted em
































 
#15 ·
thanks man :cheers:
you could easily find someone that can weld even if you call a shop or weld repair person, gotta be someone in your area that could do it.

are you runnin a 150 tire or 140, if its a 150 do you think it helps or hurts ya turnin circles and such n what pressure ya runnin?

pix are lookin good man, can you circle on big bikes or just learnin all around
thanks!
Yeah, im sure I could find someone to weld, even if it’s a local mechanic/auto shop. I should just buy one and lean (just not sure I can teach myself). Main reason I haven’t yet is because its not needed yet, and I think the best thing would be a support at the very back. Like at the ends where the bar goes into, because that’s where mine snapped.

im running a 150/60/17 rear and a 110/70/17 front. I heard you can go to a 160, but it doesn’t work as well. idk if it really hurts or helps on O's, i think having more surface area would help, but i wasnt good enough to notice a difference. its not like on my 636 where i was running super low in rear tire pressure. i tried that in the begining, but now im running my pressure pretty high on the WR, I forget the exact, but its pretty close to whats recommended.

As far as circles on big bikes….. I started riding fiddys a few years ago, then got a 636 stunter about 1 year and ½ later. Rode it one season and could catch idle and do foot in bar, seat standers, started to get flamingos…. But never got or even started circles, before the end of the season was over I already had the motard / supermoto and pretty much stopped riding the 636. I did build up a nice R6 stunt bike for the next season over last winter, but sold it after a couple sessions and decided to sick with SM stunting for now. So last years was my first full season stunting a SM.
 
#14 · (Edited)
you could easily find someone that can weld even if you call a shop or weld repair person, gotta be someone in your area that could do it.

are you runnin a 150 tire or 140, if its a 150 do you think it helps or hurts ya turnin circles and such n what pressure ya runnin?

pix are lookin good man, can you circle on big bikes or just learnin all around
 
#16 ·
i havent tried but i think you'll find it easier to turn circles with a 140, 150 makes the tire really round and it may dip in a lot different. I just started doing O's on my 06 636 before i got out of stunting all together for a year but i was amazed at how quickly they came back for me on the WR, first ride out within 20 minutes i started turning O's, these bikes are just so much easier to manuver around compared to a big bike.

My rear shock spring should be in friday so hopefully that goes well and isn't to much of a bitch to change over. i ordered mine from the link you gave me so im not sure if it will come with a special collar or not but hope it works either way. only thing im worried about is it riding like shit on the trails, these bikes are a blast to trail ride with and tear shit up, if it does i'll be standing a lot when i ride trails lol.
 
#17 ·
Hmmm, thats interesting..... I don’t know, when i changed them out i was barley doing quarter turns on the old tires. I wasn’t very good on my 636 stunter and only rode it a little bit. So it was pretty much like starting from scratch with the moto for me. Im far from great on this, but doing better and having more fun! I’m still struggling to get consistent full turns, and haven’t done more than 1 ½ yet…lol. But I’m doing better than I was before. i was thinking the opposite, I thought the 150’s would make circles easier. Idk but maybe im wrong, though. Anyone wanna chime in who tried both????

As far as the spring…. ive never had mine off road other than in the grass, but Id love to ride this thing somewhere other than a lot or street. I think theres still some spring and bounce in it let, so you will probably be fine on semi flat trails. And its not that bad too install, if you have a little mechanicl know how, it’s a piece of cake, just a pain to get the nut off and back on. I don’t think you will need any special colloar, I used everything stock other than the spring it self.
 
#18 ·
yeah you'll get there. i can get 5 or 10 O's but not every try so just working on gettin a little more consistent but i think ill progress a lot this year if i get to ride a lot anyways.

my spring was super easy to change over, when i spun the top spring nuts off the top of the threads i could get the bottom collar off without any force at all, did it with my fingers and new one is a tad shorter so went right back on real easy to. i set my spring to 7.75 inches in length because it was a hair under 8 inches total length. i wasnt sure what the minimum was so i measured my stock one off the shock and it was 10mm from there to the minimum softness so thats basically what i measured for on the new spring, seemed to fit fine with stock collars. im surprised just pushing on the tail with my hand it still has a lot of movement, should be a big help in the lots but not much different for trails, the step seat is stiff anyways so trail ridin is kinda rough, gonna change out my seat when i trail ride so its a bit smoother.

it doesnt lower the bike at all because the nuts take up the difference in the spring length but i did turn my lower block up a turn or 2. might be a few mm shorter than it was lol. feels better tho for my short ass. now just need some good weather to go out and give it a test in the lot.
 
#25 ·
stock rear sprocket on the wr250x is 42 tooth. im running 52 (+10)

stock front sprocket is 13 tooth. i have a 12 (-1) but havent decided to put it on, although i think i will try it soon. not that i need it, bec ause i really like the lenght of the gears right now. but a little extra power and torque or response would be nice when coming around a circle when i strart to dip it too low and need to bring it back.
 
#26 ·
dude you dont even need a 52 on that thing, it may help as your learnin for circles but ive gotten everything ive learned so far on a 13/49 or +7 it bogs right down and comes out of it with barely any clutch once n a great while. +8 on back is perfect id say for all around -1+10 would just be silly on these bikes and ruin your gears youd be in 6th toppin out at 40 i think lol. i shift into 5th goin through town now at 30-35mph. when my +7 is shot im goin +8 but don't ever forsee myself going any higher than that its really unnessesary
 
#28 ·
thats what a clutch is for lol. i wanna go just another tooth or 2 in the rear but i dont wanna hurt drifting anymore, im nearly at rev limiter in first when drifting now. have no problem stalling with clutch tho n slowing down as far as i need to with the 13/49 just a hair more would be perfect i think.
 
#30 ·
what is that thing that comes with the power commander and has a button on it i noticed it under your seat, i just bought the power commander but it had no instructions on that part
i dont have a power commander on here... what i think your referring the 12oclocklabs speedo healer (speedoDRD).... ?
i never really thought i needed one since im using stock air filter and the stock restricter in the two brothers exhaust (maybe it would help a little low end torque).
 
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