06 SMR Valve Adjustment

[sv650_pimpin]

Anyone know how to check and adjust the valves on a SMR 450? The local shop wants 75.00 and since I have to do it every 10 hrs, I think it might be cheaper if I do it myself. Just don't know how LOL

[HOLLYWOOD33]

Originally Posted by sv650_pimpin

Anyone know how to check and adjust the valves on a SMR 450? The local shop wants 75.00 and since I have to do it every 10 hrs, I think it might be cheaper if I do it myself. Just don't know how LOL

Not hard at all one you get the hang of it.........

****There are several ways to adjust the valves on this motor... This is simply the method that works for me***

I just finished putting on the new stator and changed back to the bigger flywheel... It was about time to adj the valves and change my oil, so I snapped some pics...

*Drain the engine oil...

*Remove seat, tank, rad shrouds, rubber mounts for the tank (bolted onto the frame), rad front vents....

*Take out the 4 bolts (2 each side) that hold the rads in place but do not disconnect the hoses...

*Take off ignition cover (need to remove the shifter too)...

*Turn flywheel (using 17mm socket) as described in pics...

*Remove bolt in the front bottom of the case (as in pics), shine a flashlight into the hole to see the notch on the crank... You might have to slightly rotate the flywheel back and forth to line up the notch in the crank perfectly...

*Take copper washer off the bolt and insert the bolt into the case until it's flush (as in pics)... (This locks the crank in the correct TDC {Top Dead Center})...

*Remove the valve covers...

*Adjust the valves using the 1/6 turn method as described in the video...

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWS9RuEQzc8

*Re-assemble everything in the reverse order that it was removed and note the hours on your meter (here's where you go "damn, I don't have one!!!)...

I was able to re-use my ignition cover gasket and valve cover gaskets, but I had new ones in hand just in case (I suggest you have the gaskets before starting this)...

*Re-fill with oil and rip it up!!!

Here's the raised portion of the flywheel... Turn the bolt on the flywheel so that the bottom part of the raised section on the flywheel is lined up with the top part of the black electrical pick-up...




This is the bolt (with it's copper washer in place) that locks the crank in place at the correcr TDC...


Here's the bolt with it's washer (remove this washer to sink the bolt into the notch on the crank)...


Here's the bolt flush up on the case...



Use one of these closed-end ratchet wrenches to take the valve cover bolts off (way easier)...

[J-Seekz]

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWS9RuEQzc8

[HOLLYWOOD33]

Originally Posted by J-Seekz

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hWS9RuEQzc8

That's in my post as well.... Travis is Da Man!

[J-Seekz]

i still dont really understand how he finds tdc just by turning the wheel...
I mean I haven't tried yet, but is it pretty self explanitory once you're in there?
Edit: i didn't mean the flywheel. I ment how travis finds tdc by turning the rear wheel..

[Tfunk]

Instead of using the 1/6 turn method spend the money and but the proper feeler gauge and get it right on the money.

Also why are you doing the adj at every 10 hrs? Seems way to soon to me. And once you learn more about your motor and how to adjust the valves you won't have to keep removing that stator cover or draining the oil either, just use the locking bolt. And one other thing..... see the pic that HW posted of him pointing at the lock bolt? See the other bolt just up on the cylinder below that hose? Use it and drain the coolant, it takes about 30 seconds and you can remove those radiators with just a clamp or two and save your self the hassle of continually bending the hoses and beating up the fins. There is no thermostat in your system either so refilling the coolant to 1/8" inch above the fins in the rads takes only a couple more seconds.

[sv650_pimpin]

Thank you all. I swear this is the best, most informative forum ever!

[matt b]

Hey SV, where u from?

[sv650_pimpin]

I am from Baton Rouge, La.. Now I live in a small town in Mississippi north of Hattiesburg, called Collins.

I am on several forums:

www.rocketmadness.com (louisiana based) - same screen name
www.gsxr.com - screen name im_a_squid
www.msriders.org screen name im_a_squid

[sv650_pimpin]

I recently purchased my KTM. And I am having problems starting it. I work offshore, so I can be gone two weeks. Then I can come home, pull the bike outside and it crank on the first kick. But if i try to start it anymore during the day it wont kick off. The KTM shop by my house told me my valves need adjusting. What do you guys think?

I am going to adjust the valves and change the oil when i get home anyway. But do you have any idea what could be causing this problem?

[J-Seekz]

maybe improper jetting? I'm waiting on getting a jet kit now because I have to kick mine 10000 times to get it started. I seriously have to take brakes sometimes because it takes that many kicks.

[restukey]

I would take out the pilot jet and look at it through a loupe or magnifying glass up against some light. If you see a clear distinct round circumference, good. Otherwise, a fuzzy circle with tinges of other colors red or blue suggest that laquer is building up and causing starting problems. No light shining through some trouble. Make sure that all the pieces: washer, o-ring, and spring are on the fuel screw.

Go over the video posted for the valve adjustment. Much easier than TDC. There are two TDC, so it is easy to make a mistake. If you adjust at the wrong TDC the first sign is it will be very hard to kick, but it is startable. Start with the carb, it probably isn't the valves unless you have a lot of hours on the motor.

[sv650_pimpin]

43 hrs on the motor. Is it tricky messing with the carb. I know absoutly nothing about that.

[KTM Jono]

chances are it will be the valves. 10-12 hours should be the maximum you check your valves if your race or ride that bike on the track at all times.

i have a 2006 450smr and had the valves checked at two hours because there was no hour meter on the bike before me, so i had no idea what i was getting into.

my bike fires up first kick, no issues.

[restukey]

Yeah, at 43 hours you might want to do the valves. If the previous owner was using race gas, then the pilot might need looking at.

After removing the tank. I think I just loosen the carb boot clamp on the carb and the air box side carb clamp. From the left side of the bike, I turn the carb clockwise as far as it will go. 17mm to loosen the carb bowl bolt on the bottom of the bowl, but you can drain the bowl first by loosening the allen head at the bottom of the bowl. Not sure what size maybe 3mm or 2.5. You need a small thin flat head screw driver to get the pilot jet out. It is off to the left of the main jet. Main jet will be the first thing you see when you take out the 17mm bolt on the bottom of the carb.