More:
I unsoldered the stator ground wire and ran it to the other yellow wire on the R/R in order to get more power from what I believe is called floating the ground. (A very big thanks Hozhead and Whaler for the info on doing this). Here is another brief "tutorial" in case it needs to be done by someone further down the road (as I could not find info on this).
ok, so first remove
The stator/flywheel(?) cover. I do not have a picture, but it is the cover on the left side of the bike, with the wires coming out. It might be easier to remove the shifter lever depending on the bike you have, but it was not necessary for the wr400, only to push the lever down at some point to remove the cover, flywheel, and stator.
Once the cover is off, it looks something like this:
You need to remove the big very slippery round thing. (I think this is the flywheel?). This is the most difficult part. There is a nut in the center that need to be removed first. If you have a flywheel puller it's a piece of cake, I even hear an impact wrench will work as well. I had neither. If you have a jelly lid holder/oil filter remover for your car, it might work as well, just be sure to remove the little magnetic pick up from the outside before you try. I also don't have one of those so I just put a ratchet on the bolt and made my own impact wrench using a metal rod and quickly hitting the end of the ratchet handle. It worked like a charm,
When you remove the spinning thing (clicking the shifter down will help) you are left with this:
You will need a torx bit to remove the stator. You can see the 3 torx bolts holding the stator on in the picture above. Note: the entire plate that the stator is on is to be removed, do not try to remove only the stator via the 2 phillips head bolts in the center. Here is a picture of the whole assembly in my hand:
Unsolder this copper wire:
I then soldered on some 14 awg threaded copper wire to the stator wire. I coated it thickly with liquid electrical tape.
You now run the new wire down under the coil (there is an opening) and make sure it does not extend in front of the coil where the magnet is(DANGER). It will come out on the other side where you can either fit it tightly along the wire guide or actually inside (recommended).
Now you need to poke a hole in the rubber "grommet" that allows the other wired to pass from the stator, to the outside. I planned on using a heated needle, but it wasn't bike enough. However, I still used the needle to go all the way through the rubber grommet to act as a pilot hole. I took the smallest drill bit I had and drilled through the pilot hole (make sure the smallest bit is used even though it's much smaller than the wire). Once it's through hold the grommet in the same place and spin the drill moving it back and forth. You will see some rubber come out of the hole. If you don't move the drill back and forth, the drill only penetrated the rubber and doesn't remove it which makes pushing the wire through nearly impossible. Cut the wire to a fine point:
Now take the wire and rub oil on the tip (there should be plenty of it around) and about an inch or so of the wire. Push it through the hole a little bit at a time (I used some pliers because not only were my fingers oily, but it prevented me from crimping the wire) and presto, it's out the other side!
Pull the remaining wire through (I had enough to continue up and to the rear of the bike where my regulator/rectifier was) and make it tight and secure against the stator. Place the stator in the engine with the torx bolts, then put the flywheel back on (remember to use "impact" it back on). Replace the cover and tighten the bolt appropriately.
Refill bike with oil to the proper amount and then run bike to make sure nothing is leaking. (I haven't gotten this far as I am still wiring and debating whether I should clean the little oil screen out)